Magnetized blade?

The wire brushes on dremel tools are really soft, use a fine steel polishing paste like flitz/simichrome/mothers wheel polish/whatever and it should come right off.
 
I give up, unless I find a way to get it sandblasted or something it's going in the trash, too much trouble for a $20 knife. :rolleyes:
 
nelsonmc said:
I had the candy/meat therm touching one of the knife handles, so I'm pretty sure it was almost right on, +/- 10 probably.
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You should have put the thermometer on the burner coil. If you got 250F on the knife on the side not touching the burner, the part touching the burner could have been much higher. If you put a peice of metal over a say 3,000 degree flame, the opposite side of the metal isn't going to instanly become 3,000 degrees. Hopefully you only caused some damage to the outter surface of the metal and not all the way through. I'd just give it a fresh sharpening and carry on with your custom colored knife. :)
 
WadeF said:
You should have put the thermometer on the burner coil. If you got 250F on the knife on the side not touching the burner, the part touching the burner could have been much higher. If you put a peice of metal over a say 3,000 degree flame, the opposite side of the metal isn't going to instanly become 3,000 degrees. Hopefully you only caused some damage to the outter surface of the metal and not all the way through. I'd just give it a fresh sharpening and carry on with your custom colored knife. :)
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Got most of the color off with 600 grit sandpaper, but it looks like crap now lol. I'm probably just gonna toss it in the trash or my junker box unless I can get it like sandblasted or finished by someone who knows what they're doing! (Not me) lol
 
I used to magnetize and demagnetize screwdrivers by hitting them with a hammer. If you lay the screwdriver N-S over an anvil and whack it really hard it magnetizes it just enought to barely lift a screw. Lay the screwdriver E-W and whack it and no more magnet! Actually laying it E-W also magnetizes it, but the magnetic field is spread out over the length of the entire screwdriver instead of concentrated at the tips, so you could barely tell it had the slightest bit of magnetization. Of course hitting your knife with a hammer may not be the "best" solution. ;)

Maybe you dropped the knife and it just happened to fall close to N-S. Anyway, glad to hear you got it demagnetized and that you didn't over heat the knife. When I read that the knife changed colors I thought it was gone for sure.
 
nelsonmc said:
Got most of the color off with 600 grit sandpaper, but it looks like crap now lol. I'm probably just gonna toss it in the trash or my junker box unless I can get it like sandblasted or finished by someone who knows what they're doing! (Not me) lol
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Maybe one of the knife makers will read this, get a laugh out of it, and offer to refinish your knife. :) If not, you could toss it, or go to like Sears Hardware and pick up some 800 grit, 1000 grit, and 1500 grit sand papers. The higher grits are usually with the automotive paint supplies for sanding your car before painting. They might even have 2000. Just make sure you remove all the scratches from the previous grit before moving to a finer grit. Also you should back the sand paper with some leather or something to keep the pressure more uniform against the knife. You should be able to obtain a nice satin finish this way.
 
WadeF said:
Maybe one of the knife makers will read this, get a laugh out of it, and offer to refinish your knife. :) If not, you could toss it, or go to like Sears Hardware and pick up some 800 grit, 1000 grit, and 1500 grit sand papers. The higher grits are usually with the automotive paint supplies for sanding your car before painting. They might even have 2000. Just make sure you remove all the scratches from the previous grit before moving to a finer grit. Also you should back the sand paper with some leather or something to keep the pressure more uniform against the knife. You should be able to obtain a nice satin finish this way.
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Yeah I got some 800 and I believe 1500 grit paper from when I had to touch up a rust spot on my truck. I'll give that a try, but it's really hard to sand around the thumbstud, just can't seem to get it. I won't toss the knife in the trash, guess I just got a little ticked off at myself back there. That would be nice if a kind generous knifemaker would take pitty on my lame ass! Maybe the knife gods with shine down on my little abused chive lol :D

Thanks for laughing with me (or at me grr) everyone :)
 
Live and learn :p I once did a similar thing when repainting some plastic parts with brownells alumahyde, put it on a bit thick so I decided to stick it in the oven on warm to get it to dry faster, almost ruined them, spent quite a bit of time and effort getting things to fit right again.
 
Interesting...

what if you took the knife with you to a local retail store and ran it over the "security tag de-activation pad" on the checkout counter...would that have worked...?
 
