Linerlocks - Which ones you trust or don't trust

I was thinking that roofing scenario probably calls for a fixed hawkbill, but I do know the situation my M16 went into the mud many times to cut pesky roots when I was a landscape foreman.

I guess I fall into the Yablanowitz camp - my first knives were traditional, so I learned quickly what you could and couldn't do.
 
The hawk bill works good but shingle grit destroys the blade. When using utility hook blades you just switch to the other end and toss them.
 
I'm a bit old school with all of this, preferring the old fashioned linerlock on my GEC to that of my Spyderco Gayle Bradley, here's why;

1. My ball detente on my GB is wearing flat, therefore blade retention when closed is reducing, increasing the risk of accidental opening in my pocket (yes with the right tools I can push the ball out, turn it and press it back but still!).
2. The lock bar on the GEC goes all the way across and the blade is kept open by the back spring most of the time, therefore wear isn't an issue. I have slipjoints and work with my knives as if they are slipjoints but there is that odd occasion when I am glad that safety net is there, for example when I am working in thedark and pi**ing rain trying to put emergency signs up with cable ties (a job that involves working quickly with the tip of the knife).
3. I'm not looking for a strong lock, I don't pry doors off of tanks. The linerlock GEC also keeps the half stop of its slipjoint cousin, another safety feature.

Anyone want to buy a GB...? Only slightly worn;)
 
I have several liner locks, and a few framelocks, but it is the linerlock that's in question so I'll limit my comments to it. I've had and used linerlock knives since they first became available in the 80's. I've never had a knife to accidently close due to a linerlock unlocking while in use. I've a couple though that the lock did not properly work. A push-relax-push-relax motion on the back of the blade would cause the lock to move to the left of the blade tang and close..........one was a custom. Of course these went back to the place's they came from!

At any rate I learned that giving the locking leaf a little more bend to the right would give it a tighter lockup, and make the lock stiff enough that you pretty much had to make a conscious decision to push it over.

The linerlocks I have are;

PRODUCTION

1. Fallkniven PXL
2. ZT0200 (2)
3. Spyderco Perrin PPT
4. Spyderco Vallotton Subhilt
5. Ontario Hossom Retribution 1

CUSTOM

1. John W. Smith SD-3
2. Mike Irie Model II
3. Dustin Turpin Repentance.

I have no problems with any of the above linerlocks. ALL have had some slight bend added to the locking leaf that has stiffened the lock to my preference.

But the best advice I could give has already been given........treat any knife with a lock like it doesn't have a lock.
 
I only have a few linerlocks. Never had any issues with them, and most of the stories I've heard about locks failing haven't been when the knife was actually being used; it was when people were testing the lock to see if they could MAKE it fail. I kinda think that's dumb. Sure, a light spine whack here and there is fine. My ZT0350 and HTM Gun Hammer both have very beefy linerlocks. I am not worried about them failing.
 
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