Lets talk GEC!

Yeah, They're alright those 73 models ;):cool:

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Do you gentlemen have any blade play on those backlocks? Some time ago I talked to someone who has a Northfield #72 and he complained not only aboud up-and-down, but also quite anoying site-to-side play.

Secondly, I see there is a lot of love for patterns #15, #77, #66, #72, #73 ... and many more. I wonder, is there any GEC pattern you think was rather a miss?
 
Ripcord 82 said:
Yep,apples for the patina. I figure on using the knife right from the start and don't want to deal with red rust along the way.
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My break in procedure always starts with a reluctant sharpening, then reluctant cutting of fruit at work and constant handling (out of admiration). I get a decent patina eventually. I don’t understand my reluctance; all my knives are users. I don’t really believe in having a knife just to have it. Maybe one day I’ll just go for it like you did. Overnight in an apple, I’m guessing? How do you like that wharnecliff? I’ve been eyeballing those 48’s that are still out there, but I’ve been holding back since I already own a case slimline trapper that is approximately the same thing, minus the wharny.
 
EngrSorenson said:
My break in procedure always starts with a reluctant sharpening, then reluctant cutting of fruit at work and constant handling (out of admiration). I get a decent patina eventually. I don’t understand my reluctance; all my knives are users. I don’t really believe in having a knife just to have it. Maybe one day I’ll just go for it like you did. Overnight in an apple, I’m guessing? How do you like that wharnecliff? I’ve been eyeballing those 48’s that are still out there, but I’ve been holding back since I already own a case slimline trapper that is approximately the same thing, minus the wharny.
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Well to tell you pal,I only stuck the blades in the apple for like 30 minutes and found that ample time. So I'd say 20 to 30 minutes is fine.I did it to speed things up on the patina because it is really super humid here in Ohio right now and I can see rust forming on everything on the farm already. I'm even rusty.
This is my first Trapper type knife with a warnecliff blade and I haven't used it much at all.This knife is relatively very new. I have a couple Case knives that are trappers but they have the spey blade. Frankly, I am a fan of the spey blade because I have used that blade for skinning and especially for cutting the breast out of wild turkeys that I have hunted. I can't think of a better blade for that purpose. I can see the warnecliff being used quite a bit for cutting up all the cardboard that has to go into the burning barrel though. Thing of it is with about any pocket knife I own, is, I always seam to go for the clip point first because when I draw the knife from my right pocket, my left thumb goes right for the clip point because the nail nick is right there, front and center. So the clip point gets used the most and the secondary gets used for the best tool for the job on that rare occasion.Wild turkeys are rare and cardboard boxes are plenty.;)
 
EngrSorenson said:
My break in procedure always starts with a reluctant sharpening, then reluctant cutting of fruit at work and constant handling (out of admiration). I get a decent patina eventually. I don’t understand my reluctance; all my knives are users. I don’t really believe in having a knife just to have it. Maybe one day I’ll just go for it like you did. Overnight in an apple, I’m guessing? How do you like that wharnecliff? I’ve been eyeballing those 48’s that are still out there, but I’ve been holding back since I already own a case slimline trapper that is approximately the same thing, minus the wharny.
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I wouldn't recommend overnight in an apple. Depending on acidity, I think you could get some red rust that way. Just using the knife to cut fruit (and maybe wait a few extra minutes each time before wiping the blade clean) will give you a nice patina.

A dip in warm vinegar will do the trick too, if you want to start with an even grey. I don't bother to do that very often, as I like to see the patina develop gradually. The reason the bolsters can still look shiny is because they are made of nickel, rather than steel, so they don't take the same patina.
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SnailOffTheTrail said:
Do you gentlemen have any blade play on those backlocks? Some time ago I talked to someone who has a Northfield #72 and he complained not only aboud up-and-down, but also quite anoying site-to-side play.

Secondly, I see there is a lot of love for patterns #15, #77, #66, #72, #73 ... and many more. I wonder, is there any GEC pattern you think was rather a miss?
Click to expand...
I think the side to side play is common on the lock backs due to the fact that the spring is so weak on them if the blade is in to tight it will not shut (edited to fix auto correct mistake) on its own. I’ve had a few 42’s and a couple 72’s and on most of them I took out the blade play but it was a fine line between no blade play and the blade not closing. Invariably they close slower after taking out the blade play. Up and down blade play is a different story with all the edges being squared off it would not function if everything in the lock area were too tight. You’re only option there is to get a different one and hope for the best.
 
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r8shell said:
I wouldn't recommend overnight in an apple. Depending on acidity, I think you could get some red rust that way. Just using the knife to cut fruit (and maybe wait a few extra minutes each time before wiping the blade clean) will give you a nice patina.

A dip in warm vinegar will do the trick too, if you want to start with an even grey. I don't bother to do that very often, as I like to see the patina develop gradually. The reason the bolsters can still look shiny is because they are made of nickel, rather than steel, so they don't take the same patina.
EyKe2I0.jpg
3LBB9fx.jpg
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Yep..I agree with all this. One thing that with using vinegar or mustard though, I would usually make a baking soda paste and spread around on the blade to counteract the acid from those . It'll stop the forced patina process before it does turn to red rust.
 
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