Making my first knife!!! Any info and ideas greatly appreciated

G

gilligan61710

Joined
Jan 9, 2017
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19
Stage 1
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Welcome! This should be in the shop talk forum, you'll get all the help you need there. Fill out your profile, introduce yourself, and talk a bit more about what you're planning to make.
 
STRESS RELIEVING
When desirable to relieve the strains of machining, heat slowly to 1050°-1250°F, allow to equalize, and then cool in still air (Strain Relieving).

PREHEAT PRIOR TO HARDENING
Warm slightly before charging into the preheat furnace, which should be operating at about 1100°-1200°F.

HARDENING
After thorough preheating, transfer to the hardening furnace, operating from 1450°-1500°F, depending on the size of the part.

QUENCHING
Quench in warm oil and allow to cool in the oil until a temperature of 125°-150°F has been reached, or to where the part can be held in the bare hand, and temper immediately.

TEMPERING
O1 is generally tempered in the range of 300°-600°F. Tempering temperatures and resulting Rockwell C hardness, based on a 1 inch round samples oil quenched from 1475°F and tempered for 2 hours, are as follows:
Tempering Temperature F Rockwell C
300° 65hrc
350° 63hrc
400° 62.5hrc
450° 61hrc
500° 60hrc
600° 57hrc
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I was curious about this so I looked it up and this seems to be the consensus. That being said, I have heard from a few sources that O1 can benefit from a "soak" at its 1400°-1500° temps.
How long of a soak, or even if one Should be used seems to be questioned by the few resources in have checked.

That being said, I would use thus as a guide and not scripture. Make a small necker with no scales and see how it works out. Beat on it, try to break it, see what it can take and if you want more edge holding or toughness...
 
NJBillK said:
STRESS RELIEVING
When desirable to relieve the strains of machining, heat slowly to 1050°-1250°F, allow to equalize, and then cool in still air (Strain Relieving).

PREHEAT PRIOR TO HARDENING
Warm slightly before charging into the preheat furnace, which should be operating at about 1100°-1200°F.

HARDENING
After thorough preheating, transfer to the hardening furnace, operating from 1450°-1500°F, depending on the size of the part.

QUENCHING
Quench in warm oil and allow to cool in the oil until a temperature of 125°-150°F has been reached, or to where the part can be held in the bare hand, and temper immediately.

TEMPERING
O1 is generally tempered in the range of 300°-600°F. Tempering temperatures and resulting Rockwell C hardness, based on a 1 inch round samples oil quenched from 1475°F and tempered for 2 hours, are as follows:
Tempering Temperature FRockwell C
300° 65hrc
350°63hrc
400°62.5hrc
450°61hrc
500°60hrc
600°57hrc
-------
I was curious about this so I looked it up and this seems to be the consensus. That being said, I have heard from a few sources that O1 can benefit from a "soak" at its 1400°-1500° temps.
How long of a soak, or even if one Should be used seems to be questioned by the few resources in have checked.

That being said, I would use thus as a guide and not scripture. Make a small necker with no scales and see how it works out. Beat on it, try to break it, see what it can take and if you want more edge holding or toughness...
Click to expand...
I actually have a analysis for 01tool steel and the paper confirms everything you said... thanks

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If I had it to do over again I would have started a little simpler (like without scales) and learned the heat treat process better up front instead of as I went along. Are you using a furnace or forge for heat treating? If using a forge, I will give you the same suggestion I was given, start with something like 1084 as it is easier to get more out of with a basic heat treat. If you have a furnace, more power to you, and jump in with both feet!

Most of all have fun!
 
TripleSKnives said:
If I had it to do over again I would have started a little simpler (like without scales) and learned the heat treat process better up front instead of as I went along. Are you using a furnace or forge for heat treating? If using a forge, I will give you the same suggestion I was given, start with something like 1084 as it is easier to get more out of with a basic heat treat. If you have a furnace, more power to you, and jump in with both feet!

Most of all have fun!
Click to expand...
I'm hoping to find someone close that can help me out with the heat treat and tempering.

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gilligan61710 said:
I'm hoping to find someone close that can help me out with the heat treat and tempering.

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Click to expand...

