Looking for a good felling axe

Funny this topic came up. I'm working on one of my all-time favorite axes after I get in from work. It will be done surly by the weekend and I will post up the project in the "New Cut Projects" thread.

The axe I'm working on is a Kelly Perfect, 3 pound double bit. The axe was made by my favorite maker, and it's also my favorite pattern, and weight for all around felling, bucking, and limbing in hard and softwoods. I'm putting it on a premium white hickory handle made from a riven, and air-dried stave. I can't hardly wait to give it a try!
 
Droshi said:
I'm in NC near Raleigh, here's what my land looks like, pretty representative of most everything:
18358702_10158708570970711_4205620116384292894_o.jpg


They look like what I would have called red pine, not much for white pine I believe, but could be pitch pine or something else.
Click to expand...

A boys axe will take care of most if not all of those down with ease by itself. Not what I had in mind for felling. Technically, I guess it is felling, but shading into brush clearing. Even closer to what I was talking about with the cheap axes, which lately is cleaning up small locust stands. Pine will be easier on bit, but you still want a file or puck with you, even with good steel.
 
Droshi said:
I'm in NC near Raleigh, here's what my land looks like, pretty representative of most everything:
18358702_10158708570970711_4205620116384292894_o.jpg


They look like what I would have called red pine, not much for white pine I believe, but could be pitch pine or something else.
Click to expand...
From the looks of that picture you could use a boys/pulp ax.
 
BG_Farmer said:
A boys axe will take care of most if not all of those down with ease by itself. Not what I had in mind for felling. Technically, I guess it is felling, but shading into brush clearing. Even closer to what I was talking about with the cheap axes, which lately is cleaning up small locust stands. Pine will be easier on bit, but you still want a file or puck with you, even with good steel.
Click to expand...
Beat me by a second, lol.
 
quinton said:
Funny this topic came up. I'm working on one of my all-time favorite axes after I get in from work. It will be done surly by the weekend and I will post up the project in the "New Cut Projects" thread.

The axe I'm working on is a Kelly Perfect, 3 pound double bit. The axe was made by my favorite maker, and it's also my favorite pattern, and weight for all around felling, bucking, and limbing in hard and softwoods. I'm putting it on a premium white hickory handle made from a riven, and air-dried stave. I can't hardly wait to give it a try!
Click to expand...
what pattern? just askin to know if i should appreciate mine more, i have both patterns in 3 pounds
 
Most likely loblolly pine, but it could be something else. A good sharp bit will blaze though that stuff...especially in the warmer months. You could also grab one of councils double bits (3.5 lb-er). They do swing great due to their balance, and having two bits ensures less honing/sharpening during long days.
 
BG_Farmer said:
A boys axe will take care of most if not all of those down with ease by itself. Not what I had in mind for felling. Technically, I guess it is felling, but shading into brush clearing. Even closer to what I was talking about with the cheap axes, which lately is cleaning up small locust stands. Pine will be easier on bit, but you still want a file or puck with you, even with good steel.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't doubt that a true felling axe isn't really needed for most trees here. I'm not felling massive trees, but I still want a felling axe!

I've used "cheap" axes my whole life...was looking for something better this time since I had a lot more work to do. Just felling a tree or two I know I could use whatever and get it done.

I've also used a double bit in the past, but never really saw the advantage, maybe I didn't notice the balance as much as everyone says. But overall I think a good Dayton pattern is what I'll go for. The Velvicut is kind of top running right now as I don't know how to select something better.
https://www.amazon.com/Amer-Felling-Axe-Hickory-35-3/dp/B005EN1V24
 
sounds like you'v got your heart set on a velvy, when you get to this point, its minute differences, the guys here are saying "go vintage, it's nicer steel" it may be nicer steel, but the velvicut is good steel too, the only difference is probly edge retention thats barely different. when it comes down to it, it's mostly handles your buying if you're spending this much. hate to say it, but i think this has brought out some elitism in us. clearly, you do not seem to have an issue with shelling out enough for a velvicut so, i say go for it,its probably about the same result either way, maybe a few more sharpenings over the year
 
phantomknives said:
sounds like you'v got your heart set on a velvy, when you get to this point, its minute differences, the guys here are saying "go vintage, it's nicer steel" it may be nicer steel, but the velvicut is good steel too, the only difference is probly edge retention thats barely different. when it comes down to it, it's mostly handles your buying if you're spending this much. hate to say it, but i think this has brought out some elitism in us. clearly, you do not seem to have an issue with shelling out enough for a velvicut so, i say go for it,its probably about the same result either way, maybe a few more sharpenings over the year
Click to expand...
I wouldn't say heart set. I've seen a John Neeman and that may inspire a little lust, but at least there I know the extra is going into fit and finish.

Again, I'm not opposed to vintage, but looking at eBay, everything looks the same to me. I'm not saying an axe has to look cosmetically perfect, but I just don't know by looking at a picture that it will be what I want.

If I could have found a Gransfors I may have bought that already. But since the Velvicut seems readily available, I'm still trying to see what else is out there and if I missed anything similar. I don't mind spending the money, but I don't consider $50-100 on the head saving money to then need to handle something. Or $100 on a different axe only to need to re-profile it.

Now that I have better ideas of my options, I may just see what comes up for sale on the boards for a while.
 
Contact user jblyttle on this forum. He can get you a nice vitage axe ready to go at a very reasonable price.
 
The Velvicut is a nice choice the blend of edge holding and toughness is good for a working tool of that size, I've been using mine alot. Its a beautiful thing to just be able to buy it, take it out of the box and use it.

The Council comes sharp but could be sharper also the handle comes with a light coat of boilded linseed oil, but can use an extra coat

The Gransfors felling axe has a better finishing job on the handle and the bit comes razor sharp and will out perform the 5160 on the Council in edge holding, however it will take longer to sharpen and any time you hit the ground or abuse it expect to see chips, however with expert use it will last longer.

My choice is the Council Tool but the Gransfors is very nice.

Also, look at the arvika 5 star racing pattern from big Bear tools in Canada.

It's essentially a Connie on a 32" haft made but hults bruk.

That's on my wish list
 
Here is what I went with. It's not a final decision as I certainly will have more axes to come!

Can't figure out how to attach here, so see this gallery: http://imgur.com/a/KbcUD

Looks like an original handle to me. Any suggestions on what is needed other than sharpening?

Planning to try to lightly clean up the rust on the surface but leave patina. Sharpen. Sand down handle then apply linseed oil.
 
Droshi said:
Here is what I went with. It's not a final decision as I certainly will have more axes to come!

Can't figure out how to attach here, so see this gallery: http://imgur.com/a/KbcUD

Looks like an original handle to me. Any suggestions on what is needed other than sharpening?

Planning to try to lightly clean up the rust on the surface but leave patina. Sharpen. Sand down handle then apply linseed oil.
Click to expand...
It's not an original handle. Looks to be a replacement that wasn't properly replaced. That's good news though, as the handle can be removed, and the head hung right.

On a side note, quality don't get much better than a Kelly Perfect.
 
Thanks, I'm not sure, it almost looks like "True Temper" is there rubbed off, but I'm not sure. It's tight on there, but obviously doesn't fully extend, so will want to replace now that I know it's not original even if it's a Kelly handle.

http://imgur.com/a/btiId
 
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