Knifemaking PITA moments ;)

I think my biggest one is using the mini files too much on one side of the tang slot on guards.

Somebody gave me a good tip for when that happens.
Lightly tap next to where to much material is removed with a ball peen hammer untill the slot is narrowed again.
Then flatten the face with sandpaper on a flat surface.
It saved me a few times from starting over.

My pita is doing things in the wrong order. like finishing a part and then having to sand it flush with an other part.
I just had to much other stuff on my mind. That makes me make mistakes like that.
 
JG, I used to grind slots in several directions with a Dremel cutting wheel in my tangs and drill some extra holes too. I even started using a Forstner bit to make shallow holes in my scales and use a Dremel tool to widen the bottom of the holes. I sometimes put in a 1/4 inch piece of 8-32 screw thread for holding power. I was a complete rube. Why? Because I did not consider the epoxy first. I was using a 5 minute epoxy that was next to worthless. I now use G-flex by West Systems. Also when someone wants a knife to do really hard work I use Corby bolts or Loveless bolts. Lastly, I now save my old 1/4 inch drills when they wont cut a clean hole anymore and I keep a pile of them on the workbench. I don't have time to sharpen them but I use them to drill an extra hole or two for the epoxy to flow into. If your still PO'd drilling extra holes then try the Loveless or Corby bolts and stress less! Larry
 
You're awesome Stacy, thanks! I've been just grinding on my tang and not the scales. Do you do both the tang and the scales/handle material?

Generally, yes. I always do the handle...I usually have holes in the tang....sometimes I remove some of the center of the tang.
 
I can't believe no one has mentioned hand sanding. I usually make knives in batches of 3 or 4. When I get to the hand sanding stage, I sometimes start another batch. Then I get that to the hand sanding stage and, well, start another batch. Then I have 8 to 12 knives that need hand sanding. It isn't like there is much to screw up with hand sanding (other than the occasional fish hook), but it is the part of knifemaking that I enjoy the least. I spend anywhere from 45 minutes to a couple hours hand sanding knives depending on their size and what grit I want to take them to. I would love to hire that portion out to someone at minimum wage, until minimum wage goes up to 13 bucks an hour! I like the end result enough to do it, but just barely.

I get back logged at hand sanding too. It's so much more fun to grind out or forge a blank than it is to sand for a couple hours. :grumpy:
 
Thanks for all that info. I'll definitely look into that. I have the DD 750X. It is a good bit of kit for sure.

My pleasure, i4Marc.

Since I'm an on-again-off-again maker, I never really develop significant skills in finishing. I can make a very well working knife, but one which does not have a "craftsmanly" finish. One specific area of frustration was getting ripples in the surface when cutting full flat grinds using my belt *sander* (a 6x48, an indispensable shop tool, but sub-optimal for knifemaking). I'm in the process of building a proper grinder, so we'll see if that improves my craft.
 
Stacy/Larry, thanks a bunch gents, I really appreciate it. I might have to try G-flex. I've been using 30min(their slowest) epoxy from TruGrit and it has worked pretty well so far.
 
For me the real frustration comes during sheath-making. After glue up, I seem to have a hard time making the holes so that both sides of the sheath look nice. The front will be straight but the back holes will wander. This is because the sheath is not flat and so I have to estimate the angle.
 
Thanks for the tips and tricks folks!! :)
I'm happy this thread is going on, and that i'm not alone with troubles ;)
May our pita moments become a blurred memory of the past as we progress in our journey!!!

Ste
 
For me the real frustration comes during sheath-making. After glue up, I seem to have a hard time making the holes so that both sides of the sheath look nice. The front will be straight but the back holes will wander. This is because the sheath is not flat and so I have to estimate the angle.

Work the leather wet, very wet.
Start the holes from both sides and have them meet in the middle. That's how I do it
Use an awl to puncture the hole, not the needle that holds the threat
 
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