Knife Sharpening,,, Work Sharp? Wicked Edge? Or EdgePro Apex?

Thanks for the offer Will. I think I'm going to send this one back to Andy to be re-edged.

I'm normally a sandpaper and strop guy. I think I'm gonna stick to that method.
 
Joe Duder said:
Thanks for the offer Will. I think I'm going to send this one back to Andy to be re-edged.

I'm normally a sandpaper and strop guy. I think I'm gonna stick to that method.
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No worries Duder -- I'm sure Andy & Co. will make it good as new!
 
Can't speak to any of these. I have a Sharpmaker, double-sided stone, sandpaper and strop.

After reading this, looks like I will stay away from the Work Sharp and the Lansky.
 
McVeyMac said:
Practically speaking, you are absolutely correct. At 57 y.o. and a bunch of knives in all sizes and configurations, I would hope to live long enough for it to become a practical problem on at least one of them. However, I will likely not live that long. I was taught that the blade should be thinned slightly at each sharpening. Of course, this is only applicable to a flat or a hollow ground knife if sharpening with a stone. Having said this, I do thin all of my flat and hollow ground knife blades when I sharpen them in this manner. This ensures a usable edge geometry over the life of the blade.

Your approach will eventually get into thicker portions of the blade such that the cutting edge (19-20 dps) will get significantly wider to the point of effecting performance, albeit it will take quite a long time. I am just curios if anyone has tried thinning a convex ground knife using the sandpaper/mouse pad approach.
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This is why I like brkt. They zero grind their convex so when you strop/ sandpaper you are preserving the geometry of the whole blade.
 
As I said earlier I can't speak for sharpening systems because I've never used them and I have zero experience to base it on. I just have a KISS mentality. I enjoy sitting back on weekends and touching up my blades. I have no desire to worry about angles, set up, degrees, mirror edges and so on. I respect the current sharpening knowledge but I simply use a strop and compound. I use a mouse and sandpaper for damaged edges. To me sharp is sharp and dull is dull. I can shave hair with my edges, I can field dress multiple deer on the same edge, I can cut anything I need to and I can slice paper easily if it's important. I guess my system is antiquated and my thinking behind the current technology but for the cost of a field strop and some compound I am very pleased with my edges and their performance for my needs.
 
VANCE said:
Damn duder
Oy vey
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I know it brother. It's really not that bad. The pics make it look worse than it is. There's hardly a recurve towards the tip if any at all. The stones took some steel of higher on the bevel giving the appearance of a recurve, but when held up to the light, I have to strain my eyes to see one. There is one towards the guard though. You'll be seeing it soon enough. Careful, this thing is uber sharp.


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I was actually just coming back here to post- "Unless I'm in denial about it being there...":D

Oh well, it is what it is. Lesson learned. It's not the first or last thing I'll jack up in this life.

[sigh] Whatya gonna do?
 
dcycleman said:
This is why I like brkt. They zero grind their convex so when you strop/ sandpaper you are preserving the geometry of the whole blade.
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+1 for full convex edges! That's one of the reasons that my BRKT Aurora is still prominent in my belt carry rotation.
 
I've honked up several knives on a worksharp. The guides do not work well at all for knives with thick blades and I rounded off the tip of just about every knife I've run through it. I use a sharp maker along with a ksf strop now and much happier with the results. I'll qualify that by saying that I've never sharpened a ff and even the blind horse knives have only needed the strop.
 
Michael,

Since sharpening the Kephart that I had sent to you, I have backed off on the acuteness that I use to sharpen o1 and Andy's knives. I have found that the edge that I sent you on the Kephart will not stand up to hard use, but you may have already learned this to be true. It has a slight tendency to roll. What I described with the Lone Star I find to be very servicable and holds up to use very well. However, if it is going to be a really hard use knife, slightly more obtuse at the 19-20 dps range is called for. I sharpened the Kephart at 30 (15 dps) degrees inclusive. FWIW, I find 30 degrees inclusive edges to hold up better on CPM 154.
 
My experience with the Worksharp (KO) has been great. I've sharpened about every kind of blade/steel imaginable - no problems. I'm careful (like with anything) and use it according to the directions. I finish up with a strop. It seems to be getting a bad rap here and I wanted to post my positive experience with it. That said, I don't care if you use one or not... it's just a tool.
 
sonorantree said:
My experience with the Worksharp (KO) has been great. I've sharpened about every kind of blade/steel imaginable - no problems. I'm careful (like with anything) and use it according to the directions. I finish up with a strop. It seems to be getting a bad rap here and I wanted to post my positive experience with it. That said, I don't care if you use one or not... it's just a tool.
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No issue that the curved tips are my bad. And if I could hold an angle, the fact that thicker blades don't fit within the guides very well would not be an issue for me. Just sharing my experience. My 2 thickest blades (a TOPS and a USAF survival knife) have had all the blade coating stripped off about halfway up the sides of the blade from trying to get them to work in the angle guides. I just want people to know that. Both have been touched up by the sharpmaker and a strop to be at least somewhat usable.

I'm probably one of those people who should send my knives somewhere else to get sharpened. But even 30 years after my last year as a boy scout I still think I can do it if I'm just more careful next time. :)
 
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