Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

I used a Dermel, it matches the stock on my Mossy 500. The head was given a good vinegar bath then when staining the haft I put some on the head I doubt it will last long but it does look good. Thank for the compliments.
 
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I just finished trimming down a Trailhawk today. :D I thinned the handle, the beard, and then hacked the poll. I also lightly sanded and blued the head. Finally rubbed BLO onto the handle. It is now weighing in at 16oz. I can't wait to get out and throw it! :D

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I can see doing further mods to this in the future. Torch the handle, maybe some file work...hmmm:D

Always liked this thread! Inspiring!:thumbup:
 
Has anyone taken a Spike Hawk and re-shaped the bottom to give it a beard? I've got one enroute and have thought of doing something similar.
 
chainring said:
The grip "stipple" is just the one inch wheel on the KMG and get after it. Takes about....3 minutes. Wave on the spine is the same 1 inch wheel. Ferric chloride etch for the Noveske cross, dremel for the Compass Rose, cold blue for the finish and the flat platen with a fine grit belt to do the polished facets on both ends of the handle. Then burn it and stain it. All the same stuff everybody else is doing, really - it's VERY FUN! :-)

Oh, and the shovel I had sand-blasted, which got rid of the black paint AND gave it a nice texture. Kinda cheated there, didn't have to strip the paint off!
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What's a KMG?
 
Great hawks everyone! I just got a CS Pipe Hawk and am going to do some mods on it. One thing I am going to do to fill the set screw hole is grind the point off the screw, Super-glue it in with enough of it sticking out to grind the hex out so it is flush to the head.
Great thread and fun stuff.:thumbup:
 
Markesharp said:
Great hawks everyone! I just got a CS Pipe Hawk and am going to do some mods on it. One thing I am going to do to fill the set screw hole is grind the point off the screw, Super-glue it in with enough of it sticking out to grind the hex out so it is flush to the head.
Great thread and fun stuff.:thumbup:
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How do you intend to get the head off once the handle breaks?
 
Hello all,

I have mod'd a few trail hawks and pipe hawks but at the blade show last weekend picked up my first norse hawk. Love the look and feel and looking forward to mod'ing it and making it look alot better. Have a question. One of the things I noticed is that the top point of the head sits above the top of the handle. So I don't know if I want to go with friction fit as I would need to find a step or a block of material to knock the head back on vs going with a pure friction fit which I have achieved and love on my pipe and trail hawks. So I was thinking for this one I would permanently (more or less) secure the head onto the handle. Any suggestions for this?

If it makes a difference I might want to try throwing this once in awhile which I have never done with any of my other axes. As with a knife I have always preferred having the tool in my hand vs throwing it.

Thanks for any suggestions!
 
Also - at the blade show this past weekend had a chance to hold one of the new CRKT axes. About twice the price of the cold steel axes and a bit heavier but man do they feel good. Would love to see a side by side comparison.
 
I modded my norse hawk to a more traditional tomahawk shape. However, I had it for years as it was when I bought it. I say go with friction fit. There's always something around to bang the end of the handle on if you need to reseat the head. A rock, stump, tree limb, something. If there's nothing around, you probably won't be doing anything with it to knock the head loose in the first place :D
 
Wow, that head is beautiful. What tools did you use to get it to there? Also what tools/process did you use to get the nice mirror finish?
 
obnepec said:
Wow, that head is beautiful. What tools did you use to get it to there? Also what tools/process did you use to get the nice mirror finish?
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I used an angle grinder to cut the spike and remove the forging marks with a flap disc. I also used a handheld belt sander that I upturn and use like a punished! I use that for flattening the poll and a few finer bits on the edge as it came with lots of belts. I did a hit of hand finishing with some medium grit sand paper to remove some spiral scratchs left from the flap disc then had a go with some really cheap eBay buffing wheels!

If you want to start modding I would say he an angle grinder first! Best tool for a man on a budget as it can do everything! Just buy a fewdifferent dicsand you're set!
 
Beautiful, Samon!

Got back from vacation today and my Spike Hawk was waiting for me. The head is nicer than I had hoped, but the handle to head fit is worse than I had feared for. Next is to strip the paint and see what I've really got.

I plan on shortening the spike to less than half the original length. Debating on keeping the blade as is or reshaping with a pronounced beard. I've got plum brown, but thinking of doing my first, proper rust bluing.

Keep the metal rustic, semi-rustic, or polished.........decisions.......
 
Folks here and there saying CS should make a light 'hawk with just a simple hammer poll, like the ground off versions of the Trail Hawk that look so good here. Mine's the old Plainsman's Hawk that came out when the Rifleman's Hawk did a decade or so ago. But the Plainsman's is no longer around. Anyone else here have one?

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It's a bit modified now, with the black enamel gone and cold blued, but it's a worker, so it's no showpiece.

Zieg
 
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Welp, time I throw my hat in the mix. Long-time creeper, first time poster. I just ordered my first CS Trailhawk and am stoked to get started. I'd like to achieve a very similar patina and etch as dougelder's son did here. Wish me luck. First attempt will be a gift for my dad. No telling how many will be birthed after that. The inspiration here is incredible and I can't wait to get started.
 
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