Let's see some " worn out " knives

This Olsen is a special knife gifted to me by @paulhilborn :) Still gets carried :thumbsup:

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This knife belonged to my grandfather. He died while working the field on his farm when my dad was still a teenager. The blades are a bit worn and they don't have much snap, but the only reason I don't carry it is because it's got too much sentimental value to risk losing it.
It convinced me to buy a peanut. If a small knife was good enough for my grandfather, then one would be good enough for me.
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These are from Mom's dad again. This one really is worn out, with a free-swinging corkscrew and a friction-folding main.
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I wonder if he got this Eisener to replace the Schrade Walden.
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None of his other blades are nicked. I can only guess what he thought of stainless steel.
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OzzPrime said:
Perfect! I was going to post asking for help. I acquired this beauty recently, and would love to give her a home spa treatment. Looks like she was left to rust and then took a solid dremeling. Can someone point me towards some threads on treating the rust inside frame on springs and how to get the grinds off the flats? Walk and talk is great!View attachment 1508879View attachment 1508880View attachment 1508881View attachment 1508882View attachment 1508883View attachment 1508884View attachment 1508885View attachment 1508886View attachment 1508887View attachment 1508888
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I would work on the blade and the caplifter with sand paper on a very flat surface starting at 80 or 120 grit and just going back and forth as close to the tag as you can and progress up to about 600 then you’d want to put the sand paper on a mousepad and go in one direction carefully to clean up the sandpaper marks which if done well will start to look like the factory grind the mouse pad will help the sandpaper fully stay in contact with the blade and will also get to areas that if it were on a flat hard surface might get missed. It ends up convexing the edge a little too. I would not do much with the blade well and just maybe give the whole thing a dip in vinegar for 20-30 minutes taking it out every few minutes to scratch at the rust in the blade well with a toothpick to get off any red rust then I’d wash in hot water with some soap and rinse it dry it and oil it, the vinegar and oil will basically turn the rust to patina. Here are a couple pics of one I did that had a bit of a divot towards the front edge it’s still there a little bit and I tried to show it in the pics but it is less noticeable than it was. If those deemed marks are too deep you may not want to try to fully get rid of them and just minimize the appearance.
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I am not past trying to resurrect a knife with wear if it is a pattern I like (see the Case cattle knife below), but the Buck 703 may be beyond my skills. I got both in a box of old knives found in a basement. The Case still has surprising snap and takes a good edge. ;)
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scrteened porch said:
Not worn out, by any means, but worn down some. My maternal grandfather's 3-layer scout with prewar type can opener.
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Not a mark on it anywhere, that I can see.
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Looks a Lot like this Colonial Forest Master I have. In better shape too!

This one came as a gift from a friend that knew I rebuild them, if I could use it for parts...

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Can opener is rusted shut

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This one is probably beyond saving... at least for me. Main blade has spring up until its open, then it has 1/8" of slop... punch and lifter are fine. I could take it down to one layer with those two, and clean it up, new scales, but its nothing I'd ever have use for so I'm not enthusiastic about doing it.
 
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My Douk Douk is my highest mileage knife. Going on 2 years of pretty hard use. There was a time I would have retired it already because the lansky crock sticks in the picture were all I had to sharpen my knives for years. Once I got ground up higher into the blade it was tough to get a good edge just because of the geometry change. In the intermittent 15 years I've had them I've learned a few things, and now I'm able to get a lot more out of my blades.
 
r8shell said:
Maybe they should require some sort of license to operate a Dremel. :rolleyes:
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After just a little work, it's still an oddly shaped blade, but it cuts well.
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That's horrifying!! :eek: Nice work Rachel :thumbsup:

Ice Tigre said:
I dunno, I'd rather people do that then snap half the blade off usimg it as a crow bar... at least this way there is more to salvage.
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They're probably the same people o_O :thumbsup:
 
r8shell said:
Maybe they should require some sort of license to operate a Dremel. :rolleyes:
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After just a little work, it's still an oddly shaped blade, but it cuts well.
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I'll bet they used a bench grinder with at least 3/4HP, probably either a Baldor or an old Craftsman block body.
 
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