Luong La, Bluntcut Metalworks. Multiple steels, multiple hardnesses, multiple testers

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bodog

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Hey steel junkies and knife aficionados. I was recently presented with an opportunity to coordinate a test of 5 knives made of multiple steels at various hardnesses, all quoted to be at or above 61 HRC. Three of the five are very similar in geometry with fairly small differences in thickness. One of the five is very thin and one is pretty thick.

One is W2 dressed in purpleheart. It's quoted at 61-62 HRC and built for hard use. It's the workhorse meant to be whipped.

Two is CruForgeV dressed in Golden Amboyna. It's quoted at 61 HRC, almost purely a slicer. It's extremely light. It's one of the lightest knives I've held.

Three is 52100 dressed in Box Elder Burl. It's quoted at 63 HRC and looks to be made for medium duty use.

Four is 1095 dressed in Bocote. It's quoted at 64 HRC and looks to be made for medium duty use. This one seems like a knife I'd like to carry.

And the last, number 5, is M2 dressed in Amboyna. It's quoted at 65 HRC and is made for fine, detailed work. I'd like to have this one as a necker. It's a mean looking little bastard.

I tried to bring in a panel of judges from various backgrounds with different tastes in steels so that certain steel types aren't favored over others. Each has a background in using knives for various reasons. All have stated they've used knives heavily on the job or heavily as a hobby.

Each of the judges can talk about their background if they choose to. You as the reader can see for yourself the types of work they do once they start publishing their results.

Each knife was made by Bluntcut Metalworks. Each has been hardened using his heat treatment process. Most interesting in my mind is whether his superquenching method is the real deal. Each one of these has been superquenched.

This is what he has to say about it:

"I did a quick & dirty etch these blades with FeCl, that’s why they look dark. I made M2 knife a year ago. Other 4 knives received same heat treatment parameters.* I use this same ht formula for 5160, 1084 and pretty all low Cr steels.* Of course, all received Super Quenched (3 seconds quenchant – time to cool a 3/32-1/8” thick blade from 1500F to 120F).*

I changed my ht formula 6 months back because previous ht exhibited low impact toughness.* The difference between ht now vs previously is 1-2um vs sub 100nm grain diameter.* It’s a huge compromise but in the greater scheme of ht industry, a 2um grain diameter for low Cr high carbon (0.9-1.0%) is at least 2 fold better than standard ht (think 2um vs 8+um for 52100 class of steel)."

That sums it up. These are basically mule knives meant to test the hardening process he uses in various steels at various widths with various geometries.

These knives have been experimented on by Luong. They were born as test knives and that's what they still are. While they're nice knives standing on their own, these aren't picture perfect knives. The time, energy, and material have all been donated by BCMW in order for us all to see what, if anything, superquenching may do to steels some of us may be familiar with. It's a pretty ballsy thing for a maker to put up or shut up. Well, he's confident enough to put up.

The judges are as follows:

NJBillK
HwangJino
Heavyhanded
Me2
Ankerson
Bodog (me)

If there's anything good or bad to say, I'm hoping it'll come out in this testing gauntlet. There are some very capable judges on the panel and I look forward to hearing their opinions and results. I want to thank them all for their time and effort.

Here are the knives:

All together with some random knives for size comparison:
a7GohWU.jpg


Spine thickness:
siLWL36.jpg


Compared to a spyderco military:
c8TasFY.jpg
 
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M2 at 65 HRC:
8ofm0BB.jpg


CruForgeV at 61 HRC:
V45g9qy.jpg


52100 at 63 HRC:
cG6bdop.jpg


1095 at 64 HRC:
XpnvScK.jpg


W2 at 61 HRC:
9bX8fK2.jpg


Behind the edge:
AkzrP2A.jpg


M2 knife next to a double edged razor blade:
2HyERKt.jpg


Last shot, group photo:
hOT1JvJ.jpg




They will be sent to the first judge shortly and things will start. Wish the knives luck, they may need it...
 
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Is there any way to get more detail for the M2 heat treatment? Bluntcut is out for a while on a trip, but he may be able to get on and add some detail.
 
I was going to post some info for at least the 52100 hardening process but I figure that should probably come from him if he wants to discuss it publicly. In other words, its not my info to give and didn't want to overstep anything.
 
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iirc (I don't have lab my note/record with me) - M2 ht: normalize; 1 prep thermal; hardening aust 2150F; SQ; Cryo; tempered around 1010-1025F 2x2hrs.
Bodog - if you don't mind, please feel free to post my 52100 ht params. I would do it, once I secure a more convenient way to post while in the country side in Viet Nam.
Is there any way to get more detail for the M2 heat treatment? Bluntcut is out for a while on a trip, but he may be able to get on and add some detail.
 
