Lets see some Hinderer action

[adluginb]

I’ve never owned an Eklipse but I picked up a new full textured Ti, working finish, hollow slicer on the secondary over the weekend.

Do most RHK fans like the Eklipse over a XM 3.5”?

Plans are to send it for a regrind if I like how it feels in the hand when I receive it.

 

[KAR9889]

I’ve never owned an Eklipse but I picked up a new full textured Ti, working finish, hollow slicer on the secondary over the weekend.

Do most RHK fans like the Eklipse over a XM 3.5”?

Plans are to send it for a regrind if I like how it feels in the hand when I receive it.

The eklipse feels much better in hand than the xm in my opinion. Love them both though.

 

[SharpBits]

The Eklipse has a certain something extra about it. Same for the ZT version. But, if I only had an XM18, I would still be happy.

 

[Hvactech]

A couple of my latest scores

 

[ferider]

I’ve never owned an Eklipse but I picked up a new full textured Ti, working finish, hollow slicer on the secondary over the weekend.

Do most RHK fans like the Eklipse over a XM 3.5”?

Plans are to send it for a regrind if I like how it feels in the hand when I receive it.

I like them both. The Eklipse is a bit more fragile due to smaller scale screws, the XM18 is more robust. No-choil XM18 is probably my favorite in that size.

The XM18 / Eklipse Auto are the bees knees. If you can, you should try. Looks expensive, but not more so that Eklipse/XM plus Ti scale.

Make sure whoever regrind does so wet.

 

[sharp_edge]

I’ve never owned an Eklipse but I picked up a new full textured Ti, working finish, hollow slicer on the secondary over the weekend.

Do most RHK fans like the Eklipse over a XM 3.5”?

Plans are to send it for a regrind if I like how it feels in the hand when I receive it.

I like both. I don't like one more than the other. If you rest your thumb on the back of the scale, Eklipse might feel a bit more comfortable. But if you hold the knife in a hammer grip, Xm-18 feels better; it also feels more ergo with a reverse hammer grip than Eklipse. I prefer that Eklipse does not have a big (and useless to me mostly) finger choil on the blade, but no-choil XM-18 negates it. Among all the variants of both, no-choil skinny XM-18 3.5" slicer is my most favorite.

By the way, the hardware of XM-18 3.5" and Eklipse 3.5" are interchangeable - obviously one will have to swap the entire set between them. For those of you who got the recent skinny Eklipse, could you please try the skinny XM-18 3.5 hardware set on it and let us know if it works? I only tried on the regular XM-18 3.5" and Eklipse 3.5".

 

[Dadpool]

The Eklipse feels more lively in my hand and carries a little smaller due to its straighter form factor, but my lizard brain prefers the XM-18. They're both fantastic, no wrong choices there.

 

[Mk-211]

 

[ferider]

By the way, the hardware of XM-18 3.5" and Eklipse 3.5" are interchangeable - obviously one will have to swap the entire set between them.

Not so, only for the XM18 3.5 Sheepsfoot. All other XM have different scale screws and standoffs compared to Eklipse.

Don’t have a skinny Eklipse, but I can see from pictures that the scale screws are T6, which they are not for skinny XM18 3.5.

 

[sharp_edge]

Not so, only for the XM18 3.5 Sheepsfoot. All other XM have different scale screws and standoffs compared to Eklipse.

Don’t have a skinny Eklipse, but I can see from pictures that the scale screws are T6, which they are not for skinny XM18 3.5.

Right, and that is why I said you'll have to replace the entire set (screws, standoffs, nuts).

 

[ferider]

Right, and that is why I said you'll have to replace the entire set (screws, standoffs, nuts).

Have you tried XM hardware in an Eklipse, say a Wharncliffe? Does the blade touch the hardware?

 

[sharp_edge]

Have you tried XM hardware in an Eklipse, say a Wharncliffe? Does the blade touch the hardware?

I tried swapping between XM-18 3.5" slicer and Eklipse spearpoint though didn't pay attention to blade touching standoffs. Edges appear to be all fine.

 

[adluginb]

Ok guys need some help with one of my Hinderer Jurasics.

First off I’m terrible at trying to improve a knife’s action. With that being said here is what is going on.

Okay the knife terms I’m not sure on also….

But the detent ball that is on the lockbar insert. It seems it is either too tight to its hole that it’s in or something. I think the ball is suppose to go into hole so blade can pass but it’s hard for that ball to do that or it’s meeting resistance.

