Let's Talk About Sharpening Our Survive! Knives

ManOfSteel89 said:
Key word is diamond plate there SN. Might not have been so quick with an Arkansas stone ;)
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Exactly. Diamonds even the playing field when sharpening all the steel types.
Regardless of the steel, if you can't get an edge pretty quickly with a diamond hone you need to work on your technique.
 
Fancier said:
Exactly. Diamonds even the playing field when sharpening all the steel types.
Regardless of the steel, if you can't get an edge pretty quickly with a diamond hone you need to work on your technique.
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I think diamond stones/plates will be the next thing to get....why so many options!>!>!?!?! ergh... would it be true to say that since they quickly sharpen, they could also quickly damage too? (keep in mind my current noob status as a sharpener)
 
redwood22 said:
I think diamond stones/plates will be the next thing to get....why so many options!>!>!?!?! ergh... would it be true to say that since they quickly sharpen, they could also quickly damage too? (keep in mind my current noob status as a sharpener)
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If you damage with diamonds you'll damage with anything you're sharpening with. Go DMT and never look back.
 
redwood22 said:
I think diamond stones/plates will be the next thing to get....why so many options!>!>!?!?! ergh... would it be true to say that since they quickly sharpen, they could also quickly damage too? (keep in mind my current noob status as a sharpener)
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Since they tend to cut faster than other stones of equivalent grit size you do have to exercise some caution.
I would recommend using a fine grit diamond for sharpening. Coarse grits are for repairing damaged edges.
To put things in proper perspective a grinder would cut steel a lot faster than any diamond bench stone.
 
Fancier said:
Since they tend to cut faster than other stones of equivalent grit size you do have to exercise some caution.
I would recommend using a fine grit diamond for sharpening. Coarse grits are for repairing damaged edges.
To put things in proper perspective a grinder would cut steel a lot faster than any diamond bench stone.
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been using a sharpmaker which does a decent job, but isn't a very satisfying experience. I'd rather just get good on flat surfaces...will look into some diamond options..
 
I dare not try it on a tabletop setup as I am new and worry I will make mistakes with the way I angle the blade. Bought myself a Gatco Ultimate diamond set, those clamp type sharpening kit. Now I am wondering if that is enough to sharpen the 7/7 when I receive it from S!K?
 
Silver Needle said:
To the SURVIVOR!s reading this, I know I'm preaching to the choir, but there still seems to be at least a small misconception on the difficulty (or lack of difficulty) on sharpening 3v. A few days ago I read a comment online from someone saying that 3v is great in the field, but the trade off is that it takes extra long to sharpen. This has not been my experience!!! After an afternoon of batoning and light delimbing AND several evenings of whittling and drinking bourbon all it took was 25 strokes on each side of the blade on a small fine diamond plate to get my GSO 5 back to shaving my arm hair. If you're just getting into SURVIVE! Knives and cpm 3v, let me tell you that this steel is very user friendly :thumbup:

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That little Work Sharp field sharpener is flat out awesome. I have one with green BRKT compound on the little strop on it, I'm going to get another for myself and put black BRKT compound on it and give a couple more and my old one away as Christmas gifts to my nephews. I also bought the larger bench top Work Sharp system, the Guided Sharpening System I think it's called, along with upgrade kit, and I like it a lot. I'm not sure about the need for the pivoting thing but I haven't sharpened a recurved blade on it yet either.

I was messing around cutting up some old mouse pads a while back and putting some little convex kits together, they're another good option for dragging along into the woods with you.

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It's just a mouse pad cut into quarters with a piece of 400, 600, 1000, and 2000 wet/dry 3M sandpaper cut in half all rolled up with a rubber or ranger band to secure them and a 1 1/4" binder clip to hold the sandpaper to the mouse pad. I haven't figured out a smart way to roll it up with the clip included so I just stick the clip on somewhere out of the way. I don't care for full convex edges on knives personally but the 1k and 2k have touched up edges nicely and the coarser grits have worked well on axes. A mouse pad can be had for about 3 bucks and it's $3-$4 for a 5 pack of the wet/dry sandpaper so it doesn't take much at all.
 
Sounds like you're more experienced with the field sharpener than I am. I've used that tiny strop a few times, but I wondered if between the small surface area and my absence of compound if it was doing much. I have plans for dmt plates and a Flexxx Strop for at home.

Nice portable convexing setup. I hadn't seen anything like that before :thumbup:
 
I carry some 180, 320, and 400 for my skinner that goes everywhere. I need a mouse pad cause I'll just use my strap on my pack or my leg :eek:
 
I think my reluctance to pick anything up is potential cost...could just be an excuse, but i dont want to invest into a system only to find it not work out or i'm no good at it. I like the sharpmaker but don't love it. I figured the strop i bought was pretty bullet proof in terms of cost and potential use, and so far I am happy, now i just need the rest....
 
just bought a Fallkniven Knives DC4 relatively cheap and can add it to a travel kit if i end up figuring it out.
 
redwood22 said:
I think my reluctance to pick anything up is potential cost...could just be an excuse, but i dont want to invest into a system only to find it not work out or i'm no good at it. I like the sharpmaker but don't love it. I figured the strop i bought was pretty bullet proof in terms of cost and potential use, and so far I am happy, now i just need the rest....
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The sharpmaker triangle rods can be placed flat on the grooves in the holder to simulate a bench stone. I'd rather have a bench stone but if you want to practice free handing without spending anything you have that option.
 
Fancier said:
The sharpmaker triangle rods can be placed flat on the grooves in the holder to simulate a bench stone. I'd rather have a bench stone but if you want to practice free handing without spending anything you have that option.
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I know, there is just something about the setup that "doesn't do it for me" I think the system is great for quickly sharpening my crappy kitchen knives and a few other things, but wanted to get used to just regular flat plate sharpening... also probably overthinking things.
 
redwood22 said:
I know, there is just something about the setup that "doesn't do it for me" I think the system is great for quickly sharpening my crappy kitchen knives and a few other things, but wanted to get used to just regular flat plate sharpening... also probably overthinking things.
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I own a sufficiency of sharpening equipment but yesterday I was touching up my good kitchen knives with a sharpmaker.
For thicker knives I do like to use a ceramic benchstone because I can feel when I have the angle right and the apex just begins to touch the stone.
 
I'm a big fan of the shapton stones, just picked up the 2k grit pro model. No soaking and gives a nice polished edge without being excessive. I use diamond plates to dress up any severe abuse. 3v isn't too bad to sharpen...
 
my absolute favorite way to upkeep my S!K and other edges is an 8oz strip of leather with .05 micron skin side, 3-5 micron suede side diamond paste treated. Works great in the commercial kitchen, home, and in the field. When it comes to 3v I've found the dmt diafold with superfine to be sufficient to bring back the edge with a couple passes, but also touch up nicely on my softer japanese whetstones as well, diamonds just a little faster.

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I love the spyderco medium stones. They have sapphire in them I think. They sharpen verybwell with a light touch will get you a toothy feeling shaving sharp edge. Then a few passes on the fine stone followed by stropping on the leather pouch case with the stone in it.
 
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