Please correct this if it's outdated:



"ht: 1650F 15minutes soak, air cool
1575F & 1525 5 minutes soak, plate quench
1490F 5 minutes - ***
1470F 5 minutes - ***
1450F 5 minutes, SQ, Cryo
375F x 2 @30minutes/ea
58rc

experiment notes: minimal Carbon( ~0.5%) in solution for hardening = extra aus fine grain; high % carbide locked-up for wear resistance and high toughness. However 375F was an over-tempered temperature, 250F should be much better for 62-63rc w/o any brittleness."
 
Thanks for trying Bodog! Here is my(:rolleyes: secretive) ht steps:
1. Normalize (very high temp, yup - I enjoy blow up grain size and decarb)
2. Nx thermal cycles between 1600-1450F, some air cool; some quenches (11seconds & 7 seconds oils)
3. Hardening (very low temp, yup - not suppose to able to harden above 40+rc :)), super quench, cool to at least 0F.
4. Temper between 325F - 425F depend on target rc. 2x 1hr.

LOL - not sure my ht sequence offers any meaningful insight.


Please correct this if it's outdated:



"ht: 1650F 15minutes soak, air cool
1575F & 1525 5 minutes soak, plate quench
1490F 5 minutes - ***
1470F 5 minutes - ***
1450F 5 minutes, SQ, Cryo
375F x 2 @30minutes/ea
58rc

experiment notes: minimal Carbon( ~0.5%) in solution for hardening = extra aus fine grain; high % carbide locked-up for wear resistance and high toughness. However 375F was an over-tempered temperature, 250F should be much better for 62-63rc w/o any brittleness."
 
Bluntcut was kind enough to send me two slim test knives so that I could check out his heat treat. One is in M2 and the other in 52100. The one shown below is a fine slicer made of 52100.

It’s difficult to know how to test the heat treat in the steel of a knife like this because it’s not designed for hard use, but for very precise, fine slicing. The spine, above the rearmost cutting edge, is 0.975 inches. The spine has a full distal taper. The spine just behind the tip is 0.017 inches (yes, that’s the spine). It’s difficult to measure the edge width because it’s convex ground, but it’s roughly 0.014 inches at the shoulders. It cuts like a demon. I’ve been using it in my garden, kitchen and workshop, just doing normal things.

Compared to my Shun kitchen knives, it holds an edge much better, but I don’t have a way to quantify it.

I couldn’t figure out how to test the toughness because the blade is so thin. But when I was hanging an axe head one day, I pulled out my EDC Rukus (early S30V) to trim some of the hickory shavings on the haft that were pushed up by the eye. I fit my axe heads tight because I don’t use metal wedges. The Rukus was OK, but it made me nervous because early S30V can chip, and I was trimming hard hickory against the steel axe head. It makes a noise something like fingernails on the chalkboard.

So I thought I’d see how Luong’s 52100 held up, although this is way more of a challenge than I’d normally give to such a slim blade. The blade did not chip and it did the trimming. Honestly, I was very surprised. I started out gently, so if I did do damage, it would be easily repairable. I never didn’t anything too abusive, but the steel held up amazingly well.

But where the knife really excelled was in harvesting string beans. The blade is so thin, sharp and long, that it was easily to poke it into the thick maze of vines and drop one bean after another. Wonderful knife.


thumb_DSC_0047_1024_zpsztvqrlux.jpg



thumb_DSC_0049_1024_zpsorwiyebz.jpg
 
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From what I can see that's a nice looking handle. You mind taking a full shot of it?
 
Bodog and all who are in this testing round, thanks for taking your personal time to do this. Many do not realize that this is very time consuming, when done right. Everyone will benefit from results and I have no doubt that all these steels will do well, especially with excellent HT
 
Bluntcut was kind enough to send me two slim test knives so that I could check out his heat treat. One is in M2 and the other in 52100. The one shown below is a fine slicer made of 52100.

It’s difficult to know how to test the heat treat in the steel of a knife like this because it’s not designed for hard use, but for very precise, fine slicing. The spine, above the rearmost cutting edge, is 0.975 inches. The spine has a full distal taper. The spine just behind the tip is 0.017 inches (yes, that’s the spine). It’s difficult to measure the edge width because it’s convex ground, but it’s roughly 0.014 inches at the shoulders. It cuts like a demon. I’ve been using it in my garden, kitchen and workshop, just doing normal things.

Compared to my Shun kitchen knives, it holds an edge much better, but I don’t have a way to quantify it.

