How To knife throwing my way...

honorearth

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20170526_173313-1612x1209.jpg I have had a couple people here ask me for tips on knife and sword throwing so I put together this thread to share my style.
first off in my opinion forget about the fancy "no spin" technique, it has no serious power behind it because of the soft way you hold and throw the knife. (no offense to any who might like this style)

Another way is by the blade which used to be my preferred method with only a half rotation from leaving the hand to hitting the target. This can be a very powerful throw and accurate as well but dangerous to the thrower if mistakes are made. I had a friend tell me i would seriously cut myself if trying throw by the blade in a defensive situation and throwing quick under pressure. This kept bugging me, as I was out practicing I tested his theory by lining up a bunch of throwing knives and then quickly picking them up flip from handle to blade and throw. after about 15 - 20 throws sure enough I caught the knife wrong and as it left my hand it laid open my index finger completely from palm to finger tip (which hurt pretty bad with the jagged chipped edge on the throwing knife)
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So I decided to perfect handle throws with as much power behind it as possible, my thinking is that you want to be able to stab or slash with a knife and then throw it quickly without changing your grip on the handle.
-To start hold your knife with a good firm grip as though you are going to chop something.
-when throwing your knife throw as if throwing a rock with a good strong overhand throw. when you release the knife still hold onto the handle a little so it is forced to pull out of your hand(very important) this gives it less spin and more force.
-you want the knife to complete one full rotation between you and the target.(the longer the arch your arm makes the slower the rotation. so if you can stick a knife at 10 feet with a normal throw step back to 15 feet and try throwing with your arm fully extended to create a wider arch and you should be able to stick it with still only one rotation. likewise a shorter arch to your throw and you can stick it at closer range with one rotation.)
-axes and swords( or Wtf's) take the same approach but the release point is a little sooner than a knife. (knives usually release as you are pointing at the target axes and swords release pointing a little above your target)
I suggest getting a few cold steel true flight throwers. they are cheap but strong enough( I have only broken 4 in about 6 years most other throwing knives only last 6 days before breaking )
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here is a couple prybars I cut and ground to make great throwing knives
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so far the best busse and kins for throwing are
-rodent 6
-tglb
-scrapper 5
-boss jack
-hognose war sword
-battle shark
ect..
honestly most busses are perfect because of the balance it is the pommel shape that can make it more difficult on some models.

any questions?
 
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This is gold, thanks mate.

I've been throwing my TGLB since I saw the vid of you throwing your Hognose Warsword. I didn't look up how to or anything like that, just got busy. After a lot of failing I can stick it about 50% of the time but I don't have a huge amount of power in my throws and the knife makes multiple roations. Also, i use a variety of grips from handle to blade at different distances to make it stick. Going to throw (pun intended ;)) all that out the window and give your technique a shot.

Thanks again!
 
-Another tip for knife throwing is right before and as you release the knife act as if cracking a whip or towel, then let your hand stop and the handle pull free. This will increase your accuracy as well as force.
-With axes and swords you do more of a follow through with your arm and just work on finding the sweet spot for your release.
 
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Nice tips...can't remember the last time someone gave such clear advice on throwing...THANKS!

Have you ever busted the tip on a Busse or Kin throwing it?
 
I started out as a knife knut because of throwing knives. I actually had a neighbor who taught me when I was about 11. Now here I am a BF regular with a propensity for throwing from the handle too. Way out of practice but this is a great excuse to own one of the Busses mentioned.

Thanks for the thread.

Ray
 
Nice tips...can't remember the last time someone gave such clear advice on throwing...THANKS!

Have you ever busted the tip on a Busse or Kin throwing it?

no broken tips but when i first stripped my battle saw and the handle ( and coating under it) was still wet from acetone, i decided to throw it the pinky guard caused the throw to be off when it caught on my finger the knife hit handle first and knocked a scale crooked about a 1/4". luckily I was able to clamp it back in place and press the handle tubes back down and all was right in the world..... well at least in my world
 
I throw knives as well. Mostly Cold Steel and recently my KDSH. All of the above advice is very helpful and almost dead on to my advice, If I were to give it. Honor, this is a great thread...thanks brother.
 
