Linseed oil on micarta handle?
- Thread starter ns66
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It won't harm it, and will most likely darken the color significantly. That's up to you to decide if it looks better...
I wonder if linseed oil will harden so it won't feel soft and smooth? linseed oil can be removed if I don't like it right?
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It most likely will harden over time (or at least become somewhat tacky). It will be hard to remove, as Micarta is porous and will absorb the oil readily.
the reason I don't like mineral oil is it won't dry so handle feels "dirty", so drying oil like linseed oil may be a better option, so I think, never tried it before
yeah I saw those with mineral oil on it, but didn't see any using linseed
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If you are trying to seal the handle, you may be better off using a varnish or shellac. Of course, this will change the texture of the Micarta and make it harder, but you won't have to worry about it absorbing any more water/oil/dirt.
That would defeat the purpose of Micarta IMO, however. I like natural Micarta and the soft "organic" feel and texture it develops naturally with use.
That would defeat the purpose of Micarta IMO, however. I like natural Micarta and the soft "organic" feel and texture it develops naturally with use.
19-3ben
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I have done it many times.
The micarta soaks up the BLO, and you let it polymerize over the course of a few days. it darkens the micarta, and does seal it up somewhat so that it keeps a more uniform dark and even color, rather than darkening where you grab it because of the oils in your hands.
It feels pretty much the same, but I like that it helps seal it up a bit and make it a little less porous.
The micarta soaks up the BLO, and you let it polymerize over the course of a few days. it darkens the micarta, and does seal it up somewhat so that it keeps a more uniform dark and even color, rather than darkening where you grab it because of the oils in your hands.
It feels pretty much the same, but I like that it helps seal it up a bit and make it a little less porous.
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I also put danish oil on my becker/micarta handles.
i like the feel quite a bit.
makes them feel Richer and Warmer. Less plasticy feeling. Almost feels like a good hard wood.
i like the feel quite a bit.
makes them feel Richer and Warmer. Less plasticy feeling. Almost feels like a good hard wood.
sounds great, I like micarta but it soaks up everything is really a drawback at least to me, I would give it a try, using linseed or maybe tung oil, if the handle feels pretty much the same that would be great
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19-3ben
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Yeah it feels the same, or at least not significantly different.
Whatever micarta is soaking up, it just at the very outer surface anyway. The fibers on the end can soak stuff up, but remember it's impregnated with resin, so it's not like anything is really soaking in. Either way, hitting it with some BLO just means that the very outer surface has already absorbed the BLO, leaving less room for it to absorb anything else.
Bill DeShivs
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Or, you can just wax it occasionally.
That's a pretty good idea. I've done a LOT of wood and metal projects with linseed oil. When compared to mineral oil, linseed will give you a finish that is more resistant to water, dirt, and even extreme heat. It will become substantially darker over time.
Use boiled linseed oil if it's convenient. Boiled linseed oil takes a long time to dry; raw linseed oil takes a looooong time to dry. Plan on giving boiled linseed oil a week in a warm, dry environment.
Do NOT apply it like paint. Apply it like stain. You can slop it on as thick as you want, let it soak in if you want, but then wipe it off to leave a thin film. Applying it thick like paint will leave a gooey mess that doesn't ever seem to dry. You know all the warnings you read cautioning you against throwing all your oily rags into a corner of the garage? Linseed oil is what they're talking about. The oil readily oxidizes, creating heat, sometimes enough to spontaneously combust. I take the oily rags to the trash cans away from the house and lay them out flat until trash day.
An alternative to linseed oil is tung oil. I've only been using it for a year, so my experience is limited. It dries more quickly, in about a day or two. It seems easier to rub it out and apply additional coats, but I could be mistaken. If you go this route, get REAL tung oil. Most of the stuff you see on the shelves in big box stores is really just varnish with a little bit of tung oil added.
yeah, i may give tung oil a try, the thing that worries me is, for micarta, the "loose" fiber on the surface is white color, that's what gives micarta texture and contrast, if i oil it, it will darken across the board, thus reduce contrast, i don't know if that will give better look or worse, it would be nice if i can find sample micarta to experiment first
that's also a good idea actually, it will lose the "soft touch", but will make it similar to g10 I guess
marthinus
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Somewhat. Depending on the quality thereof they can both get glossy.
It does sound though that your concern is the fibres and what I recommended is based on that.
If it is something like an ESEE they are bead blasted if I remember correctly to expose those fibres and a good sanding can make a world of difference.
Micarta will still discolour through oils on the hand etc as time goes on and is not UV stable so it will change.
