Making handles for my BK 2

Good point.

Just re-read my earlier post. Almost sounded disparaging to the stock handles. Hope it didn't come across that way.

Actually like the stock ones. They're comfortable. I'm 6' 2" (bigger hands) so the bigger grip fits well. Look good against the stipped blade too. (I think)
 
moosez45 said:
Very, very good lookin' work, brother, that is turning out spectacular. Can't wait to see that baby finished. You gonna linseed the wood or seal it up with something else?

Moose
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Linseed oil is supposed to work well...I'm not too sure any of the colored polyurethane spray or wipe-on stains/protectants would work well might make it too slick.

I'm interested to see how you seal the wood while still making the handles grippy enough to where it doesn't slip when wet. Let us know how it works out....maybe try out some scrap pieces first.
 
Linseed oil, Tung oil or a combination of the two is great for a tool you are going to use, it won't keep the wood looking beautiful though, long term. It will however keep the wood from taking on moisture and cracking. You'll have to re-oil it every now and then.

That polyurethane, urethane, shellac or laquer will make the wood beautiful for show pieces. The clearcoats will definitely make it slippery with blood sweat, rain on it.
And the poly coats do seem to create hot spots and blisters easier, don't really understand the nuts and bolts of why that is, just my observation.
 
Hey man, I've been thinking about the problem your having with lining up the holes. This may or may not help, hope I'm able to articulate this. I also have been having trouble lining them up.
So first I patched up the screwed up holes, used wood glue and a tapered plug cutter, cut out a couple plugs and glued them in. Then I used a flush cut saw (japanese saw) to cut the plug heads off flush with the grip essentially starting over again. i did all this at work so no pics.

The mistake I was making before was trying to use two different drill bits, one for the bolt head (3/8) and one for the through bolt 3/16. keeping the two of them centered was pretty much impossible.
I remembered the countersinks with drill bit, dewalt had the perfect one that had both the right sizes.
I layed the grivory grip down on the wood and lined it up in the drill press. The holes ended up being aligned very well.
Chased out the holes with a forstner bit (3/8) and I'm fairly pleased .
Here's a pic of those taper plugs in Osage, which by the way I didn't use. Yet.


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This wood is pretty forgiving overall, I must have thought I killed it 10 times but I keep finding ways to repair it.
 
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Looks real good. Your others are coming out sweet too. Been following in the other posts.

I finaly got back to mine. (house is keeping my spare time pretty busy - get done working on it and not much left for knives) :grumpy:

But, got them drilled. Had to rough up the handles to keep them from sliding around in the clamps. That was the workout.

Playing around with liners - Literaly used a plastic coffee jug for material (LOL) Jury is still out on them though. They may go with the stock handles better.

Need some new hardware and may go with gunstock oil for a sealer. Combo of lineseed and other stuff - unless you want to give up your "secret sauce" (chuckle) Heading to the gun shop this weekend - that will be dangerous to the wallet.

Gettin' there.
 
Cobra281 said:
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Thanks man. Appreciate it.

Hit a little snag. Was practicing on some scraps (HIGHLY recommend practicing - saves mistakes on the real thing) Need a smaller wood bit for the drill, (than I have) to recess for the hardware. Metal drill bits doesn't recess well ... :grumpy:

Need some new hardware too. Soooooo .... put the stock handles back on
for now.

Plus, we just bought a house (bank owned kinda' thing) needs some work,
so it's really taking up the spare time (AND MONEY) My "honeydew" list (as in ... "honey will you do this, honey will you do that") is as long as my arm (LOL) Getting tired of living in plaster dust. But it's REALLY coming out good - so worth it.

As far as sealing them, was going to Polly them (bring out the grain) but
might be slippery - the linseed oil idea is interesting. Have to try some diff. things on the scraps.

Thanks again.
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what is that pouch that you have on your sheath?
 
It's a little knife sheath. Put holes in the corners and cauterized the nylon with a heated up ice pick. Then tied it on with some 550. Someday I'll breakdown and get a nice Maxpidition or something. But it works for now.

And prob. cost about $1.50 (with the cord) LOL
 
Coke a Cola reveals the secret formula folks ! (LOL) Thanks.

Is that what's on those Burl Wood handles you posted a while back too ?

Nice finish if it is.

I hand to look up Tung oil. :confused: Looks like it would leave a good hard finish.

Thanks again.
 
Finally Done !

Couple pics. Left the blade brushed finished for now.

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Cobra281 said:
Finally Done !

Couple pics. Left the blade brushed finished for now.

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They came out really good man! Great job! What did you use on them as far as sealant?
 
I'm all about stripping your blade...I have yet to conquer making my own handles. I don't know if I have the tools or patience to work on them. Looks great though! I love how you can personalize and customize the BK2. Yet another reason to have several :D :D
 
Thanks. My first attempt at handles. If you try, my advise is GO SLOW.
Have some practice material too.

A belt sander helps a lot too.
 
And some other advice, don't cut up your really nice piece of wood for your first go around. Do a mock up of something decent until you get it right. I can't tell you how many times I screwed up a beautiful piece of Wenge.

That turned out awesome, by the way.
 
How did you get the nuts recessed into the wood. Talk to us for a bit on what hardware was used and your process for getting it into the wood. please and thank you.
 
Cobra281 said:
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Thanks man. Appreciate it.

Hit a little snag. Was practicing on some scraps (HIGHLY recommend practicing - saves mistakes on the real thing) Need a smaller wood bit for the drill, (than I have) to recess for the hardware. Metal drill bits doesn't recess well ... :grumpy:

Need some new hardware too. Soooooo .... put the stock handles back on
for now.

Plus, we just bought a house (bank owned kinda' thing) needs some work,
so it's really taking up the spare time (AND MONEY) My "honeydew" list (as in ... "honey will you do this, honey will you do that") is as long as my arm (LOL) Getting tired of living in plaster dust. But it's REALLY coming out good - so worth it.

As far as sealing them, was going to Polly them (bring out the grain) but
might be slippery - the linseed oil idea is interesting. Have to try some diff. things on the scraps.

Thanks again.
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That really looks good with the stripped blade. I gotta say after seeing this knife take a beating over in the ESEE forum I might have to pick one up. Looks like a little tank. :thumbup:
 
OREGON FAL'ER said:
How did you get the nuts recessed into the wood. Talk to us for a bit on what hardware was used and your process for getting it into the wood. please and thank you.
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Recessing the wood was P.I.A. Teak is so tough. Drilled the small hole for the bolt, then a bit with a stop on it for the recessed area. Then Dremeled it flat. For the nut side was nothing fancy. Just drilled a little smaller than the nut, then used the dremel to make the corners, then pressed the nut into the wood and drew it in with the screw to make the hex. Ain't perfect, but it works. Couldn't cut the teak with any type of razor.

Used stainless. #10-32 bolts. Half inch.

Fire stick is same process. It's actually functional too. That the first bolt holds goes through a lanyard hole in the fire steel and hold it in the wood. When it wears out just unbolt and pop in a new steel.

Assembly

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Firestick still in rough form. Pilot hole went a little too deep (lol)
but can see how it bolts up.

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Alright man that helps. Truth be told I hadn't thought of doing what you on the nut side. Making the points with a dremel was good info.
The drill stop is somethin I'm gonna copy also.
 
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