Review Metallic Bonded CBN waterstones

1000 grit edge with 1 um diamond spray stropping

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Compared to factory edge on top, CBN edge on bottom
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This is my favorite overall edge, it's the best comprise, has the bite and aggression of a coarse edge and the precisopr push cutting and treetoping of a polished edge.
Good mix of sharpness and endurance.
 
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This customer wanted a higher finish, I made sure he understood the comprimises.

This is a 3000 grit Naniwa diamond Waterstone, diamond in a hard resin bonder
Resin stones tend to finish higher and brighter.

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I then finished on the strop, I don't strop between grits I just did that to show the finish if I stopped at 1k
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Deep scratches are smoothed out, light reflection in the grey line

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Here is my Maxamet Manix 2 with the same edge as my customers Para 3



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M-S-T said:
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1KolxlM

Have used them for years. Metal bond and resin bond. They are pricey but on the other hand, they will literally last a lifetime (metal bond). When they will lose aggressiveness just etch it and it is good as new. I believe they put Atomas and DMTs to rest. Unbeatable price/quality ratio. If you have any question feel free to ask :). I have a few new full sets collecting dust. PM if anyone is interested.
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Can you tell us the best way you have found to refresh them I wouldn't mind hearing from someone who has been using them for a while and getting their feedback on what they find works best.
 
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wade7575 said:
Can you tell us the best way you have found to refresh them I wouldn't mind hearing from someone who has been using them for a while and getting their feedback on what they find works best.
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I used to use oil ( mineral or olive) and kitchen scrub for the resin stones. Resin bond is similar to ceramics and oil lifts all the metal particles very effectively. But if the stones are heavily salted it can be hard to clean them 100% clean. Later I have started using small shapton 1k nagura but I have found that coarse 1k effects the surface of the finest stones (2/1, 3/2, 5/3 micron) making them perform coarser than normal. I have switched to Naniwa nagura that comes with chosera stones and it works fine. The finest resin stones are incredible polishers. If you are a mirror polish lover I would really suggest to try them.
For the metal bond, I don't use anything. Then I got the stones, I have etched them with Ferrous chloride to open the grain and that is it. I don't see any reason to refresh it if it is working aggressive enough to suit my needs. I have used them more than 2 years and they are still performing like new. My coarsest 200/160 stone is getting a little bold, I should etch it soon or just switch to the other side :). Sometimes I clean the surface with the same nagura I use for resin stones. In general, this metal bond is very soft and any nagura can refresh it, no need for any fancy dressing stones. Also when we are talking about coarse stones (200/160 and 100/80 micron) be aware of how much of pressure you are applying, because the bronze bond is a little bit softer than nickel coating ( at least in my experience) on the Atomas or DMTs and you can ripp the diamonds from the matrix.
 
When you used the Ferric Chloride what was the strength you used,do you find the stones cut once they wear flat to the Copper Brass that's what I'm wondering about and figure they will need to be refreshed at that point I'm not talking about refreshing them just for sake of doing it because I know you just going to were them out faster.

Also where did you purchase yours.
 
I have used around 25g for 100ml of warm water, but I believe you can make higher concentration. It will etch faster. On the 200/160 micron and 100/80 micron you can easily see how the grain is coming up to the surface. 50/40 just gets a little bit more shiny. 20/14 micron and up it is impossible to see the grain with a naked eye. It looks like a piece of brass, but believe me, it is full of diamonds. Every bar contains 50 ct of abrasive I believe, which is a lot. When the bar goes bold/flat with the brass it is still cutting, just not that aggressive. They behave like typical nickel coated diamond plates. Very aggressive when new and less abrasive after some use, because of abrasive degradation. So don't worry you can go by feel. If it is not aggressive enough for you- etch it. My two main working horses are 200/160 and 100/80 and I have etched them once after around 80-100 knives (vg10, D2, s35vn, m390, 20cv, s90v) of heavy reprofiling. I have bought them in Ukraine from the local distributor when I visited Kiev.
 
What I was wondering about with the Ferric Chloride when say what strength were you using,did you just use a pre-mixed brand like MG Chemical's or did you get Lab grade stuff that is 40 to 60% pure,I know the 40 to 60% pure stuff can only be purchased by a company in Canada by law.I was thinking about trying the MG Chemical's stuff but I don't want to buy it if it's going to be to weak because I think it's 10% or less I forget the exact percentage it is.

If you could post the brand of Ferric Chloride your using and any info about I would be grateful because that's the million dollar question I can not get any answer to and I don't want purchase something that is as nasty as that stuff and only have it site around because it's not strong enough to work for my needs.

M-S-T said:
I have used around 25g for 100ml of warm water, but I believe you can make higher concentration. It will etch faster. On the 200/160 micron and 100/80 micron you can easily see how the grain is coming up to the surface. 50/40 just gets a little bit more shiny. 20/14 micron and up it is impossible to see the grain with a naked eye. It looks like a piece of brass, but believe me, it is full of diamonds. Every bar contains 50 ct of abrasive I believe, which is a lot. When the bar goes bold/flat with the brass it is still cutting, just not that aggressive. They behave like typical nickel coated diamond plates. Very aggressive when new and less abrasive after some use, because of abrasive degradation. So don't worry you can go by feel. If it is not aggressive enough for you- etch it. My two main working horses are 200/160 and 100/80 and I have etched them once after around 80-100 knives (vg10, D2, s35vn, m390, 20cv, s90v) of heavy reprofiling. I have bought them in Ukraine from the local distributor when I visited Kiev.
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Hello,
I have used pure ferric chloride crystals, that I have purchased on eBay. Paid like 10 dollars or so for 200g. Usually, it is used for PCB etching. As I have mentioned I made a 25% solution. In general, 25% is a weak solution, but I do not wanted for the etching process to go too fast. It worked just fine for me.
I have checked MG Chemical's ferric chloride technical data sheet and it appears that it is 38% solution, so you can use it with no problems. Just remember it is already premixed, so you can use it straight. The used solution you can reuse several times.
I hope it helps :)
 
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