Looking for drill bit suggestions.

T

TheEdge01

Joined
Apr 3, 2015
Messages
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To put it bluntly, my drill bits suck. I have tried brand after brand and sometimes they work and other times they don’t. I bought some cobalt drill bits a while back but they poop out after a few uses. I would like to get some good dependable bits that can be used over and over. I may have ruined one of my junky bits drilling through some 15n20 earlier today. I shopped around my area and couldn’t find anything that really caught my eye. So apparently I’ll have to order online.
Can you please point me in the direction of a good drill bit brand??? Thanks guys
 
I use the Norseman CN-TECH NITRIDE-CRYO M7 (not sponsered). I got them on eBay pretty cheap. I have probably drilled 250-300 holes with the .125 bit in .125-.25 thick annealed or normalized but not hardened tool steel and another couple hundred holes in non ferrous metal. It still cuts like new. I've been very impressed with how these bits perform on metals, they don't do well in wood or composite.
 
Skiller1nc said:
I use the Norseman CN-TECH NITRIDE-CRYO M7 (not sponsered). I got them on eBay pretty cheap. I have probably drilled 250-300 holes with the .125 bit in .125-.25 thick annealed or normalized but not hardened tool steel and another couple hundred holes in non ferrous metal. It still cuts like new. I've been very impressed with how these bits perform on metals, they don't do well in wood or composite.
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Excellent! I will take a look at those. Thanks!!!
 
12345678910 said:
real cobalt bits should not be smoked with a few uses.

Stop drilling hard steel.

Slow down.

250 rpm is plenty fast
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The hardest steel I normally drill is 15n20 and the thinner stock is around 45 hrc according to AKS. Regardless of my drilling speed, the bits only cut through the surface then stop cutting and start spinning.
 
TheEdge01 said:
The hardest steel I normally drill is 15n20 and the thinner stock is around 45 hrc according to AKS. Regardless of my drilling speed, the bits only cut through the surface then stop cutting and start spinning.
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Yea, stop that.
That's wood mill bandsaw at spring steel hardness.

It's not at an annealed hardness.

http://www.norsemandrill.com/Jobber-Length-Drills.php
Those are good made in usa, but really I use the lookalikes imported from africia and they work great.
 
https://www.amazon.ca/Cobalt-M42-Dr...ywords=drill+hog+cobalt&qid=1594215282&sr=8-2

I've had good luck with these M42 Cobalts from Drill Hog but I hear over and over that norseman are the recommendation as above. I have never tried the norseman so I can't compare.

Watch a few you tube videos, get a drill gauge from amazon and practice sharpening on a cheap bit. Once you get the hang of it you'll always be 20 seconds away from a sharp bit.
 
I am not sure about the advantages of drill bit sharpening. I use Bosch Hss-Co and they are about $2 a piece at 1/4" and last forever. Not sure I can motivate time or money on sharpening that instead of tossing it and grab a new one when it is done?
Large bits with morse tapers are way more expensive and that may be another issue though, but I haven't gotten any yet.
 
12345678910 said:
Yea, stop that.
That's wood mill bandsaw at spring steel hardness.

It's not at an annealed hardness.
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I think this is an issue that should probably be in the stickies somewhere. I read somewhere that 15N20 can air harden in thin sections. I have ruined many drill bits and bandsaw blades with damascus billets until I started adding a full anneal using 15N20 specs to my post forging process. Since adding this step, my billets cut and drill like butter.
 
weo said:
I think this is an issue that should probably be in the stickies somewhere. I read somewhere that 15N20 can air harden in thin sections. I have ruined many drill bits and bandsaw blades with damascus billets until I started adding a full anneal using 15N20 specs to my post forging process. Since adding this step, my billets cut and drill like butter.
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AKS says to use consistent pressure while drilling this steel. I’ve tried this and still end up ruining drill bits. What you read about 15n20 has proven to be true in my experience.
 
TheEdge01 said:
The hardest steel I normally drill is 15n20 and the thinner stock is around 45 hrc according to AKS. Regardless of my drilling speed, the bits only cut through the surface then stop cutting and start spinning.
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I have drilled hundreds hole in 15N20 in that hardness without problem.Most quality HSS drill bits are good for up 50HRC , they will not last forever but ....... You hardening steel /thin layer on surface , if you cut off that layer with some carbide burr bits you can proceed with driling with HSS drill bits /because you not use right pressure and probably right speed .You must keep drill bits to cut all time ..............so they will not generate heat to much.
 
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Agree with the recommendations on Norseman, and also on the drilling the 15n20.
 
this is just a little off-topic .... but my problem has been often with off-straight drills (the end wobbles when drill rotates). But then I have mostly bought basic sets from home depot and a few off of amazon. Do these Norseman drills have a good straight runout??
 
Cushing H. said:
this is just a little off-topic .... but my problem has been often with off-straight drills (the end wobbles when drill rotates). But then I have mostly bought basic sets from home depot and a few off of amazon. Do these Norseman drills have a good straight runout??
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Are you sure it's the bits causing the wobble, and not your chuck?
 
Cushing H. said:
this is just a little off-topic .... but my problem has been often with off-straight drills (the end wobbles when drill rotates). But then I have mostly bought basic sets from home depot and a few off of amazon. Do these Norseman drills have a good straight runout??
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The runout is most likely from your drill press. The shorter bits can help reduce the effect but only so much.
 
TheEdge01 said:
AKS says to use consistent pressure while drilling this steel. I’ve tried this and still end up ruining drill bits. What you read about 15n20 has proven to be true in my experience.
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Drill bit can be sharp on tip and dull little bit farther on cutting taper/edge.......
Cushing H. you really need to buy some good HSS drill bits ..........:) You will not regret .
 
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