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- Jul 10, 2009
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Yes it is, and despite it being 9mm, it's quickly become one of my favorite handguns!
Once Dave Brown does my IWB sheath to carry it with the light, it'll be my daily carry gun.
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Lets talk sharp.
- Thread starter 230grains
- Start date
Yes it is, and despite it being 9mm, it's quickly become one of my favorite handguns!
Once Dave Brown does my IWB sheath to carry it with the light, it'll be my daily carry gun.
-- you got it all! 
one helluva long bullet
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2005
- Messages
- 10,038
I have a factory fresh combat grade BWM. The Busse site says it's convex. It's not really very sharp IMHO. It barely slices paper clean and will hang up if you don't get a good size, untouched peice of copy paper to test it.
I have a Junglas that slices the tiniest of slivers of a sheet of paper side by side. It will slice curves etc. - very sharp. I want my Bushwacker to be that sharp.
It's never cut anything but about a 1/2 dozen cuts into copy paper. So how do I get this beast to live up to it's name "Busse" and be full convex hair popper?
I have strops with green paste - CrOxide and some bare leather strops. All are mounted on wood. I also have dmt diamond and sharpmaker stones but I don't think that's right for a convex is it?
Do I just keep stropping it until it's really sharp. It's disappointing to hve the Junglas cut rings around it.
Sorry to compare the two but I couldn't believe the difference so I need your help please?
I have a Junglas that slices the tiniest of slivers of a sheet of paper side by side. It will slice curves etc. - very sharp. I want my Bushwacker to be that sharp.
It's never cut anything but about a 1/2 dozen cuts into copy paper. So how do I get this beast to live up to it's name "Busse" and be full convex hair popper?
I have strops with green paste - CrOxide and some bare leather strops. All are mounted on wood. I also have dmt diamond and sharpmaker stones but I don't think that's right for a convex is it?
Do I just keep stropping it until it's really sharp. It's disappointing to hve the Junglas cut rings around it.
Sorry to compare the two but I couldn't believe the difference so I need your help please?
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2009
- Messages
- 3,094
The BWM CG has a convex primary grind transitioning into a flat bevel IMO, not a convex edge. Most busse edges seem to be done on a slack belt though, with some convex to them.
Edges from the factory can be hit or miss, I've had all come sharp NIB except an NMSFNO which wasn't from the factory, but was untouched. I've had small hang ups as well, but generally they're all at the very least paper shaving sharp. The comp grade sarsquatch however was EXTREMELY sharp.
If you want your Bushwacker to be a full convex hair popper you're going to need to full convex it. Knock down the shoulder and blend the edge into the primary grind. Move up in grits and strop at the end. Busse ships out knives with edges that are fairly obtuse to prevent MOMOS like me from smacking rocks with them, but IMO they all come "sharp", just on the thicker side.
Blend the primary and secondary bevel, thinning the edge in the process, polish it up and it will be a lightsaber.
If you really feel its an unacceptable sharpness and dont want to sharpen it yourself, send it in and they'll send it back to you very sharp.
Edges from the factory can be hit or miss, I've had all come sharp NIB except an NMSFNO which wasn't from the factory, but was untouched. I've had small hang ups as well, but generally they're all at the very least paper shaving sharp. The comp grade sarsquatch however was EXTREMELY sharp.
If you want your Bushwacker to be a full convex hair popper you're going to need to full convex it. Knock down the shoulder and blend the edge into the primary grind. Move up in grits and strop at the end. Busse ships out knives with edges that are fairly obtuse to prevent MOMOS like me from smacking rocks with them, but IMO they all come "sharp", just on the thicker side.
Blend the primary and secondary bevel, thinning the edge in the process, polish it up and it will be a lightsaber.
If you really feel its an unacceptable sharpness and dont want to sharpen it yourself, send it in and they'll send it back to you very sharp.
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- Nov 24, 2005
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- 10,038
Thanks 230grains,
I didn't think it was full convex since it appeared to have a distinct bevel on it. I don't need it full convex. I just want it to be really sharp.
So how about using my ceramic rods? Or, my fine, x-fine, and xx-fine dmts all in a trailing/stropping motion, followed by leather stropping?
I didn't think it was full convex since it appeared to have a distinct bevel on it. I don't need it full convex. I just want it to be really sharp.
So how about using my ceramic rods? Or, my fine, x-fine, and xx-fine dmts all in a trailing/stropping motion, followed by leather stropping?
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- Jul 10, 2009
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- 3,094
I would sharpen it however you feel comfortable to be honest, just like any other knife. What i've found IMO is that is sharpens up very easily and holds an edge quite well. If you follow the factory bevel with the fine, x-fine, and xx fine dmts then strop you should be able to get your edge VERY sharp. Your ceramic rods should do fine maintaining the edge, as will stropping. If you want, you could even go a little coarser and thin the bevel a few degrees, I wouldn't go any less than 15 though with a chopper, murphys law and all.
As I said, it's common place for Busse knives to ship with fairly obtuse edges, which isn't a sign of poor quality, but rather them knowing that some people are going to get one, and start smacking concrete with it for no reason. A little thinning and some polishing, and you'll have yourself one of the best knives on the planet.
As I said, it's common place for Busse knives to ship with fairly obtuse edges, which isn't a sign of poor quality, but rather them knowing that some people are going to get one, and start smacking concrete with it for no reason. A little thinning and some polishing, and you'll have yourself one of the best knives on the planet.
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- May 31, 2010
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Its neat and sharp. I think I can take the Large Knives for $40? Is that okay?
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- Sep 17, 2009
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I just read ALL of your posts. Something is very wrong here. Post flagged.
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
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tiresmokindad, please keep buying and selling out of the discussion forums, and in the Exchange, where they belong.
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Looks great! I think your skills are definitely good enough to charge for your time. Not everyone can sharpen well. As soon as I have time I want to fully convex my FFBM. How did yours turn out? How much material did you have to remove?