Checked out of curiousity and the blade on my mini-afck is magnetized just enough to pick up an inch-long strip of staples. No magnetism on the handle though. My first guess at the culprit would be my Chef's choice manual sharpener. It uses magnets to keep the blade in the correct path. Might come in handy next time i drop a tiny screw at work. :)
 
I ruined a lot of my mom's kitchen knives playing around with the burners on our gas range. I know a lot about these things from experiments that went wrong. One that comes to mind is when I was fixing the grips on a Mercury .22LR vest pocket automatic. A plastic grip was cracked so I thought I'd fix it using epoxy. I used a lot of epoxy at work and I knew that epoxy dries faster and harder if you heat it up a bit. I did an excellent job of filling the crack and cleaning off excess epoxy. Then I left it under a desk lamp to cure. I didn't realize how cheap the plastic was in the grip and it melted under the desk lamp. So I went from a grip with a slight crack to no grips at all.
 
driveljay said:
Interesting...

what if you took the knife with you to a local retail store and ran it over the "security tag de-activation pad" on the checkout counter...would that have worked...?
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I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be powerful enough but I guess you never know untill you try. The heat did work, but boil it or put it in the oven if this ever happens. Never ever put it on the stove top like I did or it will make the finish FUBAR :p

Overall after all of this, I got a knife that has an interesting or at least amusing story behind it.
 
nelsonmc said:
Overall after all of this, I got a knife that has an interesting or at least amusing story behind it.
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Well, at least you didn't put it in the microwave! :) Now that would have been a real hoot!

The best way might be to use a toaster oven and set it to 200F and just let the knife sit in there for an hour or two so the knife heats up to 200F all the way through. Right after you could hit it with Militec-1 lube as that stuff works better if it's applied to heated metal. :)

Now I'll have to check my knives for this problem. If they have it, I'm buying a bulk tape eraser. :)
 
WadeF said:
Well, at least you didn't put it in the microwave! :) Now that would have been a real hoot!

The best way might be to use a toaster oven and set it to 200F and just let the knife sit in there for an hour or two so the knife heats up to 200F all the way through. Right after you could hit it with Militec-1 lube as that stuff works better if it's applied to heated metal. :)

Now I'll have to check my knives for this problem. If they have it, I'm buying a bulk tape eraser. :)
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I think I'm going to use some left over gun blue from touching up my Rem 870 a few months ago. How much do ya bet I screw it up worse? I got $10 on it lol :D
 
I bet it doesnt mark the blade surface at all :p If you've relegated the knife to the "not really important anymore" bin you might try something else though. If you have a radioshack nearby they should sell archer etchant for printed circuit boards (pcb's) It's fairly concentrated ferric chloride, and will give even the most corrosion resistant of stainless steels a dark black/grey etch given enough soak time. You'll want to dilute it a bit, but not too much, maybe 4 parts water to 1 part Ferric chloride in a glass or plastic container just large enough for the knife parts. Soak it for 5 minutes or so, take it out and clean the surface off if it's starting to get spotty (bubbles form on the steel after some time and cause uneven etching) use steel wool or something, then wash it off with some tap water before soaking again. You may need to adjust the times, it's been a while since I've etched stainless steel enough to give a beadblasted look and it may take longer soaks to get good results. I've done it to my Benchmade AFCK's clip to good effect.
 
yoda4561 said:
I bet it doesnt mark the blade surface at all :p If you've relegated the knife to the "not really important anymore" bin you might try something else though. If you have a radioshack nearby they should sell archer etchant for printed circuit boards (pcb's) It's fairly concentrated ferric chloride, and will give even the most corrosion resistant of stainless steels a dark black/grey etch given enough soak time. You'll want to dilute it a bit, but not too much, maybe 4 parts water to 1 part Ferric chloride in a glass or plastic container just large enough for the knife parts. Soak it for 5 minutes or so, take it out and clean the surface off if it's starting to get spotty (bubbles form on the steel after some time and cause uneven etching) use steel wool or something, then wash it off with some tap water before soaking again. You may need to adjust the times, it's been a while since I've etched stainless steel enough to give a beadblasted look and it may take longer soaks to get good results. I've done it to my Benchmade AFCK's clip to good effect.
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Thanks, I just checked and my local Radio Shack has this stuff in stock. I'm going to head out there now before it desides to snow again today and tomorrow. This is gonna be cool! Heh Heh!

Do I have to worry about fumes or anything when using this stuff? Any other tips I need?

Thanks again
 
I havent had any real issues with fumes, although it does produce some as long as you have decent ventilation they're nothing major, just use common sense with the stuff, wear gloves, don't get it on clothes (it stains really bad) etc.

It is often used as an etch to create logos and patterns on blades, so with enough skill you could use it to remove them, though for that I would recommend using abrasives, since it's probably easier and should let you blend back into the original finish with minor hassle.
 
FC is not very fummy. You can take ordinary black electrical tape and apply it to the blade nicely, then use an xacto or similar fine knife to cut away some of the tape to form a pattern. When you etch with the FC, it will etch the exposed steel to a dark color, but the areas under the tape will stay silver. Thus you can maybe etch your name or something onto the blade.
 
i have to say this is the best thread ever. i'm going to try some etching this weekend on something crappy (hmm my cheetah most likely) ;)
 
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