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knife sharpener suggestion.
- Thread starter klhayes77
- Start date
if you arent afraid of motorized equipment you need to check into the paper sharpening wheels. here is a thread i started on them. last week i sharpened all the knives posted at this link in a little over 4 hours. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=647533
here is the paper wheel thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787
here is the paper wheel thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787
+1 as they say on the Spyderco sharpmaker. About 20 strokes on each side and my knives come out hair popping sharp. I don't know how I went so long without one. Take a look they are very easy to operate as I am in the same boat as you with limited sharpening experience.
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2006
- Messages
- 10,795
If sharpening to you is a maintenance thing, get the Sharpmaker. Simple and basically fool proof.
On the other hand, if you'd like to turn the task of sharpening into an art form, consider richardj's wheels, a 1X30 belt sander from Harbor Freight ($40) and some belts from Lee Valley. Having a good strop on hand is nice, too.
On the other hand, if you'd like to turn the task of sharpening into an art form, consider richardj's wheels, a 1X30 belt sander from Harbor Freight ($40) and some belts from Lee Valley. Having a good strop on hand is nice, too.
Sharpmaker doesn't does convex, and it doesn't really reprofile unless you want to spend ages stroking on the stone.
If you only require touchups then I would recommend the sharpmaker aswell.
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2008
- Messages
- 10,395
The Sharpmaker will reprofile if you get a set of the diamond stones. :thumbup:
Convex edges have to be done on something with a little give. Like a mousepad with sandpaper. You won't find a system that does convex edges unless you get an EdgePro Apex and minutely change the angle each time.
My experience is that, with some of the cheapo knives that I have tried to reprofile, the diamond stones were not enough.
I have found, however, that using binder clips to clip strips of 100 grit sandpaper and 150 grit emery cloth to the Sharpmaker stones worked well enough for reprofiling. Once I ground down the edges to a 30° angle, the Sharpmaker works great.
For convexing, use sandpaper on a mousepad.
I have found, however, that using binder clips to clip strips of 100 grit sandpaper and 150 grit emery cloth to the Sharpmaker stones worked well enough for reprofiling. Once I ground down the edges to a 30° angle, the Sharpmaker works great.
For convexing, use sandpaper on a mousepad.
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Messages
- 608
It might just be me, but I prefer to convex on the sharpmaker. Just lowering the angle back toward the stones will round off the corners. As long as I don't go past vertical, I am ensured that the edge angle will be 30-degrees.
It takes a little bit of training, but you have an easy way to tell what is 15-degrees so rolling the blade back to a lower angle is simple. It's still easier and more repeatable than stones, or even mousepad-sandpaper (which will vary edge angle depending on pressure and blade angle).
Other angles are similarly easy. One third of the angle from the (vertical) blade to the 15-degree stones is 5-degrees. It is very easy (and accurate) to then eyeball if you want an angle greater or less than the supplied presets. I learned in diamond-grading that it is possible to train your eye as a protractor accurate to one degree. With the sharpmaker it is even easier to be accurate.
It takes a little bit of training, but you have an easy way to tell what is 15-degrees so rolling the blade back to a lower angle is simple. It's still easier and more repeatable than stones, or even mousepad-sandpaper (which will vary edge angle depending on pressure and blade angle).
Other angles are similarly easy. One third of the angle from the (vertical) blade to the 15-degree stones is 5-degrees. It is very easy (and accurate) to then eyeball if you want an angle greater or less than the supplied presets. I learned in diamond-grading that it is possible to train your eye as a protractor accurate to one degree. With the sharpmaker it is even easier to be accurate.
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2005
- Messages
- 1,836
Same here. Quick, easy and consistent. :thumbup:
I'm probably in the same category as you. I tried the sharpmaker and it really didnt work for me, for the same reason -- problems keeping a consistent angle. Most of that is inexperience. I purchased japanese water benchstones primarily for scandi grind knives and was really impressed - the knife was sharper than anything else i ever had. I then tried a new case ( i hadnt screwed it up yet) and was suprised i could feel the edge and was able to keep a much more consistent angle. Alll this is getting to my next purchase is probably going to be an edgepro (apex ?) which will keep the angle consistant , at least on moderate sized blades. The apex is more expensive than the sharpmaker, but will be more accurate. Hope that helps.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2008
- Messages
- 4,567
Spyderco Sharpmaker I've had one for 7 years with no complaints.
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2005
- Messages
- 1,836
I'm kind of surprised to hear of someone having that problem. One of the main advantages of the Sharpmaker™ is that its easier to maintain a consistent angle that when free handing with traditional flat stones.
A good set of Japanese water stones will put an amazing edge on a knife, but a set is generally more expensive that a Sharpmaker™, messier, requires more maintenance, and IMO requires significantly more skill to use.
IMO, if you are "in to" the process of sharpening your knives, a set of water stones are a great investment. If you are just a knife user who wants to put a good edge on your knives without too much trouble, I think the Sharpmaker™ is a much better choice.
YMMV of course.
