Let's see your handmade axe covers!

[olybears57]

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For those of you using stitching, how do you keep the bit from cutting the threads?

I don't stitch, but i believe they put a piece of leather between the other two pieces, and stitch through all three.

 

[Joe L. Bachs]

This is from awhile back but here is one I made from an old redwing work boot.

 

[rjdankert]

For those of you using stitching, how do you keep the bit from cutting the threads?

​

I don't stitch, but i believe they put a piece of leather between the other two pieces, and stitch through all three.

Yes, it's called a welt. Here is a pattern to illustrate:

Bob

 

[A Visitor]

The "washers" or burrs aren't supposed slide down the rivet.

I use the scrap of thick walled tubing in the above photo to pound the burr down tight. Then if needed, trim the rivet off with a side cutter. This will leave enough to peen the rivet over the burr. I peen them down to where none of the edges of the rivet is above the burr. If it's not smooth it could catch on something like clothing or fingers. And IMHO it looks better.

Bob

I think peening the rivet down to where it is close to the burr is too low for full strength. I use a set with a rounded profile and it gives a nice finished look that doesn't snag or cut like peened down sometimes can. My experience with the rivets has been mostly with dog leads that have more skin / hand contact than sheaths. I like the hand forged look of rivets like Peg shows for ornamental steel. I even heat and shape lag bolts like he suggests and then install with one of those sockets that uses pins to adjust and fit different size bolts. It is a decorative look for bolts you don't want someone to be able to remove easily.
I have see copper rivet sets on line that have designs inside that transfer to the rivet head. Of you could use a dremel to profile one like the "rose" Peg describes.

 

[rjdankert]

I think peening the rivet down to where it is close to the burr is too low for full strength. I use a set with a rounded profile and it gives a nice finished look that doesn't snag or cut like peened down sometimes can. . .

I don't know about the strength part, but if you don't peen the edge of the rivet down to the burr, I don't see how it would not snag. Looks-wise to each his own, I can go either way. Also, there is no inherit reason why a peened rivet would "snag or cut".

Bob

 

[jmarston]

Whipped this one up the other evening.
Found the head in a scrap metal bin and carved he handle from a block of ash with my draw knives. Took it out to the woods and it performs excellently! I really like how the sheath turned out too.

 

[A Visitor]

I don't know about the strength part, but if you don't peen the edge of the rivet down to the burr, I don't see how it would not snag. Looks-wise to each his own, I can go either way. Also, there is no inherit reason why a peened rivet would "snag or cut".

Bob

Maybe I'm not understanding what your meaning. I peen the rivet after setting and cutting the burr with a round head set tool. It shapes the rivet into a dome that is larger than the already press fit burr hole.
I have seen people peen the head down with a hammer after setting the burr. That usually forms a rolled edge that can cut or snag.
If you post a picture of a finished rivet it might clear up your method to me.

 

[rjdankert]

. . . If you post a picture of a finished rivet it might clear up your method to me. . .

Here you go

You will have to take my word for this, but when I run my finger over the above peened rivet and burr I cannot feel anything that would snag.

. . . I have seen people peen the head down with a hammer after setting the burr. That usually forms a rolled edge that can cut or snag. . .

I'd say they didn't finish the job.

Bob

 

[olybears57]

I agree Bob. I peen mine with A machinists hammer as well. None of mine have ever snagged on anything ever.

 

[A Visitor]

I'd say they didn't finish the job.

Bob

I agree

 

[mckrob]

 

[AntCaps]

I do my rivits the same way nice and rounded never a snag issue.

Here you go

You will have to take my word for this, but when I run my finger over the above peened rivet and burr I cannot feel anything that would snag.



I'd say they didn't finish the job.

Bob

 

[GooberBoober]

Man, you guys are handy. This is the best I've come up with so far

 

[A.L.]

THAT is awesome. This, less so. Quick and dirty.

cshawk_plumb_mk1 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

Great work and what a beauties those axe/hawk are! :thumbup:

some of my work:


posted here before http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...homemade-sheath-pic-s-if-you-got-em-post-em-D

Samek

Great looking work, I particularly love those buckles!

 

[Dusty One]

One made by a friends Dad....

 

[Agent_H]

Man, you guys are handy. This is the best I've come up with so far

That is about my skill level at the moment except that the side panel of a sixpack ends up wrapped around the duct tape...

Not an "in the field" sort of thing...

 

[trailtime]

Good ol' fire hose. Tough as nails and free for the asking. Flap closed with 2" wide strips of Velcro.

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[Square_peg]

Fire hose is the universal cover. Great for any saw or axe.

 

[halfaxe]

I don't have the skills that most of you guys have but here are some of mine. My snowmobile axe and True Temper tomahawk have covers made from old boots and bootlaces.

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