Messed up hamon on w2 question.

Good to know. I thermal cycled at 1600, 1550, 1500 and 1400 and I don't soak when cycling. I also quenched at .10" and ground down to .01" so I took plenty off.

I think I might just grind a little off and austenize one more time and see what happens. I have about a gallon of parks #50, do you think I should take it to .03" to reheat treat?

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I wouldn't leave the edge at 10. 20 should be enough.

If I were you I would normalize once at 1600, then harden again.
 
I leave my edge at about 0.040", and grind down after heat treat. That might be a bit excessive, but it doesn't take long with a 36g blaze and a 2hp grinder.
 
kuraki said:
I have not really had this happen with W2 like I have with 1095. With 1095, a little bit longer soak at a little bit higher temp gives the more desirable form for me from my supply of steel.

I don't soak W2 that long, based on Don Hanson's recipe, fwiw. Maybe 5 minutes. Also I spent quite a bit of time and energy figuring out exactly where it was 1460 degrees in my furnace. The floor is cold and the front near the door is cold. Now I block knives up so they're practically next to the TC.

All of that said I'd really like to see it after a ferric etch.

I usually etch after cleaning up the initial decarb @ around 220 grit to make sure I'm getting what I want before finish grinding complete. I know that's not a big help now.
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What to you use to block your knives up with? Brick?
 
Yes, a couple small fire bricks and another chunk of brick I filed slots into to hold them in edge.
 
If it is alloy banding - like it looks like to me - i imagine that you could get very interesting patterns by forging that batch of W2 you are working with.
I agree that the pattern straight from the mill it's not the most interesting one, but with a bit of manipulation...
 
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