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Lock Attributes
- Thread starter stabman
- Start date
You must work in an office.
A good lock should be strong, self-adjusting, easy to clean, have few parts, resistant to corrosion, engage positively with little risk of a 'false engagement' whereby the lock seems to be engaged but isn't fully, and easily accessible and easy to engage/disengage.
I'm personally indifferent with regards to how much effort it takes to disengage a lock. If you think unlocking a Triad for example is difficult, try a Combat Troodon.
Corrosion resistance and ease of cleaning matters much more to me than it used to, which is why I currently don't own any D/A front openers or Axis locks.
Liner locks and frame locks are not exceptionally strong, but my tasks don't involve heavy prying or chopping where the risk of over strike or parts flexing until disengagement occurs.
Button locks do not self adjust well. As the stop pin slightly deforms, the button starts to creep and stick.
Unfortunately most locks don't offer what I think a lock should be. But many locks suit my personal needs just fine. I'm happiest with a thin linerlock with a little bit of stick to it.
I'm personally indifferent with regards to how much effort it takes to disengage a lock. If you think unlocking a Triad for example is difficult, try a Combat Troodon.
Corrosion resistance and ease of cleaning matters much more to me than it used to, which is why I currently don't own any D/A front openers or Axis locks.
Liner locks and frame locks are not exceptionally strong, but my tasks don't involve heavy prying or chopping where the risk of over strike or parts flexing until disengagement occurs.
Button locks do not self adjust well. As the stop pin slightly deforms, the button starts to creep and stick.
Unfortunately most locks don't offer what I think a lock should be. But many locks suit my personal needs just fine. I'm happiest with a thin linerlock with a little bit of stick to it.
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- May 4, 2002
- Messages
- 2,536
Note I've made TriAd locks easier to unlock(for me) by taking the knife apart, then SLIGHTLY bending the spring back, to reduce the force applied. This makes a good lock useable by a week thumbed person. I don't thing this lessens the lock strength much.
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- Nov 9, 2009
- Messages
- 44,314
Good idea. Thumb tends to get raw in a hurry for some people when unlocking.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
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- 4,120
Locking the knife open reliably is most important, but considering how strong and reliable so many locks are now, I add in ease of use. Locks that let the Blade swing when toggled like axis, compression or ball bearing are unbelievable to me. Back locks are great especially combined w a 50/50 choil like spyderco dragonfly as they make one hand closing safe and easy.. I don't like liners and frames much, but still have a few.
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- Feb 10, 2014
- Messages
- 4,120
Leaving them half opened for a while can help too.
I have really low requirements for a lock, simply because I don't use folders for anything major.
With that in mind, all I really need the lock to do, is keep the blade from falling closed, or be strong enough that the force generated by cutting through cardboard doesn't snap the blade closed (which can occasionally happen with slipjoints).
With that in mind, my other priorities are ease of use, and I guess reliability. I personally don't get peoples infatuation with strong locks, as I haven't ever had any type of folding knife try to fold on my while I've been using it, so I guess I just don't see the need.
I prefer linerlocks, and framelocks, as for me they are so much easier/safer to open and close one handed than a lockback. I've not tried any other lock types though (tri-ad, compression, ball bearing, button, axis, etc, because commonly those knives that have those locks are beyond what I'm willing to pay for a knife).
With that in mind, all I really need the lock to do, is keep the blade from falling closed, or be strong enough that the force generated by cutting through cardboard doesn't snap the blade closed (which can occasionally happen with slipjoints).
With that in mind, my other priorities are ease of use, and I guess reliability. I personally don't get peoples infatuation with strong locks, as I haven't ever had any type of folding knife try to fold on my while I've been using it, so I guess I just don't see the need.
I prefer linerlocks, and framelocks, as for me they are so much easier/safer to open and close one handed than a lockback. I've not tried any other lock types though (tri-ad, compression, ball bearing, button, axis, etc, because commonly those knives that have those locks are beyond what I'm willing to pay for a knife).
Having had a couple of close calls with slipjoints (SAKs) before (from me not paying adequate attention to what I was doing), I can certainly appreciate having a lock. Something that will prevent accidental closures and is easy to use would be my preference. My favorite lock type is the Axis lock. The lock itself isn't the biggest factor in determining how much I like a knife though. Many of my favorites are actually frame locks and back locks.
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2012
- Messages
- 29,050
I love one hand operation. Most of the time when I need to cut something I am already holding it in my other hand. This is especially true when camping and what not. My favorite lock for this is the PM2 and compression lock. It is just so easy to flip it out, use it, and shut it with one hand. Same with the axis lock but compared to the compression lock the axis lock has an inherent flaw: it depends on the omega springs. Now don't get me wrong, I love the axis lock, but its reliance on those omega springs could be considered a maintenance/dependability issue. I also don't consider frame/liner locks fully one handed as they do take much more manipulation for me than the compression/axis lock (though I do have a bunch of liner/frame locks).
