Lets talk GEC!

So in the “What’s Happening” photo album it looks like there’s two pictures of white bone “ready for shaping” for the upcoming #92 Eureka jacks.

My reserved #92 is the TBD jigged bone... do we think those handles have yet to be dyed and jigged? OR AM I GOING TO BE SO HAPPY WITH MY NEW SMOOTH WHITE BONE TIDIOUTE #92?!?!?!?
 
EngrSorenson said:
So in the “What’s Happening” photo album it looks like there’s two pictures of white bone “ready for shaping” for the upcoming #92 Eureka jacks.

My reserved #92 is the TBD jigged bone... do we think those handles have yet to be dyed and jigged? OR AM I GOING TO BE SO HAPPY WITH MY NEW SMOOTH WHITE BONE TIDIOUTE #92?!?!?!?
Click to expand...
Yes
Edit: sorry I’m being sarcastic, there’s a good chance they’re just waiting to get dyed and jigged but you never know.
 
Stropping Young Lad said:
I saw them at the Rendezvous. I didn’t buy one, because... I mean... I was there to SELL strops, not buy them! ;)

They looked super solid, though. And the price is a bargain. I think Jack Russell leather made them. They make all of GEC’s sheathes, and do really nice work.
Click to expand...
I just saw them on the website, I missed them at the rendezvous. I’m not sure I’ll get one but they do look nice, a little on the big side.
 
Hey everyone, just figured I'd show off a knife box I'm working on to keep all my treasured GEC knives in. I've never done sophisticated joinery before, so I thought I'd jump right into dovetails. This being a box to house my knives, I also thought it would be appropriate to hand carve the joints. I used a "zero bevel" flexcut for the majority of the work at home and a very flush ground bevel Case Seahorse Whittler while I was at work. Now that I'm done with this stage I realized I could have very comfortably done the same work with my #35, #93 or #06. I freehand sawed the edges, so anything that doesn't appear to be completely flush is due to that- you can still see the tear out from the back saw I used on the end grain. Doesn't have to be fancy, just has to be sturdy, meaningful, and hold my precious knives.

At this point I'm agonizing over "glue or not to glue", since the joints are very snug but I don't want anything bad to happen to my GECs. Tomorrow I'll think hard about the top and bottom; ya know, because you wouldn't want to plan that out ahead of time. o_O:rolleyes::D It's made out of poplar, if anyone is wondering. It's not very pretty, but it's sure cheap and easy to work.

oTUoU1h.jpg
 
EngrSorenson said:
Hey everyone, just figured I'd show off a knife box I'm working on to keep all my treasured GEC knives in. I've never done sophisticated joinery before, so I thought I'd jump right into dovetails. This being a box to house my knives, I also thought it would be appropriate to hand carve the joints. I used a "zero bevel" flexcut for the majority of the work at home and a very flush ground bevel Case Seahorse Whittler while I was at work. Now that I'm done with this stage I realized I could have very comfortably done the same work with my #35, #93 or #06. I freehand sawed the edges, so anything that doesn't appear to be completely flush is due to that- you can still see the tear out from the back saw I used on the end grain. Doesn't have to be fancy, just has to be sturdy, meaningful, and hold my precious knives.

At this point I'm agonizing over "glue or not to glue", since the joints are very snug but I don't want anything bad to happen to my GECs. Tomorrow I'll think hard about the top and bottom; ya know, because you wouldn't want to plan that out ahead of time. o_O:rolleyes::D It's made out of poplar, if anyone is wondering. It's not very pretty, but it's sure cheap and easy to work.

oTUoU1h.jpg
Click to expand...
The sheepsfoot on the 35 is one of my go to carving blades. Ground thinner than most GEC blades. Just a great blade.
 
