On a real world note, the commonly available kitchen knives - like from most any big box stores - are from stainless steel that is utter crap as cutlery steel - those steels are selected for being cheap, as stainless as they can be while being really cheap, and easy and fast to blank out (easy on the dies and machinery that is). Notice that actually cutting well or being sharpenable are not on this list anywhere. A decently thin blade with a nice thin edge geometry made out of just about any tool steel with any sort of decent industrial heat treatment will cut rings around any of these POS mass market "knives" -- so I doubt you're wasting your time and effort.
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M42 steel saw blades turned into kitchen knives
- Thread starter Billyboyr6
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2011
- Messages
- 52
Thanks ME2, I understand now a whole lot better. And also how pationate you are for this subject. That is really cool.
And really thanks for the tip on the angle to sharpen the blade to. That was my next question. I am going to go ahead with my project of the matching meat fork, and 6 steak knives set. I am convinced that it will be good steel for this
project, it has the right price tag on it, it is already tempered, and hardened, and it has a story behind it. And as far as
Holding an edge, I have a butcherers steel sharpener so if it needs touched up, no problem. Even the best knifes in the world, need the edge touched up every once in a while. Right? So what if I have to do it a little more often. After all,
that is what we knife people love to do anyway. Lol
And really thanks for the tip on the angle to sharpen the blade to. That was my next question. I am going to go ahead with my project of the matching meat fork, and 6 steak knives set. I am convinced that it will be good steel for this
project, it has the right price tag on it, it is already tempered, and hardened, and it has a story behind it. And as far as
Holding an edge, I have a butcherers steel sharpener so if it needs touched up, no problem. Even the best knifes in the world, need the edge touched up every once in a while. Right? So what if I have to do it a little more often. After all,
that is what we knife people love to do anyway. Lol
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2006
- Messages
- 211
The level of craftsmanship you are already attaining deserves decent steel.
Why waste your time with a non cutlery steel? You would be much better off buying some cheap knife steel for twenty dollars, sell one knife then buy more. Steak knives in particular are going to dull fast as they are cutting on plates. Do not compound your misfortune.
Why waste your time with a non cutlery steel? You would be much better off buying some cheap knife steel for twenty dollars, sell one knife then buy more. Steak knives in particular are going to dull fast as they are cutting on plates. Do not compound your misfortune.
You could go ahead and finish your set. Just realize the limitations of the steel you have. For kitchen use it could be weak enough that, in addition to edge rolling you could get bendin if you try cutting thick vegetables like potatoes or turnips. Thats the other down side to soft steels.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2011
- Messages
- 52
You could go ahead and finish your set. Just realize the limitations of the steel you have. For kitchen use it could be weak enough that, in addition to edge rolling you could get bendin if you try cutting thick vegetables like potatoes or turnips. Thats the other down side to soft steels.
I understand. I just have to question the guy from the manufacture now with you saying that,"bendin". This stuff is .063 thick and will not bend. It is fairly flexible, still stiffer then any other knife in the kitchen drawer, but it will break before it bends enough to call it "bendin".
These blades on the saw, will get bound up in a 300# piece of titanium, and just snap. They do not kink, or bend at all.
If I cut a piece of it say at 4" in length, by hand I can not even make it flex. It is too stiff. Do you guys still think that it is D6AC?
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2011
- Messages
- 52
Take your knife, get a few corrugated cardboard boxes, and start cutting them into strips -- if you get tired before the knife does, it's some good stuff, whatever it is.
LOL. Any knife is going to go dull in a hurry cutting cardboard boxes up. I'm tired already just thinking about the mess I'd be cleaning up afterward.
Try it. You might be surprised. I've cut over 100 feet of cardboard with the same 1" section of edge on a $25 knife and it would still shave hair off the back pf my hand.
Indeed - it's certainly a test that you cannot BS yourself about - it'll quickly sort out poor blade and edge geometries and poor steel - or steel with a poor heat treatment. And no, it doesn't come down to just a lot of carbides -- one of the very best cutters I have for this is a German made folder from the 1950s - carbon steel (probably something similar to O1 or W2) - they got the blade and edge geometries right and really nailed the heat treat - it will flat fly thru corrugated cardboard and just keep on doing it (push cut, not sawing back and forth).