When the knife is open and I then push lockbar to start the action to close, the blade just comes to an abrupt stop when it hits that detent ball. My other RHK models fall past this ball and gently shut either on their own or with a little shake of knife. What call a great action.

But this knife the blade will not go past that detent ball unless you physically pushing blade past it?

Does that make sense what I am trying to say?

 

[Dadpool]

Does that make sense what I am trying to say?

It makes sense. How new is the knife? Every Hinderer I've owned needed a break-in period, usually around two weeks but in one case more like 3-4 weeks. (And then from there, buttery smooth perfection.)

 

[sharp_edge]

It makes sense and it is normal IMO as there is a not a detent ball ramp on the blade tang of RHK knives. I don't think break-in will eliminate it. It is a non-iuuse for me - when closing a framelock folder like XM-18, I push outward the lockbar and let the blade folds until the detent ball gets on the surface of the blade tang.

 

[adluginb]

It makes sense. How new is the knife? Every Hinderer I've owned needed a break-in period, usually around two weeks but in one case more like 3-4 weeks. (And then from there, buttery smooth perfection.)

I have owned the knife for a year and bought it used so I’d say at least 3 years old. Has NOT gotten any better with me carrying it and I am constantly flipping my knives.

It makes sense and it is normal IMO as there is a not a detent ball ramp on the blade tang of RHK knives. I don't think break-in will eliminate it. It is a non-iuuse for me - when closing a framelock folder like XM-18, I push outward the lockbar and let the blade folds until the detent ball gets on the surface of the blade tang.

Yes that is what I have to do, push it out so far that the ball clears the blade altogether. My others the blade will push the ball in its hole and either side past it or do so with a slight jiggle of the knife.

Didn’t know if maybe something has gotten under that detent ball and is causing it to not move freely?

It’s not a bad issue but was wondering if something could slick it up some.

 

[SharpBits]

I'd give RHK a call and see what they say. I've only heard good things about their support.

 

[Dadpool]

Didn’t know if maybe something has gotten under that detent ball and is causing it to not move freely?

A very low impact option would be to clean the detent ball with a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol, then slide a bit of index card or folded paper between the ball and lock with the knife open, carefully close and open the knife a couple times (this cleans the track without disassembly), and lastly put the tiniest dab of a heavy knife lube -- like the amount that the sharp end of a pin will hold -- on the ball.

And of course you can always do those steps with it fully disassembled, too.

 

[ac3boyz]

Ok guys need some help with one of my Hinderer Jurasics.

First off I’m terrible at trying to improve a knife’s action. With that being said here is what is going on.

Okay the knife terms I’m not sure on also….

But the detent ball that is on the lockbar insert. It seems it is either too tight to its hole that it’s in or something. I think the ball is suppose to go into hole so blade can pass but it’s hard for that ball to do that or it’s meeting resistance.

When the knife is open and I then push lockbar to start the action to close, the blade just comes to an abrupt stop when it hits that detent ball. My other RHK models fall past this ball and gently shut either on their own or with a little shake of knife. What call a great action.

But this knife the blade will not go past that detent ball unless you physically pushing blade past it?

Does that make sense what I am trying to say?

adluginb , I see the same thing with my Jurassic. Is it possible the flipper tab is hitting your thumb as or before the blade contacts the detent ball?

Here is a picture of the blade angle of the Eklipse and Jurassic where they come in contact with the detent.


I find with the Eklipse (and XM) that when I press on the lockbar, the blade easily passes this point and I can remove my thumb as the blade closes.

However, on the Jurassic, the blade contacts the detent ball at the same point as the flipper tab hits my thumb, stopping the momentum needed to clear the ball.

I've found that if I press on the lockbar a little lower (further away from the pivot) the blade is able to clear the detent and easily close as I remove my thumb.

Just a fwiw, hope it helps.

 

[adluginb]

ac3boyz Thanks for info. Mine still hits the ball before it hits my thumb. The only way the blade will go closed after it contacts the ball is if I push lock bar completely out of the way so blade clears the ball or push the blade closed and over the ball. At this quality level it has to be something with the ball.

I decided yesterday to go ahead and send it in to RHK.

It shipped out yesterday to them. Their website states warranty work is taking 2-4 weeks currently so I will for sure come back and report on the outcome.

Appreciate everyone’s advice.