metal cutting bandsaw recommendations

Tippet

Tippet

Joined
Mar 13, 2010
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226
Basically I need to find the cheapest solution that is truly viable. (A POS that'll fall apart young is not viable)

I see harbor freight's $200 unit takes "rectangular stock up 4"x6"... This seems to be a standard spec for most metal-cutting bandsaws at that end.

WHAT?!!!?

DOES THAT REALLY MEAN IT WON'T WORK WITH LONGER PIECES?

Brothers I need help. I get to feeling like I'm starting to get my bearings then I realize I DON'T KNOW JACK SQUAT
 
A lot of people use the 4x6 model from either HF, Enco, or Grizzly. In many of the WIP and shop threads these saws are pictured. I have an Enco that is heading towards 10 years old. The work you get out of them is as good as the blade quality you put on it. A good bi-metal blade does wonders for the performance.

The second option is a portable bandsaw usually the better brands are best (Milwaukee, etc...). You can find stands or build one yourself for these portable units. I notice you are in CA, if you have a Patton's Metal Supply nearby they often have decent sales on both these types of saws.

By the way if your not joking 4x6 is in profile not length.
 
I've had my HF saw for about 5 years and it still works fine.
Now it will probably die tomorrow:D
Stan
 
The 4 X 6 will only cut things up to 4" wide. It will cut any length, however.
HF has them on sale right now. Use a good quality bimetal blade. I use 24 TPI blades on mine, and it has worked well for about 10 years. I did have to replace the on/off switch.
 
Thanks Guys!

:embarrassed: no I wasn't joking, about the 4x6 limits, or the fact that I don't know jack

I didn't even know you shouldn't just put a metal blade in a woodcutting bandsaw until a couple days ago. When you guys were in shop, I was in music lab!

But I'm learning a little
 
SPEAKING OF METAL CUTTING BANDSAWS... I am compiling pics for the WIP of my 14" bandsaw conversion to 3 phase with gear reduction. I purchased a cheapo 14" vertical bandsaw end of last year with teh intentions of eventually doing teh conversion. Last week I scored the motor and reduction for a SUPER DEAL, and now I am doing surgery.
 
HF mounted upright on their stand with reinforced table. Had about 2 years no complaints. The 4" width limit takes some planning on some multiblade cuts but works well.

bandsaw006.jpg
 
ive killed 2 HF 4x6 saws but iuse the hell out of then and for the $$$ have to saw they are hard to beat
the 2 saws totaled lasting a bit more then 5 years
imm looking ot upgrade to a more pro saw
 
I have been looking for a band saw as well. Being up here in Canada and no HF in sight of me about all I can find is one from Princes Auto. I know I can get it cheaper then the listed sale price, but how bad is it?
Variable speed: 0 to 240 FPM max.
Wheel blade guide for precise cuts
Cutting capacity: 4-1/8"
110V, 6.5A motor
Blade size: 44-3/4" x 1/2" x 0.025"
Replacement carbon steel blade 8008039, matrix bi-metal blade 8004754
Click to expand...
Power Fist products are bad, but its about all I can afford right now till I sell some bike parts
 
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Just to explain the numbers on a horizontal/vertical band saw for those who don't know:
The two numbers are actually the clearances measurements. If you look at the photo of Patrick's saw ( to help you visualize) and draw an imaginary line straight back from the blade ( the cut line) it will pass the frame by 4 inches. If you now draw a line perpendicular to the blade's cut line at the front of the blade, you will measure back to the frame and find it is 6 inches. Thus the clearances are 4X6 inches....the saw is referred to as a 4X6. This means that the widest strip you can cut off is 4", and the widest bar you can cut into lengths is 6". You can feed any size sheet ,or cut any length bar, but the 4" strip and 6" depth of cut limits will control the size of the pieces you cut off.

For cutting out profile shapes, you often have these 4X6 limitations show up by the sheet shock running into the frame, and preventing a cut from going any farther. If you mark the profile on your sheet from a template ( a highly recommended practice), you can mark both sides of the sheet. When you bump into the frame, flip the sheet over and cut from the other side. this usually allows the clearance needed. It takes some planning when cutting multiple blades out of a wider sheet, but most obstacles can be gotten around.

For knife making purposes, the horizontal use of the saw is mostly for cutting slices to stack up into damascus billets, or for cutting large round stock into forgable pieces.The vertical use is when we use the saw 99% of the time. Most makers permanently mount the arm of the saw and discard the base and clamps. By doing this you can make a sturdier table than the piece of tin they shipped with the saw, and mount the assembly on the workbench where the table is at a better height for cutting out blades. If you find you need to make a lot of horizontal cuts in your shop, perhaps two saws is the best way to go.

