Looking for a decent field axe/hatchet

[littleknife]

..but a carpenter's axe is flat and not crescent shaped.. ..how's that a good chopping axe in the field?

Unless you want to log 10"+ diameter trees by the dozens, they are just fine, and for splitting they will be superior to any regular hatchet. These are much heavier than the usual American carpenter's half hatchets with their typical 22 oz heads.

If weight is not a concern, these would be ideal tools for chopping, splitting, rough carving, feather sticks etc. You can think about them as hatchets crossed with mini mauls and drawknives.

Since the head of this Wetterling model is so heavy (2.2 lb compared to the Gransfors Bruks carpenter's 1.5 lb), you dont have to swing too much, you just let the weight of the bit to do the job and you just control the movement.

 

[littleknife]

Looking for something fully forged and sub 2.5 lbs. if possible. It will primarly be used for backpacking long distances. Any suggestions? Thanks!

I would choose the Wetterlings hunter models: SAW 16H (1.5 lb head, 15" handle) or the SAW 20H (same head on a roughly 19" handle).

If you want cheaper, American made, go to Sears and buy the Craftsman 1.25 lb camping axe:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ammers&psid=YAHOOSSP01&sid=ISx20070515x00001c

Roughly one out of every 4-5 has a nice handle grain orientation and good head alignement and basic grind.

If you don't want to chop too thick trees, and your priorities are kindling, feather sticks, 1-3" poles for shelter, you will be fine with the Craftsman 22 oz. Half Hatchet:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ammers&psid=YAHOOSSP01&sid=ISx20070515x00001c

These are made by Vaughan & Bushnell, will be softer than the Swedish hand forged ones, but you have the Craftsman warranty.

You can pick up the same half hatchet under the Vaughan brand name too for a buck more (e.g. at Home Depot):

http://hammernet.com/vaughan/pages/products/professional-curved-claw-hammers/hatchets.php#rigbuilder

Some people like it:

http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthread.php?p=399329#post399329

others do not:

http://www.amazon.com/review/R2DZC4H722FDDE


On a side note: the Rig Builder's Hatchet has a longer handle, but the head is so wide around the eye, that it reduces the splitting efficiency IMHO.


One thing with hatchets is that people should not swing them like maces in a battle against an armored knight. Try to be accurate rather than forceful.
Just my humble opinion.

 

[MagicDot]

Unless you want to log 10"+ diameter trees by the dozens, they are just fine, and for splitting they will be superior to any regular hatchet. These are much heavier than the usual American carpenter's half hatchets with their typical 22 oz heads.

..I'm going to only open up a can of worms again by saying that I don't believe a flat faced "carpenter's" hatchet will fill the proper tooling category of a field axe.

..the carpenter's hatchet is flat faced for splitting shingles and long flat boards.. hence it weighing more and being of a wider stance in the the head.. ..the crescent shape of a field axe is shaped to maintain less of a surface area for the cutting material to stick to and hence makes chips better.

..its your tool and your work. use it as you see fit. I just don't agree that a carpenter's hatchet will fill the need of the OP.

 

[littleknife]

MagicDot,

I did not want to open a can of worms either!

I was just reflecting on the statement that the Wetterlings carpenter's axe would not be a good field axe. J_Curd has one, used it and found it to be good for his purposes. I have one, used it and found it to be good for field axe - at least for my purposes. :thumbup:

Even though it has the shape of the Swedish carpenter's axes, it is heavier than either the American half hatchets or the similarly shaped GB carpenter's axe. It has a thicker blade too. The only way to describe it is ...robust. And this is an understatement. Unlike most tomahawks, it won't stick too much in the wood even during splitting. It can shave off nice curls, make fuzzy stick, split thicker rounds, chop easily through branches or slimmer tree trunks. It is a better hammer than any other axe I have seen.

Yes, it is not a logging tool. But it is very efficient for any task a backpacking axe or hatchet has to do.

Its only downside is that it IS heavy to carry around.

That is why I have suggested in my next post the Wetterlings hunters or the Craftsman hatchets. The Craftsman/Vaughan carpenter's half hatchet is thinner and will stick more, but for light duty tasks is very appropriate, IMHO much more than any of the Cold Steel or even other tomahawks. Also, it is quite short (13-14" long), relatively light (less than 2 lb total weight), cheap ($20-21 in my location), and the Craftsman tools have excellent warranty.
The straight edge is unsuitable for felling thick tree trunks, but honestly, how much do you expect to do that while backpacking? It is unklikely that you have to fell thick trees to survive. If that would be the case, you won't be much better off even with a rounded edged small axe or hatchet either. You will need a full size axe, or even better a huge saw.
What you might need a hatchet for is processing some smaller diameter firewood (branches, saplings), kindling, maybe shelter poles of 1-2" diameter. The half hatchet will do all this sufficiently well.
Also, you can regrind the shape of the edge if you prefer a more rounded line.

I hope I did not spill out too many worms from the can.

Best regards,

littleknife