Need advice. I have a LC200n Native and also planning on getting the LC200N Salt 2 in PE when they become available. I love the salt line for EDC because I don't have to worry about rust or anything else (basic design without washers or liners). What type of edge suits LC200N best? Toothy, mirror polished, medium grit or more on the finer side? Need the type of edge that will last the longest. Anyone with good experience regarding LC200N for EDC purposes? I sharpen at 15 degrees.
LC200N - Best Edge for Durability
- Thread starter FrannaM
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2015
- Messages
- 315
On my spydiechef, I find that a more polished edge seems to hold better than a toothy edge. But the edge retention isn’t ever great compared to most of my other favorite (tool) steels like k390 or M4. The sharpening is super easy by comparison though, and the edge always seems to roll rather than chip. I usually sharpen on an extra fine diamond plate, hit it on a ceramic rod, and strop.
Thanks for the input. I normally just sharpen to a toothy edge because I'm lazy, but will give a polished edge a go.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2015
- Messages
- 1,697
I own a couple Lc200n knives, Native 5 Salt and the Spydiechef but haven't ever sharpened either one and have never used the Chef. Looking forward to the responses.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2017
- Messages
- 607
^This is right right here.
Spydiechef is my small EDC knife. I sharpen it with the sharp makers ceramics and when it gets bad need to hit it up with diamonds. I don't put it on the Wicked Edge because it just can't keep insane edges and doesn't benefit from perfect geometry fenagling. The steel is an easy steel just to whip up in a 30 degree and go to work. It's not a super cutter, but will last you a lot longer that non-serrated than H-1, which ofc should be used serrated.
My new LC200n salt 2 SE defintly runs out of gas edge wise in the week I have had it , hopefully after Christmas I can have a sharpmaker express shipped to get it keen again
kinda disappointed in the steel, might need to buy a vg10 serrated for long term edc on the ranch
kinda disappointed in the steel, might need to buy a vg10 serrated for long term edc on the ranch
I have an LC200N UKpenknife and it is disappointing. Yes, easy to sharpen. But my H1 aqua lasts longer. If this weren´t the case, I´d say Im doing something wrong. Both spyderco, both sharpened numerous times using the same technique, by me. I even tried the dual grit sharpening technique which worked really well on magnacut, but doesn´t on my UKPK Lc200N. Frustrated. Any suggestions? Is it the heat treatment? Anyone know about spyderco´s heat treatment of LC200N?
And? You bought a new knife and disguarded the salt 2, right?
MolokaiRider
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2017
- Messages
- 8,611
I have done my first sharpening on my LC200n version.
I have been carrying it regularly for three weeks, and will be interesting to see how the retention of the edge holds up.
I have been carrying it regularly for three weeks, and will be interesting to see how the retention of the edge holds up.
Elgatodeacero
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Messages
- 2,760
I have carried a Spyderco Siren almost everyday for a year and one-half and whatever edge the factory uses has held up incredibly well.
I stropped it a few times but not sharpened. I am very happy with this knife, and edge retention and durability has been good. The lightweight build is great, the clip has held up well, and the knife seems rustproof.
I stropped it a few times but not sharpened. I am very happy with this knife, and edge retention and durability has been good. The lightweight build is great, the clip has held up well, and the knife seems rustproof.
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2012
- Messages
- 6,973
If you're using the 15 DPS geometry and absolutely refuse to go lower, you will absolutely want to use the coarsest edge you can possibly use. If all you are doing is slicing cuts, then this can easily be straight off 120 grit stone and I would even deburr directly on the stone. If you do a mix of push cutting and pull or slice cutting, then somewhere around DMT 600 Corase grit is a good compromise. If you need high push cutting ability more than slicing then you need something in the neighborhood of DMT 1200 Fine or higher (MXF-EEF).
If you are willing to lower the edge angle significantly then you can go to a much higher grit rated edge without needing to use extreme coarse finishes to keep up cutting performance. This is one of the many advantages of steel like LC200N or similar AEB-L is that you can really drop the edge angles A LOT, as half the degrees or more from what they come factory. Then you get extreme cutting ability and sufficient edge stability to actually keep that edge cutting for a long time AND you do not have to resort to diamond or CBN in order to use the finer grits and have them cut well.
You need to lower the edge angle considerably, LC200N is a low-carbide steel similar to AEB-L and is designed to be run at much lower edge angles than what come factory. You're going to 100% be underwhelmed at 15-20 DPS compared to almost anything Spyderco produces unless you value ease of resharpening over pure edge retention. LC200N becomes a much superior performer across the board when you commit to running much lower edge angles, it's an excellent steel for this application.
Let me know, also, curious - what "make & model"? ie, is it a spyderco or other?
does it keep a "paper cutting sharp" edge?
Im just trying to see what my expectations should be here.
In other news, I have a vanax. Beautiful. Keeps the paper cutting edge much longer, but hard to get it "hair shaving" sharp. Anyone with experience?
MolokaiRider
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2017
- Messages
- 8,611
It is this Salt, but I still need more time and experience after the first sharpening to make any conclusions.
This picture says it all. I live on an island and everyday is like being on the beach. I need a good steel that won't rust. So Ive bought one of each over the years: H1, LC200N, Magnacut, and Vanax. In that order. I really liked my H1 and maybe because I was aware it required frequent sharpening. In my experience, really it just needed stropping with the diamond paste - maybe every time. The LC200N lasts a week for me - thus the post... trying to get feedback. But I may have to call it quits on LC200N. I will keep the little folder, but not buy any others. Magnacut seems hold the edge a little longer, but it does rust. One little spot under the handle of my fixed blade, but I spent an afternoon trying to buff it out. Disappointed frankly (maybe a little-its a cool knife, cool concept steel). Vanax seems to be taking the cake. Not sure which holds its edge longer, but I am leaning towards Vanax.
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2012
- Messages
- 6,973
Have you tried to put some sort of comparative test together between the LC200N and something that you feel outperforms it? I mean, the thing about using knives daily is that it can be very misleading. Many people tend to draw these very different conclusions which they immediately attribute to the steel itself when it's very likely that what they may be noting is caused by some other design factor or some simple random scatter of how the knives are being used and differences in materials being cut. Something which uses blinding would be ideal where you have someone cut with both knives in a way where they don't know what blade is what and they simply focus on using them in as similar manner as possible. Then you can see if the results actually line up with what you are seeing. I think it's far too early to draw conclusions and there is always the possibility that there is some damaged steel at the apex and as you resharpen the knife over time there may be improvements.
So Im trying to revive this thread and review everyone´s experience. What sharpening technique has given your LC200N the longest life?