Mirrored edges, whats the point?

So is anyone aware of Spyderco's micron coversion, or grit conversion on their ceramics? I am definitely interested in trying some coarser finishes. As I usually go right up to Spyderco's Ultra Fine and then to .25 Micron diamonds on a strop.
 
Steel130 said:
So is anyone aware of Spyderco's micron coversion, or grit conversion on their ceramics? I am definitely interested in trying some coarser finishes. As I usually go right up to Spyderco's Ultra Fine and then to .25 Micron diamonds on a strop.
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The brown Med rods are around 14~15 Micron, Fine is around 6 Microns, UF is around 3 Microns.
 
Ankerson said:
The brown Med rods are around 14~15 Micron, Fine is around 6 Microns, UF is around 3 Microns.
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Thanks Ankerson. I am on Congress Tools now. I think I am going to try the SiC stones, which stone size did you buy? The 1 x 1/2 x 6?
 
Razorsharp-Travis said:
I do it cause I like the looks of it, I generally add a Microbevel right after its done. It also reminds me how far my freehanding has come
2012-07-15_15-22-21_210.jpg
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Wow! Freehand! Nice work!
 
Ankerson said:
I was comparing ~14 Micron to .5 Micron.
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We also tested in different ways with different parameters, no contention. A major difference is that the CATRA test maintains the same load throughout, so there's no comparison of how little force can be used to slice, or how much you have to increase the force to continue slicing. The similar performance in that respect is not too surprising, wear on the same steel is going to happen in the same way when you are doing the same thing.

It does show that the level of polish is not as detrimental as some people believe, in that they think sharper edges and more polished edges somehow cut less by mechanically failing earlier.
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Really? There have been whole threads to that effect. Ankerson seems to be the most notable person that touts the coarse edge now, ironically. He used to be a polished edge person, now he stops at about 400 grit on most everything as far as I know. I too have started using coarser edges, but not as low as Jim, and not on all knives. Different uses, different edges.
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I have known and been friends with Ank here on the forums for quite a few years. It really is not ironic to me, it takes experimenting with edges of all kinds to really have a well founded opinion. This is of course IMO.

Anyhow, I prefer a toothier edge for my small tradtional EDC knives but mirror polish or toothy they still cut...

I just made a short video of my mirror edged machete. I feel like its been a few years since I modded this one up. It has seen a lot of use, crushed into a few concrete walls around the barn and taken a beating doing what machetes do. In the three years I have done nothing more than strop the edge with different compounds on my leather belt on a grinder. The edge is not perfect but who cares. Here you go...didn't have any newspaper.

[video=youtube;fX95Kil5t0s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX95Kil5t0s&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
The mirror edges may not have been completely on purpose, perhaps just a result. An edge made sharp with cardboard wheels is a mirror finish or fairly close to it. The angle accuracy is probably not as exact as some prefer, but you can go from dull to sharp in just a few minutes. Large chips or nicks will require some extra effort, but a blade that is just dull is polished and sharp in just a few passes. There is an old guy in Bass Pro that will sharpen blade for a buck a piece while you stand there. The previous owner may have just ran across some one like that before giving up the knife.
 
hardheart said:
We also tested in different ways with different parameters, no contention. A major difference is that the CATRA test maintains the same load throughout, so there's no comparison of how little force can be used to slice, or how much you have to increase the force to continue slicing. The similar performance in that respect is not too surprising, wear on the same steel is going to happen in the same way when you are doing the same thing.

It does show that the level of polish is not as detrimental as some people believe, in that they think sharper edges and more polished edges somehow cut less by mechanically failing earlier.
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Yeah I know what CATRA does. :)

I stop at 20 LBS of down force and I am done, but testing until completely dull would take a lot more than that as you know.
 
richstag said:
I have known and been friends with Ank here on the forums for quite a few years. It really is not ironic to me, it takes experimenting with edges of all kinds to really have a well founded opinion. This is of course IMO.

Anyhow, I prefer a toothier edge for my small tradtional EDC knives but mirror polish or toothy they still cut...

I just made a short video of my mirror edged machete. I feel like its been a few years since I modded this one up. It has seen a lot of use, crushed into a few concrete walls around the barn and taken a beating doing what machetes do. In the three years I have done nothing more than strop the edge with different compounds on my leather belt on a grinder. The edge is not perfect but who cares. Here you go...didn't have any newspaper.

[video=youtube;fX95Kil5t0s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX95Kil5t0s&feature=youtu.be[/video]
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Hey long time no see. :D
 
Mirrored edges or polish edges have only 1 defect, polish edges having hard time cutting synthetic staff that's all.
For the rest I don't believe that a toothy edges will cut better or having better edge retention than more finish polish edges. It's a dream.
Anyone who want to change my mind, better to starting showing some evidence or Data. More refinish the polished edge is, and more microscopic small the toothy edge became 2+2=4.
 
Yup, its been a while Ank, but glad to see your still testing! While you have been trying the greatest and latest I have been kicked back enjoying traditionals. Gotta love 'em. See you around my friend.
 
kurodrago said:
Mirrored edges or polish edges have only 1 defect, polish edges having hard time cutting synthetic staff that's all.
For the rest I don't believe that a toothy edges will cut better or having better edge retention than more finish polish edges. It's a dream.
Anyone who want to change my mind, better to starting showing some evidence or Data. More refinish the polished edge is, and more microscopic small the toothy edge became 2+2=4.
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Some of us have tons of data to back it up. ;)
 
I used to do a mirrored edge a few of my knives. Using the Edge Pro made it easy. I got lazy of late and haven't done it recently. After reading this thread, I will do it on my Sebenza which I almost always carry with me.
 
Steel130 said:
Thanks Ankerson. I am on Congress Tools now. I think I am going to try the SiC stones, which stone size did you buy? The 1 x 1/2 x 6?
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I got these, and in a bunch of different grits, they're so cheap, I wanted to try them. They are really different from anything I've used, they're smaller than a bench stone, and you HAVE to use a lubricant. I took a stroke across the stone dry, and a cloud of abrasive billowed up. You don't want to be breathing that. These things suck up water like a waterstone, but they work well, I'm still getting the hang of them.
 
Mirrored edges work well on my straight razors, but are useless on my Serrata investment cast 440C. I also prefer mirrored edges on my woodworking tools, but like a toothy edge on my more general purpose knives. Some steels perform better with mirror edges some with toothy edges. Horses for courses and the right tool for the job are 2 phrases that spring to mind here
 
sodak said:
I got these, and in a bunch of different grits, they're so cheap, I wanted to try them. They are really different from anything I've used, they're smaller than a bench stone, and you HAVE to use a lubricant. I took a stroke across the stone dry, and a cloud of abrasive billowed up. You don't want to be breathing that. These things suck up water like a waterstone, but they work well, I'm still getting the hang of them.
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Thanks for that info. I was coming back to this thread to ask that very thing. Do you just use water? Thats what I used on the Ruby stones I purchased from them. And do you know if the stones need to be flattened over time? Or have you had to yet?
 
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