knife test to destruction VIDEO

Excellent results. I lost count but it was 6 or 7 - 90 + degree bends. Was that stag handle material? Nice contrast between the forged flats and polished bevels. Can you give an idea of the geometry, ie spine thickness, final sharpening angle, polish of the cutting edge, etc? Also, you didn't actually say in the video, so I'll ask. Was it differentially heat treated?
 
it was 6 180 s handle was American elk,it was around a 1/4 thick and 9 1/2 long with a Moran edge.. as far as angle i generally go with what feels right you can get to scientific when your doing this and the art is gone....i hardened it like all my blades hard edge soft spine....
 
That is really Impressive and it looks like a knife that you could stake your life on in any situation. That Bad Boy is just not going to break or let you down. Very nice Lon and the fact that its 1/4" thick and did'nt snap while all that bending is just too wild. Thank You for the awesome video and your time. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
Nice knife, nice test.

I suppose that bending test shows that 5160 is good for spring steel. :)
 
How intricate was your heat treatment? Did you normalize (1-3 times), anneal (1-3), quench (1-3), and temper (1-3)? Was there any dry ice or liquid nitrogen involved? How about interupted quenching or marquenching? Was it fully hardened with a soft back draw, heated at the edge only, or fully heated then edge quenched only? I know these are detailed questions, but I'm trying to figure out the procedure to get that kind of performance. Actually, I'm trying to figure out the minimum effort to get that kind of performance. Can it be done with one of each of the above thermal cycles, or do you need all 12? Can some be removed or reduced while others absolutely must be present?
 
me2 the heat treat dosent start after the knife is forged its part of the forging process each time the steel is at temperature and falls below critical its a thermal cycle when i harden i only get the edge area to critical and i quench the whole thing not just the edge i don't use a oven just the forge and i temper in my kitchen oven....yeah its kinda cave man but you see what kind of results i get...least not forget i started pounding on steel when i was 13 making nails out of scrap and all the tooling i needed to do ornamental iron
 
Hi Lon -

Impressive!

Whatever you are doing, it sure does work.

Thanks for the video - I enjoyed watching it.

best regards -

mqqn
 
Sweet!!!!!!! :thumbup:

If you keep making knives like that you will be very busy before long. :D

Great job. :D :thumbup:

5160 is awesome stuff when it done right. :)
 
i sure hope i do get busy SOON! i do have a knife in the for sale area...made with the same steel and HT the same
 
Some companies rename a common steel because of their proprietary heat treat, this though is the first instance where I think it's appropriate. How 'bout LH516000 :thumbup:
 
me2 said:
So how many heats to you think it is from stock to final forged shape?
Click to expand...

wow now thats hard to say...i start off with 3/4 inch dia. round bar and forge flat then draw the edge bevels...more than 20 i would guess on that knife
 
Have you done any fracture grain size comparisons? Then again, that may be tough to do since you start with such a large (relatively) bar. Anyway, it would be interesting to see the difference, if any, between a bar quenched and broken after say 5 heats, 10, 15, etc. Then compare this to your final finishing heat, then again after hardening and tempering. I like David Boye's description best. He says the fracture should look like fine gray velvet, not gray salt. The fracture surface of my first home heat treated blade looked like a pile of dice.
 
yeah ive looked at the size of the grain after a quench full hard and thats one way to know if your at critical when you go in the oil..you should see nothing but smooth looking steel if its rough your too hot
 
Impressive. :thumbup:

Two words though: safety glasses.
 
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