For tempering all you need is a kitchen oven (seriously) or a good toaster oven with temperature thermometer (what I currently use) but the tricky part is the stress relief and final hardening temps.
 
That is why I haven't really started filing or grinding yet... kinda want all my ducks in a row(well ok most of my ducks heading the same direction)!!!!

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gilligan61710 said:
I see building a gas forge after I get Christmas paid off!!!

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Click to expand...

I built a gas forge and actually pleasantly surprised with its performance. Biggest key to it though is getting a good regulator. I had one of the 30 PSI cajun cooker style for boiling crawfish and it would not handle the pressure the burner needed to operate. Swapped for a bigger regulator (and different style) and runs like a champ. Process was very easy just time consuming.
 
TripleSKnives said:
I built a gas forge and actually pleasantly surprised with its performance. Biggest key to it though is getting a good regulator. I had one of the 30 PSI cajun cooker style for boiling crawfish and it would not handle the pressure the burner needed to operate. Swapped for a bigger regulator (and different style) and runs like a champ. Process was very easy just time consuming.
Click to expand...
Ya think you could send me a few pics and any hints of your forge?

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gilligan61710 said:
That is why I haven't really started filing or grinding yet... kinda want all my ducks in a row(well ok most of my ducks heading the same direction)!!!!

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Click to expand...

That's a good thing. I find any time I rush with this, I make dumb mistakes or am not happy with the results. I notice that first time makers who plan and evaluate often make first knives that are significantly above average.
 
ERRN said:
That's a good thing. I find any time I rush with this, I make dumb mistakes or am not happy with the results. I notice that first time makers who plan and evaluate often make first knives that are significantly above average.
Click to expand...
I hope I make a good blade. I plan on it being on my hip everyday

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Read the Stickies, all the info you'll need is there. Keep your first design simple.

O1 CAN be treated in a forge, but it really benefits from a soak at a precise temps. A kiln would be better.

Keep us updated.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
Read the Stickies, all the info you'll need is there. Keep your first design simple.

O1 CAN be treated in a forge, but it really benefits from a soak at a precise temps. A kiln would be better.

Keep us updated.
Click to expand...
Good to know... Thanks for the info. I'll take pics and post them as I go!

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Just completed my third knife and have learned from several mistake!
1. Practice your grind on a piece of scrap steel, especially if your using a belt sander
2. Finish the leading edge of your handle material BEFORE you attach it to the knife
3. When you harden it? Keep your eye on it (don't walk off to do something else's)

These are a few things I've picked up in my first three, sure there will be more lol. Have fun and don't expect to much from yourself right out of the box, live and learn.

Good luck
 
Just completed my third knife and have learned from several mistake!
1. Practice your grind on a piece of scrap steel, especially if your using a belt sander
2. Finish the leading edge of your handle material BEFORE you attach it to the knife
3. When you harden it? Keep your eye on it (don't walk off to do something else)

These are a few things I've picked up in my first three, sure there will be more lol. Have fun and don't expect to much from yourself right out of the box, live and learn.

Good luck
 
No 1.. Who are you.
No 2.. Where are you.
Two important issues, we need to know if you're a teenager or a 60 year old retiree with a shop full of tools.
Second if we don't know where you are we cannot refer you to products and services relevant to you and maybe even an offer of help from a local.
Read how to amke a knife in the stickies at the top of the page and then ask questions, we will be glad to help.
 
SBuzek said:
No 1.. Who are you.
No 2.. Where are you.
Two important issues, we need to know if you're a teenager or a 60 year old retiree with a shop full of tools.
Second if we don't know where you are we cannot refer you to products and services relevant to you and maybe even an offer of help from a local.
Read how to amke a knife in the stickies at the top of the page and then ask questions, we will be glad to help.
Click to expand...
Guess ya have a good point.
1) the name is Gilligan. I'm closer to 60 than I am a teenager. I am a fabricator/ welder for close to 30 years. And I'll prolly be able to retire about a month after I die.
2) I live near bellefontaine, Ohio.
I found a 22" piece of 01 at work and thought it would be cool to make my own blade. I'm not one of those people that doesn't do their homework when it comes to hobbies. That is why I am on here, to gather all the info I can before I really begin this adventure.

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