List locks based on strength

J

Juramentado

Joined
Aug 23, 2003
Messages
185
if you had to list down the most sturdy and trustworthy type of locking mechanism for a folding knife, 1 being the one you would have more trust on not failing and 5 being on the low end of the list, how would you list them?

I'm just talking about the theoretical strength of the lock design, not considering any brand preference or the steel used in the lock.
 
I own lockbacks, frame locks, liner locks and ball locks. To my experience the ball lock seems to be the best with the frame lock close behind. But then again I've never has a lock failure...if you stay away from cheap knives and remember that a folder isn't a fixed blade (for the exception of my Ontario XM-1) you shouldn't have problems...
 
Last edited:
Treg said:
Isn't liner lock and frame lock the same??? In doubt I'm asking???
Click to expand...

No, liner locks have the piece of metal INSIDE the handle scale that pushes over and blocks the tang.

Frame locks actually have a piece of the handle scale that moves over.
 
Don't forget stud-locks (i.e., Ken Onion's Spec/Speed Bumps, Offset, Mini Mojito).
 
Here we go, with my reasoning:

1. Compression lock--the stop pin or lock bar must break for it to fail.
2. Frame lock-- the harder you squeeze the knife the more force that keeps the locking bar in place. Minimal parts to fail.
3. Axis/ball lock--like a compression lock except there is a spring (coil or omega) that must hold the locking piece in place.
4. Lock back-- depends on the fitting of the lock bar and the strength of the spring.
5. Liner lock-- quality of fitting is everything. A poorly fitted liner lock can be made to fail very easily.
 
Thank's Eventer289, I though since they work the same way that they were the same...
 
Here's mine by preference anyway.I've never used/abused a folder to lock failure.

1.Frame-lock
2.Back-lock
3.Axis-lock
4.Ballbearing-lock
5.Button-lock(autos)

I'm not even going to list liner-locks.I just despise them,no matter how well they are made.I sold off every last one that I had.
 
elkins45 said:
Here we go, with my reasoning:

5. Liner lock-- quality of fitting is everything. A poorly fitted liner lock can be made to fail very easily.
Click to expand...

Any poorly fitted lock can be made to fail easily.

The one locking knife I have that I know the handle will fail before the lock does is the Cold Steel Twistmaster. A ring lock like the Opinel but much heavier material.
 
I've had the most reliability from the Axis lock. I dont have an ArcLoc or Ball Lock, but I figure they are as good. My lock backs have been fouled with lint and not locked, and liner locks have a host of issues, though for the most part the ones I've had were as reliable as a lock back. My old Vapor had a frame lock that was as good as my Axis Locks.

It may help to make the distinction between reliability and strength. All but my lock backs and liner locks have locked every time they were opened. Some liner locks would engage, but took no more pressure than a slip joint to force them closed.
 
Absintheur said:
Any poorly fitted lock can be made to fail easily.

The one locking knife I have that I know the handle will fail before the lock does is the Cold Steel Twistmaster. A ring lock like the Opinel but much heavier material.
Click to expand...

That's a valid point. I was sort of going with the assumption that you are more likely to encounter poorly fitter liner locks in cheap knives. I've also seen some very poorly fitted lock backs in flea market junk knives.

I would guess the Twistmasters' weakest point would be either the pivot pin itself or where the pin hole is drilled through the handle. I wouldn't be surprised if an Opinel wooden handle failed before the lock.

I didn't include them in my rankings because they don't automatically engage like the other types do. I tend to forget to lock my Opinel when I use it.
 
A Spyderco ball lock is a compression lock with the ball pushed into place rather than a tang arm.. of a regular Compression lock. It compresses against the same anvil stop pin..
A frame lock is identical to a liner..the liner is the same whether it be inside a handle scale or it IS the handle scale. It is the same engineering.

Back locks come in several varieties..

my new Puzzle Lock ( as seen in Tactical Knives magazine Jan 08, Nov 08 Messer magazine Mar 08) is as strong or stronger than what I / Spyderco had done in my Gunting series with a Compression lock...

be safe
Bram

the post of a not as good engineered lock done very well is better than good egineered lock design poorly executed is true..You need good lock engineering executed well..Its why cheap knives are dangerous: locks, blades, screws, tolerances poorly executed...
Of course all you have to lose is your fingers..so no worries
 
I'm another fan of the AXIS lock.

I like lockbacks and framelocks too, don't get me wrong. But my favorite bar none is the AXIS lock.

Sturdy, reliable, convenient. If I could only choose one lock it would be the AXIS lock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top