L6 Question

J

JAMerolle

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Jan 14, 2012
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233
How come top brand knife manufactures never use L6however it is one of the top steels recommended for knives.
 
Cuz, real L6 tends to work harden and isn't even remotely rust resistant. Costs a lot more than something like 1095, too. Cost is probably the main reason, I would think.

I would recommend L6 for anybody who wants a tough as nails knife that will hold an edge a bit longer than another super tough steel(5160).
 
I have a Koyote knife made with L6--maybe old saw steel? It takes a keen edge and works well.
 
I like it but as mentioned it is a bear to forge. I am still learning but its a great steel just hard to work with. 8670M which is similar (not the same) is a nice steel as well, Ive got a knife from that stuff and like it.
 
Gerber used to make the Mark I's and II's from L6 before the went to stainless in around 1980-81.
 
Disregarding how people feel about the grinding/forging/rusting -

L-6 is an alloy that is specific. .70C;1.5Ni; .75 Cr; .25-.80Mn; .50(max) Si; and sometimes a tad of Mo. The modified alloys sold as L-6 can vary in Ni from 1.25 to 2.00%, and the Cr can vary from .60 to 1.20%. Some has vanadium,too.
Because of these variable alloy mixes, many steels are similar to L-6, and are lumped in with it. Others aren't really all that similar, and are lumped in with it anyway. Many suppliers just sold whatever alloy they carried as L-6. Admiral used to sell you Champaloy as L-6, other suppliers sent 15N20, others used a variety of alloys as L-6. Add to that the common lore that saw blades (from band saw to sawmill blades) were commonly called L-6 steel. I considered this as true until I learned better. Today, saw blades can be anyhing....and I mean anything. Making a knife from a saw blade is almost always a poor choice.
Thus the reputation for L-6 being inconsistent in quality and hard to HT became a reality.

Today, knifemakers who want the properties of L-6 steel use 15N20. It is reliably going to be the right alloy if purchased from a good supplier who can provide analysis papers. The old standard mix recipe for damascus was L-6 and O-1. This got a good contrast and was compatible in carbon content. 15N20 and 1084 has pretty much replaced that now.
Those who desire to use true L-6 usually get it from one source, and have analysis sheets on it so they know the exact make-up of what they are using.

I get my 15N20 from Aldo. Haven't had a problem.

Added note:
A while back, most of the ABS test knives were made in L-6. That has pretty much gone away because of the lack of clarity on what is and isn't L-6.
 
I ordered my l6 from Aldo is that the same thing as your 15n20 from Aldo. P.S Aldo if your reading this thread I still got to get that 20 to u for the shipping of that l6 sorry about that
 
I am not sure about Aldo's recent batch of L6 but I got some of his older stuff. Great metal but as described it is a bear to forge and the scale you get on it is some of the hardest I have scene in my very limited experience. I have talked with Kevin Cashen on the HT of it and have gotten very good results doing in house HT with my forge. I am not sure which one Aldo is getting but generally there are two makers of true L6 for the most part Carpenter and Crucible. From talking with Kevin who talked alot with Aldo he was saying Aldo's is more inline with the Crucibles mix of L6. It is very different from 15N20 which Kevin described as being more like 1075 with nickle in it.

The HT and handling he helped me with has given me good results in the few tries I have done with it. Pretty much 1500F with a soak (I do mine about 10min) then a quench in oil. Ive used canola oil but he was saying just about any quench oil will suffice. Followed by a double temper for an hour or two each. I did 400f on the temper but it was still a little hard and I think next time I will do around 450f for the tempers.

The drawback to this steel is it is hard to anneal properly. It has almost an air hardening effect. Vermiculite and what not doesnt seem to help much. Forging is also pretty rough as it is slightly work hardening as mentioned before so you gotta keep it hot. I was having problems with that until I got some direction from some guys here. Forging seems to be around the 1950-2000f or so area, atleast thats what I have luck with. Quick to the anvil, quickly hammer then back in the forge.

With the above recipes I have gotten a very good really fine grain structure, I am still learning though and am thinking of the next couple projects I have done with it sent off for hardness testing to see exactly where I am going with it.
 
Aldos L6 does have Moly..I remember him telling me when I bought it..I will air harden, enough that a band new file wont scratch it at all..Ive seen no less than half a dozen spec sheets on saw blades and have only seen one that came close to L6..The others were akin to 1075 plus 2% nickle and some were 8670M..One was even like 1095 with 2% nickle..
People(myself included) at one time had a bad habit of calling anything with nickle L6..It just aint so..
 
Which is a better grade of l6 crucible or carpenter when it comes to chopping wood ,ice and frozen food and cutting leather cow hide. My guess is there is no difference
 
Crucible's L6 will retain it's hardness a little better than carpenter's through
the temparing cycles due to the .30 % (or so) Moly.
 
quint said:
I like it but as mentioned it is a bear to forge. I am still learning but its a great steel just hard to work with. 8670M which is similar (not the same) is a nice steel as well, Ive got a knife from that stuff and like it.
Click to expand...
How's the wear resistance on the 8670M? At least as good as 1095? O-1 maybe?
- Thanks!
 
JAMerolle,
In most similar steels, once heat treated and tempered to the same hardness the average user in the field will not be able to tell the difference in cutting ability. Cutting is partly due to the steel, and largely due to geometry.
That is not to say that one does not have an advantage over the other in some different aspect. Rust resistance, edge holding,ease of attaining a polish, cost and availability, etc. all don't affect the cutting ability, but greatly affect which steel you chose.

How did your big L-6 knife come out, BTW.

Also, you still haven't filled out your profile info - location, interests, occupation, age, etc.
 
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