Light, slim Bowie knives

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Sep 6, 2012
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I have a soft spot for Bowie knives. Many times they are only too large, big choppers. My favourites are those with a slimmer blade, light and balanced. I have a Cold Steel Trailmaster with a black blade that I intended to modify to my taste, to strip the coating off and make a new wood handle. Meanwhile I have been looking at some Buck knifes, the Chip Flint and Special with cocobolo handle.

Tell me your opinion of these and show your light, slim bowies.

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Funny, I have a Buck 102, that was my first fixed blade as a child. I got it in the early '90s. Unfortunately, my then stepfather was a bafoon of a man, and had me using it to dig in the dirt while metal detecting. It is obviously dull from that digging, but since I never sharpened it, it still has the original edge, and other than some dirt, is in perfect shape. I should clean the dirt off, give it a proper sharpening, and use it as a knife for the first time in its life.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of bowies, but like you, I prefer a slim, balanced blade. Not once in my 28 years camping, backpacking, fishing, or hunting, have I ever needed to use a knife to chop down a 3" diameter tree, stab a hole in a car hood, or pry open my back door.

The chip flint seems nice, but more than 2x the price for a different blade finish?! I would go for the cocobolo if I were you. At least you are getting a nice wood handle and brass hardware out of the deal. From what I can tell, the chip flint is just a woodsman (phenolic/aluminum handle, 420HC blade) with a finish that imitates a worn carbon steel blade, while still being stainless. Doesn't seem worth 2x the price to imitate something you can get for cheaper...
 
Check out (removed non BF member dealer link)

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He makes some crackers!
 
Well, I gotta echo what stingray has said.

As far as Buck goes, I've had great luck with Buck knives for most of my life. A Buck 102 woodsman bought in 1969 saw constant service until 1999 when it was replaced by a new one. It dressed opening day Buck's, (the kind with antlers) a ton or two of fish, squirrel, rabbit, and lot's of campsite work. The Buck is a rugged little knife that never let me down, but I never used it for lumber operations or run into a rogue Chevy that needed stabbing. It was used as a knife for 30 years, and it did all cutting jobs just fine. Since 1999 the new 102 has done all my sheath knife work. If it was too small, then that's what they make folding saws for.

But...I think it's shameful for Buck to charge a lot more money for a weird finish on a knife. The chipped flint is what I guess is their attempt at a certain market share. On the other hand, I don't mind paying a bit more for a nice rosewood handle and brass trim. As for the Buck special, I saw a ton of them sold in Army PX's in the late 60's and early 70's. They were a popular knife for purchase in Vietnam, and stood up to lots of use. Trust me, nobody can beat on stuff and abuse it like a GI. They stood up well.

The only criticism I had of the Buck sheath knives, was the phenolic handle was too slick if it got wet or slippery with blood. I took 200 or some sandpaper, and roughed up the black phenolic, and it worked like a charm. Even fish slime didn't loosen up the grip. I sanded in a random criss crossing pattern that looked like hell, but the knife didn't go anywhere when cleaning that fish.

Carl.
 
I've had a buck 119 that looks similar to the knife u posted with the cocobolo handles but with silver aluminum guard and pommel and a black composite handle. It has served me very well in all types of outdoor adventures and has kept me alive on a winter camping trip! It has turned many a chicken, duck, turkey, and rabit into a nice dinner and even finished off a water moccasin or two. I find it to be a nice size for a fixed blade, very sturdy and just big enough to give it some capabilities that my pocket knife lacks. You won't be disappointed. Oh and it holds an edge like you wouldn't believe!! Goodluck with ur purchase!
 
I have had a 102 and a 121 Buck knives for decades, and they have "cleaned," skinned and butchered a great many more than 200 medium game (deer and pronghorn) animals. I have quite a few very nice fixed blade knives, but they never seem to come out of the woodwork when some work needs to be done; it is always my 2 old trusty ugly Bucks. They have never let me down and will outlive me. Really good knives (tools!).
 
How about this one: Ka-bar leather handle Bowie. Any opinions? Price is much lover than Buck.

5573_KA1236-01.jpg
 
I've got a Buck 119 that I use an awful lot, if we're calling that a bowie. My favorite bowie, though, is my old Western W49, that has been re-hafted after a previous life as a throwing knife claimed its furniture. Lemme try to grab a snapshot this evening.
 
I dont know if you,d call this a Bowie, but this 65-70 marked Case is definitely the slimmest,lightest big knife i own.. FES

VERY!..sharp too ...

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How about this one: Ka-bar leather handle Bowie. Any opinions? Price is much lover than Buck.

5573_KA1236-01.jpg
I have an old chrome ka-bar marine hunter. It's thinner than a buck special and I think cuts better for that reason (though I love my Bucks too). They still make one in stainless.
The one you're looking at is a USA-made Ka-bar, how bad can it be? They're handsome knives, and I like the long handles with shallow finger grooves: they orient you without dictating your grip.
 
