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Modern Scout knife - Need help
- Thread starter Sal Glesser
- Start date
It's disappointing to see so many people advocate knives w/o points for boy scouts. Whats the worse that could happen...a bandaid? Its not the point but the blade that slices and needs stitches. A boy scout needs a point for digging grubs out of wood, whittling, craft projects, etc. My kids get their own small knives around 7, with points. Never needed anything more than a bandaid.
Spyderco should stay out of the scout knife business. There are plenty of good blades already available.
Spyderco should stay out of the scout knife business. There are plenty of good blades already available.
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2003
- Messages
- 3,734
How about a variation of Eric's sailor knife (sorry forgot what it is called) that I saw at NYCKS last November. What a cool knife. I think the overall design is non threatening to sheeple, the ball-bearing lock has that cool gadget factor. BTW when is this design coming out?
You already have a knife on the boards that would make an acceptable knife. Change the handle color of the UK Penknife and you could have a Scout knife that you could sell everywhere.
Spyderwa
Rare Spyderco Resource Page
www.angelfire.com/trek/spyderwa
Spyderwa
Rare Spyderco Resource Page
www.angelfire.com/trek/spyderwa
Trying to remember that far back... was the flint blade held in with deer sinew or was it elk?
I would advocate a locking 2 1/2" sheepsfoot main blade, a secondary blade about half that with a good sharp point. Two tools, one a can opener/small screw driver, the other a really good wood saw with bottle opener/big screwdriver, ala the SAK Mauser.
The mainblade should be one hand open and have an intergal flipper/guard.
Call it a rescue blade, no scout could resist that image.
The handle should be sturdy, meant to take abuse and non slip. Very non slip. It needs a lanyard, and a pocket clip. If there is room, a pair of tweezers with a point for removing splinters would be nice.
I like the markings idea, maybe morse code, the standard air rescue signals, "Who dares wins" oops, wrong scouts.
I can't figure a way to put in a rescue mirror, but that's about all I can come up with.
I would advocate a locking 2 1/2" sheepsfoot main blade, a secondary blade about half that with a good sharp point. Two tools, one a can opener/small screw driver, the other a really good wood saw with bottle opener/big screwdriver, ala the SAK Mauser.
The mainblade should be one hand open and have an intergal flipper/guard.
Call it a rescue blade, no scout could resist that image.
The handle should be sturdy, meant to take abuse and non slip. Very non slip. It needs a lanyard, and a pocket clip. If there is room, a pair of tweezers with a point for removing splinters would be nice.
I like the markings idea, maybe morse code, the standard air rescue signals, "Who dares wins" oops, wrong scouts.
I can't figure a way to put in a rescue mirror, but that's about all I can come up with.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2000
- Messages
- 375
a few things:
a thin, not-too-pointy blade (i had my first knife confiscated by my father many years ago after cutting myself mildly after a short time)-gotta be able to whittle. make it an easy safe locker or a nice stout slipjoint. i'm thinking that a clipless, carbide glass-breaker-free (since it's unnecessary), thinner and shorter-bladed PE assist I (the whistle would be a great feature, also, the tip guard might not need to be quite as thick-just enough so as to make it hard to accidentally stick oneself) ergonomically scaled to a fairly small size (e.g. dragonflyish) in frn would be nearly perfect, especially if a dyad-style opposing can opener could be incorporated. a thin, flatground, fairly tough and corrosion-resistant (we're talking about in many cases, fairly young folk who may not have the reverence some of us have for not leaving a fine tool in the rain/mud)-maybe an ats-55, aus-something, etc. h-1 is probably overkill, but you know how a young scout can be. build quality should be on par with other models-it's important to instill in the youth a healthy respect for a quality tool. maybe even a simple sharpening system w/sheath that can carry both knife and sharpener (though the sharpmaker at its price point is right nice as is). no need for serrations/saws i don't think, as there won't be need for more than one or two hatchets/saws/etc in a standard troop. the real trouble is getting all of these features together at a pricepoint that is reasonable for most scouts' parents. (there are plenty of fine small case knives that are popular in this demographic) i'm thinking that a 2.5" blade and 3.5" closed is a fine size, and should be legal just about anywhere. might have to skip the tip guard or at least be easy with it so as to allow a little tip-work when whittling/etc. i love the kiwi design and think it could work, but perhaps in a more synthetic handle stock, more obtuse tip, with a whistle and opposing can opener.
i think that's enough rambling toward that end for now.
a thin, not-too-pointy blade (i had my first knife confiscated by my father many years ago after cutting myself mildly after a short time)-gotta be able to whittle. make it an easy safe locker or a nice stout slipjoint. i'm thinking that a clipless, carbide glass-breaker-free (since it's unnecessary), thinner and shorter-bladed PE assist I (the whistle would be a great feature, also, the tip guard might not need to be quite as thick-just enough so as to make it hard to accidentally stick oneself) ergonomically scaled to a fairly small size (e.g. dragonflyish) in frn would be nearly perfect, especially if a dyad-style opposing can opener could be incorporated. a thin, flatground, fairly tough and corrosion-resistant (we're talking about in many cases, fairly young folk who may not have the reverence some of us have for not leaving a fine tool in the rain/mud)-maybe an ats-55, aus-something, etc. h-1 is probably overkill, but you know how a young scout can be. build quality should be on par with other models-it's important to instill in the youth a healthy respect for a quality tool. maybe even a simple sharpening system w/sheath that can carry both knife and sharpener (though the sharpmaker at its price point is right nice as is). no need for serrations/saws i don't think, as there won't be need for more than one or two hatchets/saws/etc in a standard troop. the real trouble is getting all of these features together at a pricepoint that is reasonable for most scouts' parents. (there are plenty of fine small case knives that are popular in this demographic) i'm thinking that a 2.5" blade and 3.5" closed is a fine size, and should be legal just about anywhere. might have to skip the tip guard or at least be easy with it so as to allow a little tip-work when whittling/etc. i love the kiwi design and think it could work, but perhaps in a more synthetic handle stock, more obtuse tip, with a whistle and opposing can opener.
i think that's enough rambling toward that end for now.