I throw knives as well. Mostly Cold Steel and recently my KDSH. All of the above advice is very helpful and almost dead on to my advice, If I were to give it. Honor, this is a great thread...thanks brother.

you should pick up a condor double bit throwing axe think they are about 40$ they stick almost any way they hit so it can be thrown from very far away. mine has held up to lots of abuse and still going strong 4 years later
 
Thanks for all the advise, before its tome to send my NMFSH to Josh or Ben for sharpening ill try throwing it.... or nxt time im on the Mtn
 
Anyone know if theres a certain blade size thats better to start throwing with ? Smaller or larger Busse"s ? TG, ASH-1 LE or NMFSH, or Skeleton Key ? Lol
 
Anyone know if theres a certain blade size thats better to start throwing with ? Smaller or larger Busse"s ? TG, ASH-1 LE or NMFSH, or Skeleton Key ? Lol
6" or more works well for me. I really like my rodent 6 for throwing the handle is shaped well for the task.
tglb is good as well. its nice to have some good weight to throw starting off.
lighter weight blades like the skeleton key will work great too just put a little extra flick in your throw (adds more force) and slide your index finger down the handle as you release (this will slow the rotation.)
 
Awesome thread!

For me the half turn method works very well but also almost killed me already twice yet when the knife bounced off the target and came back with even more speed.
It is quite interesting how the perfect distance can vary depending on the exact technique. I usually rest my index finger at the back of the blade. If I want it to turn later then I put my whole index finger at the back of the blade and the fingertip usually almost touches the handguard. If I want it to turn earlier then I put a smaller part of the index finger on the back of the blade. That way it turns almost exactly like the handle throw. It can really make a big difference.

I am currently trying to master the one and a half turn throw at like 6-7 metres.

Not throwing any INFI. I have a KDSH (which works a bit different, of course) and besides that one I only throw those cheap Glock Austrian Army knives (without the sawback, of course).

The Cold Steel throwing knives are quite okay but they are so soft (1055) that they will bounce very easily. The Glocks are 1080 or 1085 if I am right and I did not manage to completely break one yet. No dedicated throwing knife but really well balanced and quite cheap.
 
no spin has all the power if you do it right. spin throwing is good too, but works best from prescribed distances.
I have to agree.

No spin has several ways to do it, and to do it right and HARD is freaking....not easy.

I'm not expert at it, but I do know I can manage to sink a knife in as deep or deeper using no spin as and other kind. But again, not easy.

MY technique, and I've tried others, keep coming back to this one....butt of handle in middle of palm, MIDDLE finger on spine wind up and over head throw with a little early release, twist hips, full body motion, and MUST be smooth, the only thing you do (no wrist flicking, pushing the spine, etc.) is simple let go with the 2 fingers gripping--thumb and RING finger.

works for me.....half the time, hey, my distance still is pretty short.

I will also add that you are dead on with spin throws, you have to be a specific distance. whereas a major advantage of no-spin is the distance is much more forgiving.



This dude gave me the technique at the beginning, and at the end of the video, he does a couple no-spins and, to me, INSANE distances.
 
Made me laugh too, as I always practice in a gravel parking lot with rocks behind my target and a car within the bounce zone :).
He can make it stick though and with confidence.

Ray
 
Ive been throwing a older shbm lately. It's going well so far. The ttkz is a tad tough but I look cooler :cool: throwing it.

Can someone pm me how to post a video? I have a few forum keeps saying file is too large to post tho. Thanks in advance
 
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Thanks. I am terrible throwing and would have never considered the busses models for throwing.
 
Ive been throwing a older shbm lately. It's going well so far. The ttkz is a tad tough but I look cooler :cool: throwing it.

Can someone pm me how to post a video? I have a few forum keeps saying file is too large to post tho. Thanks in advance
First you have to upload video to youtube. Then when posting dont try the upload file button use the small button that looks like film next to the + sign and happy face in the above the text window. Hope this helps.

As for the no spin, I still can throw harder and more accurate my way. For me I can throw a knife (while holding it solid by the handle ready to chop grip) as hard as I can throw a baseball or a rock (in other words with all my strength) and have ot stick 1.5 - 2 inches into an oak log. Plus lets see these no spin techniques on a large blade, sword or cleaver. I prefer a technique that works for all sizes from scrapivore to hognose war sword.
 
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