Whatever type of saw you use, be it a high tension hand saw ( hack saw) or a hydraulic dampered 7X12 with oil cooling and 15 speeds....the blade is what cuts, not the saw assembly. Get a really good Bi-metal blade. The Lenox blades sold by the knife supply companies fit the HF saws and most other 4X6 units. They will last longer and cut better. The approx $30 cost is much more than the cheap HF blades and Sears blades, but a good Bi-metal blade will out last them by many times. If you are working in stainless, the Bi-metal blades are a must.

If you are going to cut a lot, a saw with an oil coolant pump is a good step up. The water based cutting oils are recommended for these units
 
That little HF bandsaw is great, especially when you replace it's so-called one HP motor with one of these:

p10-1024E1.jpg


A real 1/2 HP TEFC Leeson motor, about $130 from your local motor rebuild shop, or about $145 from Surplus Center: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-1024&catname=electric


ETA: Another thing you need to do (or should do) is replace the so-called gear oil (more like thick grease) in the gear box. Based on the discussions over on the Hobart weld forums, I used Mobil SHC 630 or 634 (90 vs 140 SAE grade respectively); it's about $14 a quart from McMaster.com.

Al
 
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Unk, I just picked up that saw at PA for 80$, I figure it must be better that the jigsaw I have been using. Although i have only gone through about $15 in blades for the jigsaw, it's a big hassle to hold or try and clamp the bar down so I can cut out my blades. This will at least make it a little easier on my arms (and bench). I also bought a carbon blade for it so I can cut up brass and copper and stuff without ruining my main blade.
 
bladsmth said:
The two numbers are actually the clearances measurements.
Click to expand...

Are you sure the first number isn't the wheel diameter? On my wood bandsaw, a 9", the wheel measure precisely 9". The clearance between blade and blade housing is slightly less than that, due to the thickness of the housing.
 
I have a friend that works at PA so I can get it for last sale price and his staff discount on top of that. I would also modify the trigger into a rheostat and on off switch I could so I could set it and cut then turn it off. I will have to go look at it tomorrow in person first to make sure I can do that though. Would also have to figure out some sort of mount for it to sit in while using it. I would go look today but I am finishing up a sheath and then going over to a friends to visit for a bit.

A jig saw would be better then what I am using right now, a hacksaw:o

What part of NS are you in? My fathers family is from there, in the area of the little fishing town of Lismore and fish the Northumberland Strait.
 
Not to throw cold water on the argument, but I thought it was 4" long by 6" high? Meaning you could rip a 6" high board 4" deep. I can assure you that you can't cut a 4" wide piece past the housing.

Here's a picture explaining it. As you can see, 4" deep 4.5" high, roughly 2" wide. Most knives are less than 2" wide, so not a problem for ripping stock. Some cuts need to be double ended though when doing curves. However, the wheel is 6.5" diameter, maybe that's it.
bandsaw3.jpg
 
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I have a double light switch wired to an outlet for my grinder, so I will just hook it up to the other outlet and have the second switch as the switch when I mount it. I am in the Halifax area, I have some relatives in New Glasgow and stellerton but thats as close as they get.


edit: hehe just flashed up the portaband.. cuts pretty slick. Light pressure on 1/8 O1 and it was just gliding right through it. I think once this is set up as an upright (after I check out the portaband threads on how to rig it up) I can cut out some more blades!! efficiency, what a wonder.:D
 
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tattooedfreak said:
I have a double light switch wired to an outlet for my grinder, so I will just hook it up to the other outlet and have the second switch as the switch when I mount it. I am in the Halifax area, I have some relatives in New Glasgow and stellerton but thats as close as they get.


edit: hehe just flashed up the portaband.. cuts pretty slick. Light pressure on 1/8 O1 and it was just gliding right through it. I think once this is set up as an upright (after I check out the portaband threads on how to rig it up) I can cut out some more blades!! efficiency, what a wonder.:D
Click to expand...

I have spent a fair amount of time in New Glasgow, only place to do any real shopping in the area that my family is from, spent a good amount of coin in the bars there too:o

Great to hear the thing is working for you, guess I will have to get a hold of my buddy to see what my price will be on one. In the mean time I am off to order more steel:thumbup:
 
The clearance for cutting stock on the HF saw is 4", not 2".
 
Tippet said:
well I guess I'll ask for an HF for my birthday.
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Wait till they go on sale then get a 20% off coupon for it. They're usually in all kinds of magazines and I've seen them in TV Guide as well. You should be able to get it for around 150-160 final price I believe.
 
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