Michigan Vs. Jersey Pattern

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KiwiBloke

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Oct 2, 2018
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I was just reading through some old threads from 2014 about phantom bevels and was admiring this photo posted by double ott of his Kelly Perfect axes.. In looking at the Jersey pattern shape vs. the Michigan pattern it got me thinking what is the major difference in the results the heads produce? I understand the Jersey has those lugs which hold the head onto the haft more securely and a longer bit so what tasks can this head preform better at than the Michigan? And vise versa there must be a job it is less suited for than the Michigan is?

Just some things I am thinking about as I have never seen/used both side by side.
 
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I am wondering if I am getting confused here are the 2 single bits facing the left hand side Dayton's and the one single bit looking right is a Michigan? I only say that because their 2 poles look well squared off compared to the other one?

 
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Also the rounded pole over the squared off pole? Is this purely stylistic or serves to support its overall intended purpose of use?
 
S Square_peg replied that in my thread, about the same subject:

Square_peg said:
Jerseys and Connecticuts have wide bits that make it easier to to overlap your strikes in bucking work. But the wide bit may not penetrate as deeply into a hardwood. It's a give and take.

The rounded poll of the Michigan is more forgiving when you strike a felling wedge with the corner of the poll. The sharper cornered Dayton pattern will indent the wedge more. And I'm talking about wooden or modern plastic wedges. Metal wedges should never be struck with an axe unless the axe is designed for that work and has a hardened poll and a heavy eye.
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Ah Yes! Thanks binoclard I literally wrote this thread and then read that afterwards.

Still interested in knowing why people who have both choose one over the other for certain tasks.. ?
 
KiwiBloke said:
Ah Yes! Thanks binoclard I literally wrote this thread and then read that afterwards.

Still interested in knowing why people who have both choose one over the other for certain tasks.. ?
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I can tell you right now that most michigans I see are fairly heavy with very round cheeks so they'd be pretty good with splitting, other than that idk, never swung an old Michigan. I do have one I need to get to
 
Pound for pound a Michigan will be a little better splitter. But watch out for the newer ones with flat cheeks. While Mann owned Collins they made a ton of these and most American made Collins you find these days fall into this group - those Collins Homesteads with the blue sticker with the big 'C'.

The Jersey will generally be a better bucker, wider, thinner but still convex enough to pop the chip.

And these are all subtle differences. It's really more about what pleases your eye.
 
When doing any job with sufficient frequency, intensity, or duration, small differences add up to make big differences. You won't find much difference between the two in most cases if doing a single small job, but if using it often, intensely, or for extended periods of continuous work you'll find you prefer one preferable to the other.
 
Thank you phantomknives, Square_peg, Axeman, FortyTwoBlades! Appreciate the input. Cleared a lot up for me and it makes sense.

Jersey pattern axes are rarely on the market in NZ (if I had some nice ones I wouldn't be letting them go either) so haven't had the opportunity to get one other than importing which I may end up doing some day.

I am eye up this Michigan True Temper Kelly Perfect however.. I have a TT Flint Edge but it is a hatchet so this would be my first proper vintage American axe (I currently have several euros but am taking my time now and spending my money more wisely to even up the American/Canada - Europe playing field). From what Iv'e seen NZ has a lot of Euro heads, heaps of vintage English Brades and Hytest's as well as Canadian Kelly's mostly being Dandenongs, so would love to acquire a nice vintage American axe now. Other than a new, perhaps longer, handle from my eye it looks mostly in good nick.
 
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Very nice. I like it. That handle is a big bonus in my opinion. Do you know the weight of the head? Most Michigan's seem to be 3.5-4lbs.
 
FLINT77 said:
That handle is a big bonus in my opinion.
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Oh right, apparently the handle is sound with no wiggle but it didn't look like a great hang to me with the gaps as the bottom of the eye. Also the top of the eye is looking a bit weathered. I was thinking a new handle well hung would really make this girl shine. Doesn't have to happen immediately of course but did plan on putting it on the to do list. I am however a novice so perhaps the 'use it until it breaks. replace it.' mindset is most appropriate here.
 
FLINT77 said:
Do you know the weight of the head? Most Michigan's seem to be 3.5-4lbs.
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I do not know unfortunately. It looks sizable but hard to tell with the handle length can make perspective a bit out of wack. I am hoping it is 3.5 - 4.. I really do need something with a bit if heft in it to do splitting work!
 
KiwiBloke said:
Ah Yes! Thanks binoclard I literally wrote this thread and then read that afterwards.

Still interested in knowing why people who have both choose one over the other for certain tasks.. ?
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I may be wrong, but I thought the Michigan pattern was made for cutting frozen hardwoods. The rounded corners of the toe and heel are much stronger than pointed ones and less likely to snap off.
 
KiwiBloke said:
Thank you phantomknives, Square_peg, Axeman, FortyTwoBlades! Appreciate the input. Cleared a lot up for me and it makes sense.

Jersey pattern axes are rarely on the market in NZ (if I had some nice ones I wouldn't be letting them go either) so haven't had the opportunity to get one other than importing which I may end up doing some day.

I am eye up this Michigan True Temper Kelly Perfect however.. I have a TT Flint Edge but it is a hatchet so this would be my first proper vintage American axe (I currently have several euros but am taking my time now and spending my money more wisely to even up the American/Canada - Europe playing field). From what Iv'e seen NZ has a lot of Euro heads, heaps of vintage English Brades and Hytest's as well as Canadian Kelly's mostly being Dandenongs, so would love to acquire a nice vintage American axe now.. What do you guys think of her? Other than a new, perhaps longer, handle from my eye it looks mostly in good nick.



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The hang could be better, but I think that’s a nice looking axe in great shape overall!
 
Jasper33 said:
The hang could be better, but I think that’s a nice looking axe in great shape overall!
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Thanks Jasper appreciate your input. Not much frozen wood around here but definitely some insanely hard wood. Heaps of eucalyptus..hard as steel!
 
KiwiBloke said:
Jersey pattern axes are rarely on the market in NZ (if I had some nice ones I wouldn't be letting them go either) so haven't had the opportunity to get one other than importing which I may end up doing some day.
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Console yourself with a Hytest Forester or Craftsman which are a match for the best American choppers. Very similar to our Connecticut pattern.
 
Jasper33 said:
I may be wrong, but I thought the Michigan pattern was made for cutting frozen hardwoods. The rounded corners of the toe and heel are much stronger than pointed ones and less likely to snap off.
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Having damaged a few axes in hardwoods I would think a frozen sugar maple would be a heck of a challenge. I have looked for historic footage of them being axe felled but have not found one yet. The amount of salvaged maple logs being pulled up from the great lakes says they harvested plenty of them though.
 
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