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mora
- Thread starter gonebad395
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That's odd, as it's not been my experience in the slightest. I find the edge retention and durability to be so similar as to be virtually indistinguishable. The only difference I find (besides corrosion resistance, of course) is in the speed of resharpening, in which the carbon blades are a bit faster to touch up.
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Nice knives,have couple and still use them ,they always performed!I have reground mine to flat-convex ,and they cut even better.Excellent choice for money!
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Just got one of these (Bahco 2444) for $ 9.07. It's just a rebranded stainless Companion and the best deal on a Mora made knife, ever !
Moras are great knives. They are one of the few knives that I think everyone should try at some point, both because they're great, and because they're very inexpensive. That, and
That said, the scandi grind wouldn't be my first choice for a hunting knife. Its excellent on wood, but not really great at slicing. They'll work for it of course, just personally wouldn't be my first choice as a hunting knife.
Grats on the new steel :thumbup:.
That said, the scandi grind wouldn't be my first choice for a hunting knife. Its excellent on wood, but not really great at slicing. They'll work for it of course, just personally wouldn't be my first choice as a hunting knife.
Grats on the new steel :thumbup:.
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That's why I like the Pro Flex. It's a very thin FFG that's still more than stiff enough for everything I've thrown at it.
Thanks for the tip on that one, I saw it in your other post, but wasn't sure because of the lighting/angle if it wasn't a scandi grind or not. I've never seen that one before. Looking around it looks like there are a few other "Flex" models as well (craftline at least).
Did you discover this one after you started modding other Moras to be FFG?
And a .05in thick blade? That is quite thin. In fact, this might make me feel less awful that I missed out on the AG Russell Deer Hunter while it was in production. Does the blade in fact have a lot of flex to it?
Did you discover this one after you started modding other Moras to be FFG?
And a .05in thick blade? That is quite thin. In fact, this might make me feel less awful that I missed out on the AG Russell Deer Hunter while it was in production. Does the blade in fact have a lot of flex to it?
I love my Moras and as much as I want, and do own other "higher end" blades.. I find myself using the my Mora knives more than any other.
I find that my companion in stainless is quite hard, it holds a good edge for a very long time, but is difficult to resharpen compared to the companion in carbon. The carbon blade holds an edge as long as the 12C27, but sharpens MUCH easier, and to a much keener edge. By far, my mora companion MG in high carbon is the sharpest and keenest edge I own.
I find that my companion in stainless is quite hard, it holds a good edge for a very long time, but is difficult to resharpen compared to the companion in carbon. The carbon blade holds an edge as long as the 12C27, but sharpens MUCH easier, and to a much keener edge. By far, my mora companion MG in high carbon is the sharpest and keenest edge I own.
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I love my mora, I plan on adding several mora to my collection..I went with the 12c27 stainless companion, and it has excellent edge retention especially considering I've been running a zero scandi on it.when it finally does need sharpening it takes an edge relatively easy and polishes up easy as well...
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This particular variation came out after I had started modifying Moras, but they had had the blade in production for a while. A FFG on a Robust or Companion is a bit different than this piece, though, as it's still substantially thicker and stiffer. The blade really only flexes, though, when you deliberately try to do so. Much like a stiff paring knife in that respect, but a bit more durable.
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I sharpen everything freehand, so its super easy. I guess mine is at the factory... 11.5 degree angle? Scandi ground blades are super simple to sharpen by hand because of the huge flat bevel, so perhaps give it a try. Otherwise, I guess I'd strop it until I couldn't make do anymore, then maybe sharpen at 12 degrees per side? 12 is still pretty acute, and I'd be worried about reducing the edge angle too much more and getting chipping... so yeah, 12 is what I guess I'd do if I were you, if you don't want to freehand sharpen it.
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I sharpen mine like I do any scandi, just lay the bevel flat and evenly remove material from the entire grind. If I do a micro bevel I lift slightly on a fine grit and do a couple light strokes on each side.
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Close. The factory angle on non-Robust models is 12.5° per side.
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There may be old posts in the archives but I'm going to ask the question now anyway. I have several Mora knives and really like them but I wonder if anybody has performance tested them? How many rope cuts before they dull? Can they withstand the brass rod edge test? How about clamping in a vice and bending?
Them seem to be working well for you. Are you planning on putting them in a vise and bending them for some reason?
herisson
Apple slicing rocking chair dweller
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The thinner the blade (and the flatter the grind), the better it cuts. The thicker the blade and the obtuser the bevels, the better it chops and pries. There is no way around that. Looking for a "jack of all trades" is understandable, and some knives comme really close to, but they are also quite poor performers in both realms. So... the bending ability of a Mora (any Mora) is not relevant : they are dedicated cutters. Some models may have an aim at more prying ability (don't expect ABS levels of performance...) and they could satisfy you, if you really need that functionality. But the scandi grind by itself tends to "pry" out the wood when carving (on thicker blades, like 0.12" and more). I like them with 0.12" to 0.09" thickness because it enhances the cutting awesomeness of the Scandinavian steels. And I sure get a blast out of these (thin) knives...