I guess I am not really considering lock strength in this because all the lock does for me is an extra safety. If I need to rely on that lock to keep my knife open I am doing something I ought not to with a folding knife. At the end of the day when I need the most functional locking knife, I walk out the door with my PM2 and a fixed blade.
I did this same thing with my AUS8 recon 1. It worked just fine. This newer version with the better steel is easier to disengage though.
I guess I am not really considering lock strength in this because all the lock does for me is an extra safety. If I need to rely on that lock to keep my knife open I am doing something I ought not to with a folding knife. At the end of the day when I need the most functional locking knife, I walk out the door with my PM2 and a fixed blade.
I did this same thing with my AUS8 recon 1. It worked just fine. This newer version with the better steel is easier to disengage though.
There are lots of good locks out there, and for most of us any of them do the job of keeping the knife from closing when we don't want it to, which is a good thing.
Cold Steel has one of, if not the strongest lock designs, so you can't blame them for marketing it to their favor. They do a great job of making liner/frame locks look bad by exposing the weaknesses of the design in the videos. This is compounded by the fact that so many liner/frame lock knife companies hype their products as big bad "hard use" knives. So there's marketing hype on both ends, CS just does a better job of exposing theirs.
I understand why makers use liner/frame locks, they're efficient (cheap) to manufacturer and convenient to use one handed. However, we see more posts about problems and inconsistencies with liner/frame locks than EVERY other type of lock combined. I'd much rather see more compression, axis, ball bearing, and new locks being used/developed, that still allow one handed operation. I can appreciate strong lock designs that yield more consistent product QC, and for me liner/frame locks have proven themselves to be at the bottom of that list. Every knife that I've ever had to send back to the manufacturer was due of liner/frame lock issues.
I look at Cold Steel Triad lock as the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon of locks. You can buy tons of other 4x4's that ride smoother, have more conveniences, power, gas mileage, cargo room, social status, etc. and those other 4x4's will do what 99% of people will ever use their 4x4's for. However, they won't take you anywhere near the places off road the Jeep will and survive. For some people that extra strength and durability is worth the trade offs, even if they likely won't use it frequently.
Cold Steel has one of, if not the strongest lock designs, so you can't blame them for marketing it to their favor. They do a great job of making liner/frame locks look bad by exposing the weaknesses of the design in the videos. This is compounded by the fact that so many liner/frame lock knife companies hype their products as big bad "hard use" knives. So there's marketing hype on both ends, CS just does a better job of exposing theirs.
I understand why makers use liner/frame locks, they're efficient (cheap) to manufacturer and convenient to use one handed. However, we see more posts about problems and inconsistencies with liner/frame locks than EVERY other type of lock combined. I'd much rather see more compression, axis, ball bearing, and new locks being used/developed, that still allow one handed operation. I can appreciate strong lock designs that yield more consistent product QC, and for me liner/frame locks have proven themselves to be at the bottom of that list. Every knife that I've ever had to send back to the manufacturer was due of liner/frame lock issues.
I look at Cold Steel Triad lock as the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon of locks. You can buy tons of other 4x4's that ride smoother, have more conveniences, power, gas mileage, cargo room, social status, etc. and those other 4x4's will do what 99% of people will ever use their 4x4's for. However, they won't take you anywhere near the places off road the Jeep will and survive. For some people that extra strength and durability is worth the trade offs, even if they likely won't use it frequently.
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- Jul 4, 2014
- Messages
- 6,191
I am not a big fan of liner locks but, the three knives I carry most are all liner lock based. Kinda funny really.
The type of lock is only one part of the game for me. I also consider blade steel, heat treatment, styling, ergonomics and price when I purchase a knife. Reputation of the manufacturer may also come in to play.
I love the attributes of the Axis Lock and think it is the cat's meow. I really don't see why all the fuss over Omega spring issues. I as of yet have not had one break, much less two. I may be missing something but the system will still work with a broken spring, won't it? If both springs break, you are screwed, I know. But, what are the chances of both springs breaking?
The type of lock is only one part of the game for me. I also consider blade steel, heat treatment, styling, ergonomics and price when I purchase a knife. Reputation of the manufacturer may also come in to play.
I love the attributes of the Axis Lock and think it is the cat's meow. I really don't see why all the fuss over Omega spring issues. I as of yet have not had one break, much less two. I may be missing something but the system will still work with a broken spring, won't it? If both springs break, you are screwed, I know. But, what are the chances of both springs breaking?
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2007
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- 21,367
If both springs break, you can jam a piece of twig behind the bar, keeping it from closing.
it would actually then be even stronger than with the springs intact...one might even call it a virtual fixed blade.
Actually, I just checked, and you can jam a twig in there even when the springs are good.
There's your quota of largely unnecessary info for the day.
