modern take on classic design...

Bill: Haaaaaaaaa Haaaaaaaaa!!! The HI anchor!! :D

Point taken. 17"? :) I'm talking about overall length, not just blade length. I wasnt thinking 1/2" thick all the way through, just at the spines.

As far as weight goes, perhaps I should locate a postal scale or something and weigh some of my other Kuks (most are either 3/8 to 7/16 of an inch thick). My concern is sacrificing strength in order to cut down on weight. Plus, how often do you see a knife that's 1/2 inch thick!?


So, how about 17" OAL, 3/8 or 7/16 of an inch thick? Can someone please ballpark me a weight?

Thanks!
 
:
Originally posted by manghu
My concern is sacrificing strength in order to cut down on weight. Plus, how often do you see a knife that's 1/2 inch thick!?
Click to expand...

Manghu with the YCS blade you won't be sacrificeing strength to cut down on weight.
The YCS blade is like an "I" beam in its construction. That's the main reason for the 2 deep fullers.
The fullers do knock a lot off the weight, but for the same size blade in full thickness, ie without the fullers,
the YCS wouldn't be as strong. And that would be if a man could bend either
one.:D
The blade on one of my YCS's is right at 7/16" at the bolster, a tad less than 3/8" at the end of the Sword of Shiva, 0.275 or a tad over 1/4" at the top of the 1st fuller and 0.260 exactly 0.010 over 1/4" at the 2nd fuller at the edge of the blade bevel. The thickness of the top fuller is about 1/4" and the bottom one a bit over 3/16 inch at about
0.200 inch.
All along the top of the edge bevel it runs an average of 1/4" thick which is as wide as most Bowies.
I doubt that even Cliff Stamp could bend any of my YCS rigs, although he might bend or break one given 2 years of hard use and abuse like another knife he broke not long ago.
But I doubt it even then.:D
 
I just added an image of a few of the "prototype" prototypes on the site at the beginning of this thread, incase anyone is interested in what led to all this madness... :D

If it's alright with you Uncle, I'll throw up some links to this forum and to the HIMIMP site...

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone... I'm back at the drawing board making revisions...
 
If it is going to be positioned as military, or paramilitary, make sure your attachment system is a perfect match with other military gear.

One more item:
What are the little tools for? And, why couldn't you replace the lot of them with a medium size SAK inserted into a nice versatile pocket or two on the sheath?

Other than that 1/2 inch would be very heavy. You may want to keep it at 5/16 or below.

N2S
 
Ok I'm just bouncing off the walls in anticipation of getting my hands on one of these toys. The 15' and 20' (degrees) versions look very nice and even menacing which is always a good thing.
 
Uncle: Thanks! I'll get those up probably this evening...

not2sharp: This is just a concept knife I'm desiging for myself because there isn't an affordable, quality knife on the market that has everything that I want in a knife (it's to be a set of two, actually)... If this were going to go into production, as Uncle has already stated, there are a lot of logistics that would need to be addressed (like who would do handles, who would do sheaths, what options are to be available, how does the hardware needed for manufacture get from here to its recipients in Nepal, etc)...

As far as positioning goes, this is meant to be a Khukuri that can handle whatever you throw at it... A REAL survival knife that you can bet your life on when the chips are down, whether it's being used to build a shelter, start a fire, hunt, scrape barnacles off the side of a ship, diving, or defending your life in combat... You name it, this is the blade that can do it... With that in mind, I would say that it's ideal for military users (wish I'd had one of these back in my Combat Engineer days in the Army!)...

Also, please bear in mind that what you've seen so far is only a peice of an entire package... There are a lot of details I haven't released thus far because I'm still designing this beast... :D

At it's thickest point, this blade will probably be no more than 7/16" thick, tapering towards the pommel and handle, and will probably be no longer than 16" (thanks to Yvsa and Bill for the weight gut check :D)...

As far as SAKs go, it's a good idea, but they break too easily... The tools that I've designed are much stronger than a folding knife, and durability and reliability are parmount in this endeavor...
 
:
Well Manghu I can see a need for the karda and chakma, tweezers, punch and chisel, but why the old timey "buttonhook?"
I can see that for cleaning the crap outta your ears, but that's something you wouldn't want that heavy duty unless ya got awfully big ears.:D

In fact a screwdriver would come in more handy and you could put an averaged size screwdriver to multiple tasks whereas the buttonhook is sorta limited.:)
 
Yvsa: Just call me Dumbo! :D

So THATS what that damn thing is!!! I've been using it as a scraper, at which it does and excellent job. Mine has a rounded tip, so it removes whatever you're scraping off of whatever, and it doesn't leave nasty gouges. Plus it's great for getting at those hard to reach spots. Like my immense ears, for example. :D If you're a pipe smoker, this is a great tool.

Since several people have expressed interest in this rigs military applications, a buttonhook would work great for tearing down and cleaning a firearm such as an M-16 or and M9 (thats a Beretta 92F for you non-military folk), or perhaps even a AK (Not sure about that. Yvsa? Anyone?). Take the M-16 for example. The buttonhook has a comfy flat spot to rest your finger on, and is long enough to reach inside an M-16's bolt carrier for scraping carbon deposits. On the bolt itself (where all kinds of carbon builds up), you could also use it to remove that annoying little pin that holds the extractor in place.

As far as the screwdriver goes, good idea, but remember that unseen fifth tool that I said I was developing? *hint hint*

Man, I LOVE this forum! Technology can be beautiful.
 
The sad part is the kamis are going to lose the hardware you send over and you will end up with a handle like an AK Bowie.
 
Well, Uncle, I still have high hopes for the harware. Perhaps I'm just being overly optimistic. Since I'll be using those bolts to secure handle slabs to the wooden proto, hopefully they will arrive intact and remain unlost. If the Kamis follow the proto (they've done an outstanding job on past projects, it seems) closely, I won't have to worry about reshaping the contours of the tang. If they do a end up losing the hardware and the handle turns out like an AK Bowie's, I can always pry the slabs off and drill the appropriate holes as needed.

You know, the logical side of me says, "Why would anyone want to steal a couple of bolts?". Then I remember that this is Nepal we're talking about, where a wristwatch (something we take for granted in the US) is regarded as a status symbol.
 
I actually got a little work done on this beast this weekend.

Images of slight handle modifications and a couple of sheath prototypes will be up shortly. :D
 
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