Looking for drill bit suggestions.

scott kozub said:
https://www.amazon.ca/Cobalt-M42-Dr...ywords=drill+hog+cobalt&qid=1594215282&sr=8-2

I've had good luck with these M42 Cobalts from Drill Hog but I hear over and over that norseman are the recommendation as above. I have never tried the norseman so I can't compare.

Watch a few you tube videos, get a drill gauge from amazon and practice sharpening on a cheap bit. Once you get the hang of it you'll always be 20 seconds away from a sharp bit.
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I just picked up a 115 bit set of M7 (high moly) Drill Hogs for about $160. So far all of the bits I've used have been very sharp and run true. I've read that they may actually be re-branded Norseman, but who can say. They also offer a lifetime warranty against broken drill bits if you register your set when you receive it. I've read where guys weren't getting replacements after sending them in, but I've also read where guys were. I'm assuming those that didn't receive replacements maybe didn't send them to the right address, or hadn't registered their box number. Either way, I'm not terribly worried about it, as the bits weren't terribly expensive to begin with, and still seem significantly better than most other brands I've tried in (and definitely below) that price range.

FWIW, I also recently bought a 15 piece set of M35 (5% cobalt) bits branded under "COMOWARE" on amazon. They seem to be pretty good bits for the money as well.
 
Redmeadow Knives said:
The runout is most likely from your drill press. The shorter bits can help reduce the effect but only so much.
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Actually (surprisingly maybe) I really think the problem is with the bits, not the press. I have some rather large/long bits that run very true, and some quite smaller bits (from the questionable set) that just wobble, and wobble, and wobble (but like I said, they were cheapos off of amazon).

Ouch ... those Norseman bits are expensive! $80 or more even for a small set? I think I will need to just focus on a few specific sizes that I know I will need (for drilling holes for pins and a core for Wa handles, and get just those bits in the more expensive (higher quality) suppliers....

Natlek said:
you really need to buy some good HSS drill bits ..........:) You will not regret .
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Natlek - I do not doubt you at all! I have been questioning my bits for a while....
 
Cushing H. said:
Actually (surprisingly maybe) I really think the problem is with the bits, not the press. I have some rather large/long bits that run very true, and some quite smaller bits (from the questionable set) that just wobble, and wobble, and wobble (but like I said, they were cheapos off of amazon).

Ouch ... those Norseman bits are expensive! $80 or more even for a small set? I think I will need to just focus on a few specific sizes that I know I will need (for drilling holes for pins and a core for Wa handles, and get just those bits in the more expensive (higher quality) suppliers....


Natlek - I do not doubt you at all! I have been questioning my bits for a while....
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If they're 3 flat bits, very well could be in the bits. I've seen lots that didn't run real true.
 
Over here Dormer bits are many times refered to as the golden standard. Haven't tried them yet though.
 
I’ve recently been getting Topline jobber bits off of amazon for special incremental sizes ... and so far they seem pretty good -anyone else have any longer term experience with them?

there was a thread a while ago where Stacy said the knife maker really only needs 3-4 sizes of bits (corresponding to pins and corbys). That really does seem to be where my usage is heading...)
 
So the name made me suspicious , so I checked ... and it does turn out that Norseman is located about 8 miles away from me. Go figure... unfortunately they do not have an on site sales room, an so I need to buy through a distributor (of which there are several local). Oh well...
 
You can look into ARTU bits, they are part friction drill so have to be run fast and hard whereby they heat up the steel softening it before cutting through. They will cut hardened steel though.
 
3-4 sizes för knifemaking? Most tang holes I make are for 6 mm pins and 8 mm lanyard tubes. Some 3 mm pins as well. And 1/4" for some mosaic pins that aren't metric. The tang hole is made a tad bigger than the pin. So here I am already counting 8 different size drill bits. I also have 4 and 5 mm pin stock around, that's another 4 sizes..
 
For my folders I probably only use 4 size drill bits and 2 size counterbores. And I use 2 different size pivots depending on model
 
Scaniaman said:
3-4 sizes för knifemaking? Most tang holes I make are for 6 mm pins and 8 mm lanyard tubes. Some 3 mm pins as well. And 1/4" for some mosaic pins that aren't metric. The tang hole is made a tad bigger than the pin. So here I am already counting 8 different size drill bits. I also have 4 and 5 mm pin stock around, that's another 4 sizes..
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I typically use three sizes of pins: 3/32", 1/8", and 3/16" (which I needed for those filet knives - of which one more is coming :-) ). One size of Corby with 7/32" shank. since I have been moving to drill with one special size larger than the raw pin diameters, that means that I mostly drill (metal and handle material) with: #41, #30, #12, and #2 bits (four total). I have not bought it yet, but for drilling cores into Wa handles, for a 3/8" dowel, I should probably buy a letter "V" bit - but I have gotten by without so far.

That makes for a total of 5 bits. I dont think I will go to either smaller or larger Corbys (smaller pins work just fine) .... so I dont, for now, expect that number to change greatly (but that is just for the type of work I am doing....). for all the other odd holes, a cheap Home Depot set seems to work ok.....
 
Lee Hester said:
Can I ask what cutting fluid you guys prefer?
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I don’t use cutting fluid. Check the web .. suggestions as to use it or not are all over the place. Best commentary I found is that fluid is for cooling, and so a drop or two does nothing for that. On the other hand if your RPM is low, and you keep sufficient, and constant, downward pressure so that the bit is continuously cutting spirals, then things won’t get that hot. If not, under any circumstances, you can work harden the steel (done that, not fun).

This has worked for me
 
There was another thread a while back about drill bits: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/drill-bits-for-steel.1702581/

This response applies here as well:

Sam Dean said:
Viking / Norseman are good drills, made in Minnesota. I also like Guhring, MA Ford, OSG, Walter and Hertel (an MSC house brand).

Try to buy from an industrial supply house local to you. MSC, Travers, Fastenal, McMaster, Grainger, and countless local shops. Even the house brands of the industrial distributors are good quality, as most of their sales are to manufacturers. If you can set up an account at one of these places, or know someone with an account, there are significant discounts to be had.

Stay far, far away from the likes of Harbor Freight, Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, and Ace Hardware (and similar chains). Amazon is not really a good source either, unless you already know EXACTLY what you want.

Personally, I prefer (uncoated, HSS) screw machine length drills for metal. They're shorter and more rigid than jobber length and make a more accurately sized hole. And don't waste your money on a coating, like TiN or TiAlN. You have to use a CNC machine to get any real benefit.

I'm not sure what you're drilling, or planning on making. If it's something more precision (like a folder pivot), remember a reamer is the only way to get a round and accurately sized hole. I only make fixed blades (for now) and still use reamers on my pin holes to get the right fit.

Here are some links to check out:

https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/=c4d64ddd2e6340e9964929ed89690896k4y9i4bf

https://www.travers.com/stub-drills/c/297815/

https://www.fastenal.com/product/cu...347?categoryId=602347&level=3&isExpanded=true

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...crew-Machine-Length-Drill-Bits?navid=12106190
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