Making A Press. NEED HELP!!!!

I just wanted to add a few comments to this thread.

Make sure you have a relief valve plumbed in the system. The directional control valve can be purchased with one built in, but a relief valve is a must have.

Do not go cheap on hoses and make sure they will handle the pressures that you intend to use and then some. Remember that the working pressure for a given hose construction goes down as the diameter of the hose increases. For example, a 100R2 hose at 1/4: has a WP of 5000 psi, but drops to 2000 at 1 inch in dia. for Weatherhead hose. Also remember that hydraulic hoses have bend radius specifications. If a hose is routed with too tight of a turn, is is likely to fail at the bend.

2 stage pumps are commonly used on hydraulic forging presses. the 2 stage pump starts at high flow and low pressure and switches to low flow and high pressure when the load increases. the flow is typically 4 to 1, so when a 16 gpm pump switches, the flow goes to 4 gpm. The reason for the 2 stage pump is that you can get by with lower HP.

There are plenty of on line hydraulic calculators to help you. Surplus center has some as does Baum hydraulic.

Good luck and be safe
Brian
 
Thanks for the input Brian.. The more I know before I start the better I hope the build will be....
 
Found a 6" bore x 10" stroke rebuilt for $200.00 Can get a new 5" bore x 8" stroke for $286.00.

Hmmmm What to do....
 
what kind of ends are on those cylinders... that matters aswell.. say if you have the kind that needs a 1.5 inch pin for the rod end sleeve, that will be much harder to rig up a press frame for
- clevis end maybe easier to install.. !
- there are even cylinders with a flat base or flanged base made just for presses

G
 
Dezmond said:
Found a 6" bore x 10" stroke rebuilt for $200.00 Can get a new 5" bore x 8" stroke for $286.00.

Hmmmm What to do....
Click to expand...

Greg Obach said:
what kind of ends are on those cylinders... that matters aswell.. say if you have the kind that needs a 1.5 inch pin for the rod end sleeve, that will be much harder to rig up a press frame for
- clevis end maybe easier to install.. !
- there are even cylinders with a flat base or flanged base made just for presses

G
Click to expand...

Assuming the same specs, pressure, double acting cyinder, shaft size and such
I would go bigger.
The difference between 5 and 6 inch means a big increase in tonnage performance.
 
I'd go 5" as for the FAST moving 6" cylinder you will need a lot of GPMs. And a lot of HP to turn this pump. And a big tank with a lot of oil. And bigger oil filter\strainer\control valve. And bigger hoses. If you have spare 15-25HP engine and can afford 25-40GPM pump(+ all other stuff) - 6" cylinder is your choice. With 4-16GPM pump 6" cylinder will be slo-o-o-ow. Powerfull but slo-o-o-ow.
I have that one:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1197-08&catname=hydraulic
 
And don't forget that with 6" cylinder you will need to build the frame capable to hold ~100tonns. Assuming that the (6") press would be about 50 tonns and you need "some" mechanical redundancy.
 
So I got some photos of the 6" cylinder that I can buy for $200.00

P1010804A.JPG

P1010805A.JPG

P1010807A.JPG


Still waiting to get the quote on the 5" x8 with 2" rod......

Dezi
 
SO I am almost planning a press build, and I'm a bit confused about the H beams. My local suppliers have 8x48 H beams for 33.60/ft , cut to length and loaded on my truck. However HP8x36 (which is what Eric used) is "Piling beam" and is twice the money at $65/ft. It's lighter and dimensionally smaller than the heavier cheaper beams.. I'm wondering if I need this or can I get by with the cheaper heavier beams. The suppliers are not very helpful in explaining the differences.
 
The 48 designates 48 pounds per foot as I understand it.. 8" flange and 48 pounds per foot of length.
 
mgysgthath said:
SO I am almost planning a press build, and I'm a bit confused about the H beams. My local suppliers have 8x48 H beams for 33.60/ft , cut to length and loaded on my truck. However HP8x36 (which is what Eric used) is "Piling beam" and is twice the money at $65/ft. It's lighter and dimensionally smaller than the heavier cheaper beams.. I'm wondering if I need this or can I get by with the cheaper heavier beams. The suppliers are not very helpful in explaining the differences.
Click to expand...

I don't know about the Piling beam designation, but Nick wheeler mentioned this and then I looked it up.

There is W beam and S beam

280px-Ibeam.svg.png



The W beam Wide Flange has nicer straight flats that are important for your press rail sliders
if you use Eric's drawings.

If you changed the design of those sliders, it may not matter as much.
 
Thanks Count, I think I'll just have to see whats available and in the right thicknesses.. or I May just spring for the piling beam because I know it works for this build. I'm going to basically recreate Eric's build but manual and 2 stage. I have to find a proper cylinder first, and use that measurement to make sure the frame is tall enough.
 
A W beam will work just fine. I just happend to use H beams. Whatever you use, count has a good point above. make sure the flange is the same thickness and not tapered... If you are concerned about strentgh, just look up the specs of the type of beam you have access to and do the math. A beam with ~.5" web and flange walls should be very good for an H frame press.
 
Thanks guys. I think the H8x40 should do me fine, or H8x48, the webs are a little over half an inch thick. I appreciate the help :) Now I Just need to get a cylinder, and work out the final dimensions.
 
w8 x 35 is also a structual beam They use them in new homes and stuff...

I got mine picked up for under $300.00... Pretty good... They even had it all cut to sze for me :) Square is good...

Dezi
 
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