Please excuse my delayed response. I've been out of town on vacation. Thanks again for the heads up Doug, I wouldn't have known about the question without your note. I'm not on the forums often any more so your email is appreciated.
If I choose not to use a through pin I have another procedure that produces equally sound results. I use a hidden pin, a rivet, and a file worked tang. All of my tangs run to within 3/8-1/8" of the butt. All parts are cleaned thoroughly using detergent and acetone. I use a slow cure epoxy and place the entire piece in a curing box. I allow ample time for epoxy and JB Weld to cure before I resume work. This process creates a handle attachment that is every bit as strong as through pin construction.
"Only hard testing would reveal that, and so I want to hear this from Matt."
SharpByCoop
All of my pieces are tested thorougly. All go through at least an edge flex, 2x4 and cured osage orange chop, free hanging paper and rope cuts. This piece was used heavily clearing small hardwood trees, cutting vines and grasses, in addition to the above testing criteria.
"Is epoxy and a rough tang sufficient?"
SharpByCoop
I have done many destructive tests using different compounds and epoxies. I have found that epoxy alone is sufficient. However, I prefer not to rely on epoxy alone.