microscopic image VG-10

i had a friend that asked me about making a reed knife but i didnt take it on as a project yet ill let you know if i do
i like the odd jobs they keep things interesting
 
annr said:
I make reeds for the oboe and spend a fair portion of each session maintaining the edges on my knives. It think that the knife suggestion was offered to help me get a better well just better, better! edge.

I hopped on flicker and found a few photos that show a typical knife and the size of the piece and type of detail that goes into the shaving.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/darkroom_light/96645532/
knife-representative

http://www.flickr.com/photos/quack-a-duck/313985553/
reeds and byproduct- even enlarged you can see the tiny shavings

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mahlersoboes/14233370/
reed show the variation in thicknesses- Judging by this photo, this maker may not have had a sharp enough edge

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stonelucifer/106700616/
tube cane- matieral in its 'raw' form

It is possible that I could use the knife for other things, or even the rough work..
Click to expand...

I don't play the oboe (I'm actually a piano player), but I do understand the attention to detail that has to go into making a reed.

The hollow grind may take a learning curve to use, but I think it would work, just as long as a razor edge is maintained.

I'd go for it, and even if it doesn't work as well as you would like for the reed duties, it's still a great every day carry.:thumbup:

I wish you the best of luck!.:)
 
For that application, I think VG-10 will work fine. In another thread here, it is explained that VG-10 was developed for grafting plants, and therefore is able to take a very fine edge. The Centofante IV is a very thin, light knife. The blade shape makes edge maintenence easy. If you want a flat ground knife, check out the Calypso Jr. and Calypso III. Both are light (the Jr. is lighter) and can be had with VG-10.
 
Another satisfied Centofante IV owner here. It beat out my Yojimbo as my EDC knife.

In addition to being an awesome slicer, it's relatively inexpensive in case you do lose it (one reason why it beat out my Yojimbo). :)
 
Er, it's not that expensive... just buy it and that should be your test. Not to be a party pooper, but, IT'S A KNIFE! Plus, hardness, grain, structure, electrons, etc. won't tell you the one thing you need to know. How's it cut? Case in point: Douk Douk - rough, relatively soft steel (52-53 RC), inexpensive and cuts like a champ. Sure we could get into discussions on lubricity and edge geometry, but at the end of the day, I sharpen it on a fine norton oil stone and it's a crazy slicer.

Conclusion - buy it, try it, enjoy it.
 
Thanks RLR,
I agree with you in large measure, but the fact is I do need a fairly specific edge geometry for the knife to be of use to me.

Mainly: What's wrong with investigating theories utilized by a knifemaker who sells alot of knives to people in my profession?

I realize that this is academic, but chemical compostion and and the like are not irrelevant. Fx. A member of my family works in a shop that produces hand-made flutes. They have a physicist and metallurgist to check the stock: silver, gold and platinum.
 
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