Mirror edges

You said...

Bill DeShivs said:
I stay pretty current on most things cutlery related, being a knife designer and all.
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I didn't say anything about it not working but you very much implied they are "current".

Let's also not confuse abrasive types too much, corumdum and carborundum are not the same thing.

As for your response which contained quotes from the manufacturer, well, not everything you read on the internet is true.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Mine is 30 years old. Because it's not "current" doesn't mean it doesn't work. After 30+ years of use there is no visible wear on the stone, and it works VERY well. Try that with waterstones!
Probably the reason they aren't widely used is bacause they were extremely expensive years ago, before it was common to spend big money on sharpening stones.

"Degussit Ruby Bench Stones are ideal for sharpening tools and gravers – even carbide. May be used dry or with Gesswein Stoning Oil. The pure, sintered crystals of synthetic ruby have an outstanding resistance to wear, which makes them more economical than other stones. They will not groove even after years of use. In addition to metals, they may be used on other materials such as glass, porcelain and quartz.

Ideal for sharpening knives and gravers made of high speed steel or carbide."

" Gesswein Ruby Stones are used to hone carbide and cut the hardest steels. Use these dry or with honing oil to grind, touch up or deburr steel and carbide parts. Gesswein Stones are made from pure sintered crystals of synthetic ruby. No bonding material is used, therefore, these stones are resistant to changes in shape and are extremely hard. Gesswein Ruby Stones are also recommended for used with glass quartz and porcelain. They have outsanding resistance to wear, leave very little grit on a sharpened blade, and are more economical to use that other comparable tools."

"These fine grinding stones are made of Degussit DD57 (sintered ruby) which is a homogenous mixed-crystal material. The main element is aluminum oxide. The characteristic red colour is the result of an admixture of chromium oxide.

Because Degussit DD57 is a homogenous ceramic material which is bondfree, these stones cannot be classified in terms of "grit" but only in terms of the average grain size. The average grain size of types "fine" and "medium" is about 10µ. Type "coarse" has two average grain sizes at about 10µ and 100µ.

No bonding material is used, so these stones and files are extremely hard and resistant to changes in shape. This is particularly important for quality precision grinding and finishing."
These are quotes from various sites about the ruby stone.
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The Degussit are rated for Tungsten carbide, Vanadium is a few points up the scale yet. I'm interested to see how this works out. Without magnification there isn't a whole lot to go on, that stone can certainly work the steel matrix to the point where it should appear pretty polished. What's happening along the apex is a bit more problematic. Again, at the low end of the rated Mohs for vanadium carbides, that stone should have no notable problem anyway.
 
knifenut1013 said:
You said...



I didn't say anything about it not working but you very much implied they are "current".

Let's also not confuse abrasive types too much, corumdum and carborundum are not the same thing.

As for your response which contained quotes from the manufacturer, well, not everything you read on the internet is true.
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Someone said I might not know what is current.
I'm not confused at all.
I can't prove what the manufacturer says, but my stone looks exactly as it did the day I bought it many years ago.
 
I guess all that's left is pictures. Let's see if then can do the walking for the talking.
 
Don't know if anyone is still interested in this but I have got the best mirror edge I can get with it being convex.
I started this thread because theapostlep did amazing. The reason is, a perfect v edge will simply look more like a real mirror! A convex looks like a fun house mirror. Simple as that.
After all my time into the mirror edge, I find I really like 220-600 grit finished on the paper wheel. Just my preference for an edc knife.

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No mirror here, but it cuts like dream! :-)
Thank you to both theapostlep and Richardj for the lessons learned, both Damn fine sharpeners!
 
I have not read through this entire thread but I freehand on diamond and finish on a Spyderco UF stone. I tend to get a slight convex by the looks of things (I get that fun-house mirror effect). Here is one I did a while ago.

Andre van Heerden M16 folder with S35VN.

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I would personally go with the edge pro. I have both setups but have only done a few knives on the WE, not impressed with it yet. The edge pro gave me a really nice polish on my third knife after I figured out I needed to adjust for each stone. I thought that they were all the same when new, not the case. My 220 stone is a whole lot thicker than the rest of them and caused me trouble on the first two knives. I knew that after use and flattening I would need to adjust but not when new. Live and learn.

Sharpnessis, looks good. It is nice knowing you have the skillset to make a knife shine. For me I am leary to want to use that edge so i am with you on the less is more sometimes=)
 
Neither I would go with the EPP ;)

That being said I would take the EPA over the WEPS any day of the week.

Its nearly impossible to prevent cross contamination of your strops on the WEPS. And the EPA is more versatile. The aftermarket for both is identical so anything I have for the EPP is available for the WEPS.

IN all honesty though , I would just be concerned with getting a knife sharp first. Once your doing that as you progress to finer and finer abrasives you will develop a mirror without trying too.
 
Sadden said:
Neither I would go with the EPP ;)
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I agree, I really like my pro model. Also agree on the WEPS issue, still haven't loaded up my strops for that very reason. Put the whole deal on a shelf for now because I don't want to buy more strops.
 
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