Law Enforcement Knife Contest

I knew this contest was gonna be good. These design are awesome. Each time I look on this thread I see a new suggestion that makes me go "OH"
Typing this sucks. Broke a finger today restraining a guy.
I like that arrowhead concept or something similar personally.
 
The last one I linked to is so much like the sketch I did at work today that it's scary !!!!
I can imagine a JK version as well !!!!
 
Well, knowing what I know there, I came up with a light-weight utility. I debated serrations, but decided against them in the end, since a nice sharp edge will cut synthetics and fibrous material just as well, if not better. The blade is shaped in such a way that you can stab with it, cut with it, slash with it, and even pry with it (the angle of the tip and the handle are more or less in line with each other). Because of it's shape, it can even be wielded like a kerambit, but its curve isn't so dramatic as to make it difficult to use for other tasks. I skeletonized the handle in this design, but if that isn't something that can be done, I can pretty easily change the design to just have holes instead--I just wanted to make it as light as possible without losing too much strength. There is a small glass-breaker on the butt that isn't so big as to be a deadly weapon (unless you really try, I suppose), but should be plenty to shatter glass.

With that, I present to you; the Legel LEUK (Law Enforcement Utility Knife) Skeletonized

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Thanks for looking!

~Noah

I like this one!
 
A little blurry, but you get the idea. 6 1/4" overall, 1/8" thick, with thin (1/8" or 1/4") micarta slabs. It could be skeletonized under the handles for lighter weight.

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This mone is nice. I'd do a coffin-type handle, call it a pocket bowie.
Keep the handle length the same length as whatever that is lying on top of the picture.
 
I'd slim the guard a little, with a forward curve to be gentle on the fingers.
Really nice design, John!

This is a nice design John. Definitely need a point on the end or side for glass break outs.
Plus to jab your partner or co-workers in the ribs ;)
 
This is a nice design John. Definitely need a point on the end or side for glass break outs.
Plus to jab your partner or co-workers in the ribs ;)

Have you ever needed to cut a seat belt? I had to to pull a guy out of his flipped jeep and I remember being very careful not to cut him. I now carry a seat belt cutter just in case. I'd think for this reason a wharnecliff or sheepsfoot would be needed.
 
I reground mine this morning, with more radius on the guards, and a point on the end. Also slightly reduced the top guard, and slight change of the handle. I`ll heat treat it along with my orders this weekend, then finish it up next week.
 
This is the revised model. 6 1/4" oal, with a cutting edge 2 5/8" long.

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Shown with N and J frame S&W`s

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Have you ever needed to cut a seat belt? I had to to pull a guy out of his flipped jeep and I remember being very careful not to cut him. I now carry a seat belt cutter just in case. I'd think for this reason a wharnecliff or sheepsfoot would be needed.

Yes quite a few times. Used whatever I had on me at the time. Usually a Leatherman Wave or PST.
I was a Paramedic in Buffalo NY before I went into LE.

Any chance to make a recessed "cutter" on the top edge like the SOG Speed Assist blade?
 
The first one I drew a while back but I think it would fit in here. The only thing I could think of changing for LEO's would maybe to add more of a guard?

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This next one I just did to be a little wilder.

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John, I think a larger verson of the UBOT with @2 1/2 inch blade but instead of a bottle opener have a sharpened notch area to cut nylon cuffs . The pry end woul come in handy for police officers .
 
Okay, here's my idea.

I chose a semi-wharncliffe blade for a couple reasons. Easier to poke under things to slice them (nylon cuffs, seatbelts). It's also really easy to sharpen.

The butt of the knife is pointed for breaking windows.

The "notch" for the forefinger is for blade retention and eliminates the need for a guard. It's also really comfy. It's wide enough to work with gloves.

7" all up length. I chose that length because it allows for a sufficient blade length and the handle is long enough to allow for the pointed window breaker. 1/8" stock with 1/8" scales makes it pretty darn thin (and light). Really easy to carry wherever you want. The lack of width to the handle is made up by how tall it is. Even though it's thin, it fills up the grip pretty good.

119091468.jpg
 
Okay, here's my idea.

I chose a semi-wharncliffe blade for a couple reasons. Easier to poke under things to slice them (nylon cuffs, seatbelts). It's also really easy to sharpen.

The butt of the knife is pointed for breaking windows.

The "notch" for the forefinger is for blade retention and eliminates the need for a guard. It's also really comfy. It's wide enough to work with gloves.

7" all up length. I chose that length because it allows for a sufficient blade length and the handle is long enough to allow for the pointed window breaker. 1/8" stock with 1/8" scales makes it pretty darn thin (and light). Really easy to carry wherever you want. The lack of width to the handle is made up by how tall it is. Even though it's thin, it fills up the grip pretty good.

119091468.jpg

I really like this one :thumbup:
 
Any more designs? What about the Anniversary EDC with a wharncliff blade, and pointed pommel?
 
As soon as I have time I planned on sketching something... but don't wait on me if you want to get going on it.
 
Here`s one like the one I made for my daughter, her`s has black micarta handles.

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