EngrSorenson said:
Hey everyone, just figured I'd show off a knife box I'm working on to keep all my treasured GEC knives in. I've never done sophisticated joinery before, so I thought I'd jump right into dovetails. This being a box to house my knives, I also thought it would be appropriate to hand carve the joints. I used a "zero bevel" flexcut for the majority of the work at home and a very flush ground bevel Case Seahorse Whittler while I was at work. Now that I'm done with this stage I realized I could have very comfortably done the same work with my #35, #93 or #06. I freehand sawed the edges, so anything that doesn't appear to be completely flush is due to that- you can still see the tear out from the back saw I used on the end grain. Doesn't have to be fancy, just has to be sturdy, meaningful, and hold my precious knives.

At this point I'm agonizing over "glue or not to glue", since the joints are very snug but I don't want anything bad to happen to my GECs. Tomorrow I'll think hard about the top and bottom; ya know, because you wouldn't want to plan that out ahead of time. o_O:rolleyes::D It's made out of poplar, if anyone is wondering. It's not very pretty, but it's sure cheap and easy to work.

oTUoU1h.jpg
Click to expand...

What you need is some grooves and the best way to make them is using a little Record 043 plough plane. Its a fantastic tool and so much fun to use.

https://paulsellers.com/2014/01/plough-planes-ploughing-just-thoughts/

Be warned, if you thought knife collecting was addictive, wait’ll you try old tools!
 
Jiki said:
The sheepsfoot on the 35 is one of my go to carving blades. Ground thinner than most GEC blades. Just a great blade.
Click to expand...

I 100% agree. Carving is my chief use for my knives only because of the frequency that I do it. My #35 was my first GEC (despite my, then, distrust of carbons steels corrosion tendencies) merely because those two blades seemed like a perfect general use combo. I love that sheepsfoot blade.

Camillus said:
https://paulsellers.com/2014/01/plough-planes-ploughing-just-thoughts/

Be warned, if you thought knife collecting was addictive, wait’ll you try old tools!
Click to expand...
Looks like a link to Paul Sellers website; I’m a huge fan of his. I once watched a 30 minute video of him planing a timber to square by hand... just because it’s like watching a magician. Once I see him do something I feel like I can do it, too. His video on hand cut dovetails is why my box now has dovetails. Truly a gift to the human race.
 
EngrSorenson said:
So in the “What’s Happening” photo album it looks like there’s two pictures of white bone “ready for shaping” for the upcoming #92 Eureka jacks.

My reserved #92 is the TBD jigged bone... do we think those handles have yet to be dyed and jigged? OR AM I GOING TO BE SO HAPPY WITH MY NEW SMOOTH WHITE BONE TIDIOUTE #92?!?!?!?
Click to expand...

EngrSorenson EngrSorenson Those white bones you see in the pics haven’t been through processing other than the rough shaping phase. They will be jigged and dyed. We won’t see anymore pics of the bone until it’s finished and being fit to covers. GEC is very secretive about the jigging and dye processes so that info/pics are never shared.
 
Fox79 said:
Those white bones you see in the pics haven’t been through processing other than the rough shaping phase. They will be jigged and dyed.
Click to expand...
Well dang- I got excited because smooth white bone is a cover that I know I’d love. Right now the “TBD” could be anything. That’s exciting but scary.
 
How's the pull on your stockman? I bought the same in stag and all but 1 blade is a nail breaker. Granted I'm a nail biter, but I'm just curious.
 
Auglaize117 said:
How's the pull on your stockman? I bought the same in stag and all but 1 blade is a nail breaker. Granted I'm a nail biter, but I'm just curious.
Click to expand...

What year is your stag stockman from? I have a 2018 version that has pretty soft pulls. Softer than I would like.
 
Not sure, I assume 2018-2019. I got it from DLT trading last week. I just don't have the nails to pull all the blades.
 
Humm,I don't know how to rate the pull of the blades of my Stockman as far as the number rating. I'll just say that I wouldn't want the pulls to be any heavier as I like them just the way it came. All three blades feel like they have the same pull. They are hard without being to hard. Another way of saying it I guess is high end of soft and low end of hard. I have a couple knives with hard pulls, hard enough to make it a pain to open. Those pretty much stay in a drawer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top