Meet The G3 Puukko

My thoughts. Looks like a well executed design.

I was expecting a Scandi, or rhomboid grind.

As puukko is a Finnish design, you should never expect a so-called "Scandi" grind. Secondary bevels, whether on a saber or rhomboid main grind, are most common. The back should be straight or only slightly trailing. The handle should be round to ooval with no guard.

I see what are basically spear-point blades being routinely sold as "puukko." Sort of like "tactical" or "scandi" -- or "authentic," "genuine," or "wow."
 
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That's a handsome, sleek-looking modern design frame-lock folder. But —

Well, puukko is Finnish for knife, so I guess it qualifies.

However, most knife fans will immediately associate the term with a traditional puukko: a fixed-blade knife, drop-point blade 2" to 5" in length, scandi-grind, with a barrel shaped handle of stacked leather or birchbark or curly-birch or -maple wood, and perhaps Finnish folk-art decoration on the blade, handle, or sheath.

I guess I don't get it.
 
As puukko is a Finnish design, you should never expect a so-called "Scandi" grind....

Hang on, Thomas — isn't Finland part of Scandinavia? And in any case, the vast majority of Finnish puukkot made by Finnish bladesmiths have scandi-grinds. I hope we don't have to start calling those made across the Gulf of Bothnia "Finno-Ugric grinds".
 
Here it is next to a Code 4 to help see a size comparison.
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If you go on the real steel website they offer the knife with a scandi grind and also the dual grind
 
The pocket clip is easy to use but yet very snug for pants pockets. Cold Steel could use some improvement in that department.
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The knife is long and sits deep in the pocket but still I guess enough is exposed to tell it could be a knife if you are worried about that kind of thing.
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The way the knife feels in the hand with the length of the handles and the protection it offers so your hand cant slip on the blade makes you feel confident you can put some heavy pressure on it wet or dry.
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That extra thickness in the blade is not as pronounced as it looks in the picture. Using the knife at work I was not doing any kind of work that might effect it with the size thickness in the blade. So did some slicing and dicing in the kitchen with potatoes and simply could not find any problem with that difference in blade thickness.
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Being my first knife on ball bearings this knife is so easy to flip open and flip closed without even touching the blade. And becomes quite addictive practicing it on the couch. But I would not have minded if they would have put in a knick in the blade so I could open it the conventional way when I do not want to flick it open in front of people. So it leaves you with just one way to open it. And so one of the big appeals to me that the blade hides away flush is without a knick I can't even grab the blade to open it either.
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Personally I am no fan of titanium on many tools, knives or watches except for Citizen watches with the duratect protective coating. And I really do not like those plastic scales they put on so many of todays knives. But I do like good old fashioned stainless steel, so this and the design was exactly what I like. I am trying to come up with some negatives I do not like about this knife besides what I stated above. I sure wish it was made in America and Americans made something like this design. Not sure what lengivity of ball bearings and there reliability is compared to simple flat washers are?

So if anyone has any questions more than happy to answer them.
 
didn't see anyone else mentioning this the bearings are needle or roller bearings which is why the action is amazing
 
Thanks, TL! Putting it next to the Code 4 really helped convey the dimensions of the Puukko.

I'm glad the oddfish bevel works.

FWIW, I've found a way to open my Kizer Gemini more like a traditional, and it may work with your G3.

I hold the knife as if I'm going to flip it open, initiating the deployment with my index finger. But I don't give it full force. Instead, I hold the spine of the blade with my non-dominant hand, and pinch the blade between thumb and index finger of my off-hand as it clears the scales.
 
]I guess the first 2/3 of the blade look kinda puukko-ish in profile, if you discount the absence of the scandi grind.[/B]
Maybe it's contemporary-Finnish-fusion knife design.
Or something.
Whatever it is, I look the looks of it.
Alas, another knife & knife company to investigate, now...
[emphasis added]

Puukot generally do not have the so-called "Scandi Grind," defined by BritishBlades.com - low saber grind with no secondary bevel. Puukot are almost always a plain high saber with secondary bevel or rhomboids with secondary bevel.

This is a lovely-looking knife that with a complex grind that has zero puukko to it and ought to be evaluated on its own merits. What can it do? Or is it jewelry?

That's a handsome, sleek-looking modern design frame-lock folder. But —

Well, puukko is Finnish for knife, so I guess it qualifies.

However, most knife fans will immediately associate the term with a traditional puukko: a fixed-blade knife, drop-point blade 2" to 5" in length, scandi-grind, with a barrel shaped handle of stacked leather or birchbark or curly-birch or -maple wood, and perhaps Finnish folk-art decoration on the blade, handle, or sheath.

I guess I don't get it.

SUbject to some discussion, "puukko" is Finnish for puukko. "Veitsi" is Finnish for knife.

Puukot traditionally are not drop-point. Some few are slightly trailing-point.

Hang on, Thomas — isn't Finland part of Scandinavia? And in any case, the vast majority of Finnish puukkot made by Finnish bladesmiths have scandi-grinds. I hope we don't have to start calling those made across the Gulf of Bothnia "Finno-Ugric grinds".

No. Finland is not a Scandinavian country. They do not regard themselves as such and do not speak a Scandinavian language, "borrow words" aside.
 
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Thanks, TL! Putting it next to the Code 4 really helped convey the dimensions of the Puukko.

I'm glad the oddfish bevel works.

FWIW, I've found a way to open my Kizer Gemini more like a traditional, and it may work with your G3.

I hold the knife as if I'm going to flip it open, initiating the deployment with my index finger. But I don't give it full force. Instead, I hold the spine of the blade with my non-dominant hand, and pinch the blade between thumb and index finger of my off-hand as it clears the scales.

Genius! That made me not missing the knicks in the knife blade.
 
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