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If "slim and light" is the goal, you might gravitate more towards "bird and trout" patterns than bowies. Here's one from Northwoods:

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I think you gotta check out the Lite Hunters from Queen. The "Aged Honey Amber Stag Bone" is absolutely stunning. Most models are D2 steel, but the smallest Trout knife is Queen stainless. This one is the Bear Head (not my photo):

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How about this one: Ka-bar leather handle Bowie. Any opinions? Price is much lover than Buck.

http://www.kabar.com/knives/detail/61
The KaBar blade alloy is similar to what Buck uses, but Buck runs their blades a couple of points higher. Also, Buck knives made after 2000 have an ultra hollow grind to them. The Buck will likely cut better. And I think you would also notice the extra hardness points.
 
How about this one: Ka-bar leather handle Bowie. Any opinions? Price is much lover than Buck.

5573_KA1236-01.jpg

This one pulls me toward it. Lately, I've been thinking I need a bigger fixed blade and this might just fit my bill.

Ed J
 
Damn my bad memory, but years ago I read an article about Bowies. I remember a sentence about the blade geometry and thickness of blade, about how the thick "tactical" blades are a fairly recent phenomenon. Back then people realised that knife is a cutting and piercing tool, not a sharpened crowbar.

Playing with european swords I have seen some pretty nice originals and replicas. The best of them could be quite thick at the handguard, but had extreme distal taper so they were almost paper thin at the tip. The balance and feel of those was something to behold, they literally floated in the hand. I quess that is the case with good bowies too.
 
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I have a specific question. Above knarfeng mentioned that Buck hardens their steel a notch higher than Ka-bar (talking about stainless steels).

I have seen and handled some bowies made by Linder. I believe most of them are made of 440A. To my knowledge this steel is not inferior, but does not take as sharp an edge and does not hold an edge as well as example Buck. Am I right? I ask this question because I have become particular about making my edges as sharp as I can and experiment with sharpening. Linder Kentucky is made of 440C so it should hold an edge better. Should I steer clear of knives made of lover grade 440 steels?

I will go ahead with getting a decent, not too large bowie style knife sometime soon and need this information.
 
I would have to refer to AG Russell's crib-sheet on properties of steels.
Show us when you've made your choice.
 
I would have to refer to AG Russell's crib-sheet on properties of steels.
Show us when you've made your choice.

Thank's for a tip. http://www.agrussell.com/Steel_Guide/a/73/

440A 55-57
440B 57-59
440C 57-59

So it seems that there is a max 4 point difference between 440 steels. 420 HC that I believe Buck uses is on the 56-58 range. Of course, hardening process makes the difference. To my knowledge Buck should be quite consistent in their quality. I had a Buck Ranger folder that I sold and a Buck Canoe that I use mostly in the office. Both came sharp and did a good job.

Allright, it seems my choise will be Buck Special (119) with the Cocobolo handle. I have handled some Buck fixed blades and they felt light considering the size. Is this also the impression of others?
 
IT SEEMS TO ME, a 6" knife like the buck 119 Special is not really a "Bowie" knife yet. Mine is from about 1967 if memory serves and it is just a bit short to be a "Bowie" IMNHO. The BUCK Bowies start at the 120 GENERAL and the 124 FRONTIERSMAN it surely does seem to me and the 120 in particular is light and sleek as can be with a really superbly shaped clip blade. The 124 is noticably heavier and it's handle is just a tiny bit too square in my hands, but still, one fine long blade knife that gets it's job done in fine style. ALL of 'em are great American made knives.
 
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I have a specific question. Above knarfeng mentioned that Buck hardens their steel a notch higher than Ka-bar (talking about stainless steels).

I have seen and handled some bowies made by Linder. I believe most of them are made of 440A. To my knowledge this steel is not inferior, but does not take as sharp an edge and does not hold an edge as well as example Buck. Am I right? I ask this question because I have become particular about making my edges as sharp as I can and experiment with sharpening. Linder Kentucky is made of 440C so it should hold an edge better. Should I steer clear of knives made of lover grade 440 steels?

I will go ahead with getting a decent, not too large bowie style knife sometime soon and need this information.

I think there are two things going on here. The first is heat treatment which makes the steel hard (or brittle) and carbide size. Large carbides can be more durable in terms of abrasion resistance (e.g. cutting rope) but can cause an edge to crack if exposed to high lateral forces (e.g. hitting bone or working wood with side pressure).

My understanding is that 440A, 420HC and Sandvik 12C27 are all small carbide steels and 440C is a larger carbide steel. Nice picture comparing 12C27 and 440C here. Generally, small carbide steels will take a finer edge and large carbide steels will take a "toothier" edge. Which is better depends on what you cut most often and, above all, user preference.
http://www.smt.sandvik.com/en-us/pr...p-products/knife-steel/knife-steel-knowledge/

Heat treat is done by the knife maker, so same steel can vary from knife maker to maker. My understanding is that old Schrade USA Schrade+ was 440A run close to 58Rc. Likewise, Opinel's 12C27 and Buck's 420HC. I can't tell a huge difference between then in terms of ease of sharpening, edge retention or toughness.

Buck's old 440C requires considerably more work to sharpen and the has noticeably longer edge retention, ime.

For day to day use, I prefer the finer grained steels. For my hunting knife, I prefer 440C.

FWIW, I have the Case 316-5 and while it is a very light and comfortable knife to use (and beautiful too), the Case Tru-Sharp (420HC at 56Rc, iirc) is noticeably softer than Buck's 420HC. It's easy to roll the edge and to burr it when sharpening. For this style of knife, I would look to Buck and not Case.
 
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