Lets see opinels - Pic Thread

Kevin - that looks really great!
Bet it feels great in hand as well.
Would you mind sharing what files you are using?
 
Thanks Jwren!

I honestly don't know much about files or the type I used. My grandpa had a metal working shop as a hobby and also jewelry making shop. I was lucky to inherit the entire set up. There are close to 100 files and I believe they are all meant for metal. For this I used what looked to be the least expensive file. Its triangular with an orange handle. I am already off to work but when I get home I will take a picture and maybe someone that knows more than I do can help identifiy it :)

I believe I could use the same file to do fine checkering also, just spacing the grooves closer :)

Kevin
 
Kevin - I don't know much at all about files either, but your pics are giving me a hankering to try this! :)
I look forward to your pics, thanks for taking the time!
 
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Kevin - I don't know much at all about files either, but your pics are giving me a hankering to try this! :)
I look forward to your pics, thanks for taking the time!

Here you go bud. It is a lousy picture but I am worn out from today and I just snapped one off. It does not show it well but the file is a triangle. Three sides all the same width. I hope this helps. Good luck and one tip would be to try different spacing on a scrap piece of wood first so you can pick what you like best :) The further you space the notches the deeper you have to go to bring the diamond to a point.



Kevin
 
Thanks for the pic and the tips, Kevin.
Really much appreciated! :)
Ok, now I've got to get to the hardware store and find an appropriate file.
 
Your welcome :)

You can do even better than me if you draw it out nice and even. All of mine are free hand sketched and I even added curves to the lines on the cherry wood.

Just for fun with my attempts.

Hope to see how you make out.

Kevin
 
It sure looks backwards to me and here is a photo of the best way IMO



Kevin

I thought I knew the answer.. but I'm guessing I might need a few more tips..

How do you get f shine? did you sand through the grits up to like 2000? or use a buffing wheel..??

Got myself an oak inox #8 and strted with 240, 400 and 600 grit but need to order in some higher grades.. or am I wasteing my time?
 
I thought I knew the answer.. but I'm guessing I might need a few more tips..

How do you get f shine? did you sand through the grits up to like 2000? or use a buffing wheel..??

Got myself an oak inox #8 and strted with 240, 400 and 600 grit but need to order in some higher grades.. or am I wasteing my time?

The stainless blades on some of the pricier 'exotic' wood Opi's are factory-polished, unlike the satin-finish seen on the less-expensive ones. I'm assuming this may be one of the polished ones (the ebony-handled models aren't cheap, at $50+).

Having said that, the satin blades can be polished with a very tight sandpaper sequence (400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000 and beyond), followed with Flitz/Simichrome or similar polish made for hardened metals like stainless steel. The tighter the sequence is, with the narrowest gaps in grit, the better the results will be.


David
 
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The other trick to getting a mirror finish is to sand at right angles to the previous pass.

I'll take alternating passes of spine to edge and then tang to tip. Continue with each pass until there is absolutely no sign of the previous pass. By working at right angles, it's usually pretty easy to see marks from the prior pass under light. This trick helps ensure you stick with the next grit up long enough to work down through the previous grit. With higher grits (800 and up) I'll work both directions with hte same grit before moving up.
 
Yet another trick that I have used is a good set of cork belts and the right polishing compounds applied on them.

I believe this gives a much cleaner and more crisp finish than any buffer. It will not lift out logos either.

Kevin
 
The #9 and #10 arrived today, just a heads up for those that end up ordering, they arrive in a sealed plastic sleeve, no boxes, thought it was strange but I'm not all that big on boxes anyways.
And you guys were right, definitely needed these to round out the collection, both arrived with a rough edge, but of course they sharpened up very nicely.

Funny thing is, when I was examining the #9 I was thinking "yeah, this is a pretty large folder" BUT I thought I had the #10 in hand, hehe, so when I made that discovery the #10 looked really big. I'll get a group photo up some time of the set. I can't see getting any larger than the #10 at this time.

G2

edited to add;
Now the spines on both blades were quite crisp, had to get them rounded slightly and sanded down smooth, also the slots in the handle were sanded down smooth as well. The angle of both knives with the blades open were far from straight, I'm sure there's a good reason for it, but the OCD in me can't stand that very well, so THIS time I went much slower as I dremelled down the end of the tang, now both blades open with a fairly straight profile from handle spine to blade spine and both still lock up great without being a full spin around at all.
 
Mine is still completely unmodified as of right now but here are some pictures of the patina I have started. This knife stays in my desk drawer at work and is used to slice up an apple everyday once or twice a day. This is after roughly 3 weeks of apple cutting give or take. Here is my #7.



 
I did a little stain and sharpening job on this #8 for my wife:



 
Nice set there! tempted to get their saw too, and here I thought it'd end?

a quick photo of my French Quarter...for now at least!

Left side is the
#8 Garden
#8 Slim in Ebony
Top right is the
#10 it's a very good size folder!! but manageable
#9 also pretty good size knife
#8 in Ebony, polished blade and that's the one I had engraved with the Celtic cross
Le Compact Le Thiers by Chambriard in Curly Birch scales
Le Compagnon Le Thiers by Chambriard in Ebony scales

French_Quarter.jpg


That'll do for a while, the box is one I picked up at work and converted as a holding case, safer than just setting in the drawer.
The two slip sheaths, the lighter coloured one is glued and hand sewn elk skin, hard to hand sew that stuff, the second is a thinner leather I glued and had my wife sew on a sewing machine for me, she didn't care to do that but it came out ok, those are for holding the Le Thiers by Chambriard knives, I designed them so the longer flap covers the opening helping to keep out the crud/dust and crap that floats around in my pocket.

G2

edited to add the Celtic cross engraving they put on for me

attachment.php
 
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Bonky, great mod! :thumbup::thumbup:
I like the “antique” yet new look and it probanly feels great in the hand too.

Richstag and Gary: great collections, nice knives! :thumbup::thumbup:

Gary, if possible, could you please show us the engraving on your ebony knife?
Thanks,
littleknife
 
Thanks littleknife, I just edited my last post to show that engraving.
G2
 
Thanks Gary and littleknife.

Nice collection your putting together too, Gary.

I can't believe how much larger these are than the pictures show. The saw is very large but it should be OKAY for pocket carry. I got it to carry instead of my machete for cutting out wood to carve etc :)

Kevin
 
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