Matt Roberts Bowie

Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
26,811
Matt sent me some pics of my latest and I thought I'd post these two,
It is the prototype for his Sapling Cutter.
8 1/4" blade,13 1/8" overall,Claro Walnut,differentially heat treated and tempered.

102-0242_IMG.jpg


102-0246_IMG.jpg

Doug
 
Matt does some really super-clean work, as is evident from the pics of this bowie. Nice grab Doug!

Roger
 
hooowee!!!! nice....those saplings had better run for cover:D
 
Matt PMed me:
I noticed you purchased one of my knives,I wanted to give you a little background on it.

This particular piece was a prototype of my current Sapling Cutter.I used the knife extensively and was very happy with the performance.

The blade is 5160,differentially hardened,then differentially tempered.The guard is 416 ss.The handle is claro walnut.

This piece is finished in my "working grade" finish,so feel free to abuse it.:)
As always I'm happy to refinish and resharpen the knife for the cost of shipping.

Let me know if you have any questions,I'm happy to help.
 
Congratulations Doug.

You have yourself a nice piece there.

Equally suited for display in a fine collection or for hard use in the field.
 
Fantastic looking piece.Matt's work has come so far so fast.There isn't a thing not to like about that one,congrats.
 
I just love the grain in that walnut as shown on the last pic. Heck, I just love walnut.

Roger
 
Doug,

I always love in-progress threads as it is amazing to me to see the rough draft turn into a magnifico blade. :thumbup: Doug you rock!

I have a question (I do not want to make an issue out of, but I am curious)that Matt probably can answer: it appears there is no pins internal or otherwise to secure the handle to the tang. Is epoxy and a rough tang sufficient? Only hard testing would reveal that, and so I want to hear this from Matt.

Thanks!

Coop
 
Coop,I am sure Matt will chime in but I do remember talking with him and I know he has used a hidden pin at times.That may be the case with this one.:foot:
 
Coop,I am sure Matt will chime in but I do remember talking with him and I know he has used a hidden pin at times.That may be the case with this one.:foot:

From Matt: The piece has one hidden pin and one rivet.

Doug
 
Excellent. Our forums are here, in part, not only to display, but to educate and promote. Sounds like a great opportunity to have learned more about how a GOOD maker would handle this aspect. The photos alone do not fill the story, as I didn't see a hole drilled in the tang ....and so I asked.

Thanks.

Coop
 
Please excuse my delayed response. I've been out of town on vacation. Thanks again for the heads up Doug, I wouldn't have known about the question without your note. I'm not on the forums often any more so your email is appreciated.

If I choose not to use a through pin I have another procedure that produces equally sound results. I use a hidden pin, a rivet, and a file worked tang. All of my tangs run to within 3/8-1/8" of the butt. All parts are cleaned thoroughly using detergent and acetone. I use a slow cure epoxy and place the entire piece in a curing box. I allow ample time for epoxy and JB Weld to cure before I resume work. This process creates a handle attachment that is every bit as strong as through pin construction.

"Only hard testing would reveal that, and so I want to hear this from Matt."
SharpByCoop

All of my pieces are tested thorougly. All go through at least an edge flex, 2x4 and cured osage orange chop, free hanging paper and rope cuts. This piece was used heavily clearing small hardwood trees, cutting vines and grasses, in addition to the above testing criteria.

"Is epoxy and a rough tang sufficient?"
SharpByCoop

I have done many destructive tests using different compounds and epoxies. I have found that epoxy alone is sufficient. However, I prefer not to rely on epoxy alone.
 
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