I couldn’t figure out how to test the toughness because the blade is so thin. But when I was hanging an axe head one day, I pulled out my EDC Rukus (early S30V) to trim some of the hickory shavings on the haft that were pushed up by the eye. I fit my axe heads tight because I don’t use metal wedges. The Rukus was OK, but it made me nervous because early S30V can chip, and I was trimming hard hickory against the steel axe head. It makes a noise something like fingernails on the chalkboard.

So I thought I’d see how Luong’s 52100 held up, although this is way more of a challenge than I’d normally give to such a slim blade. The blade did not chip and it did the trimming. Honestly, I was very surprised. I started out gently, so if I did do damage, it would be easily repairable. I never didn’t anything too abusive, but the steel held up amazingly well.

But where the knife really excelled was in harvesting string beans. The blade is so thin, sharp and long, that it was easily to poke it into the thick maze of vines and drop one bean after another. Wonderful knife.


thumb_DSC_0047_1024_zpsztvqrlux.jpg



thumb_DSC_0049_1024_zpsorwiyebz.jpg

Man, that's a beautiful piece of wood
 
Bodog and all who are in this testing round, thanks for taking your personal time to do this. Many do not realize that this is very time consuming, when done right. Everyone will benefit from results and I have no doubt that all these steels will do well, especially with excellent HT

Yeah man. No problem. I like these threads out of everything on the forum.
 
They're being put to work with NJBillK. Sounds like he's going to have some very good info based on what he's already sent me.
 
A quick share on BCMW knife. I have a previous batch of paring in 52100. Should be good but not his latest HT.
Today tested 3 knives, all edges are freehanded and approximate. Tested making few slices to shred credit card.
Resilience at 30° blunted immediately, no visible roll/chip.
Spyderco Gayle Bradley that's very thin, flat ground between edge & top of hollow, resulted in bevel width about 6-7mm (if anyone recalled, marthinus did the same) with 20°microbevel, edge rolled (can see the ripples at apex).
The paring has also about 20° inclusive micro and no visible damage at all. :thumbup:

The GB & paring are the most comfortable to slice the card, with the paring requires less force to use.
 
Chris "Anagarika";15293027 said:
A quick share on BCMW knife. I have a previous batch of paring in 52100. Should be good but not his latest HT.
Today tested 3 knives, all edges are freehanded and approximate. Tested making few slices to shred credit card.
Resilience at 30° blunted immediately, no visible roll/chip.
Spyderco Gayle Bradley that's very thin, flat ground between edge & top of hollow, resulted in bevel width about 6-7mm (if anyone recalled, marthinus did the same) with 20°microbevel, edge rolled (can see the ripples at apex).
The paring has also about 20° inclusive micro and no visible damage at all. :thumbup:

The GB & paring are the most comfortable to slice the card, with the paring requires less force to use.

Nevermind, figured out you were talking about the Resilience knife.

So the 52100 heat treated by BCMW had no visible damage whatsoever while the spyderco Resilience and Gayle Bradley did have visible damage/immediate blunting performing the same simple tasks?

The Gayle Bradley is m4. What steel does the Resilience have?

I wouldn't say cutting credit cards is abusive or a crazy thing for a knife to do. Interesting results. I wouldn't have figured m4 would show damage from cutting thin plastic.
 
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Nevermind, figured out you were talking about the Resilience knife.

So the 52100 heat treated by BCMW had no visible damage whatsoever while the spyderco Resilience and Gayle Bradley did have visible damage/immediate blunting performing the same simple tasks?

The Gayle Bradley is m4. What steel does the Resilience have?

I wouldn't say cutting credit cards is abusive or a crazy thing for a knife to do. Interesting results. I wouldn't have figured m4 would show damage from cutting thin plastic.

Resilience is 8Cr13MoV, and it's one of better one I have (other 8Cr either too coarse, or rolls more easily). My GB has bee sharpened to very thin, which might be the cause. I did put a 20°micro to it though. Running finger to check burr, I can feel it's burring to one side.

Tonight I try shaving with 52100 without touch up. It shaves though not as close/clean as usual. I always shave dry and sometimes before bath (oily skin etc) and have tried to get all my knives to that level. Some cannot achieve that (i.e. D2). My Resilience, Cata2 & SRM in 8Cr can get close but never on par with the 52100 for my shave.

Now after the test, tonight the Resilience & GB can shave somewhat but the remaining stubble needs to be cleaned up with 52100. The 52100 needed more repetition but can clean shave (fresh edge it could do with only 1-2 passes, now it needs 3-4.
 
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