More first folder questions

Okay I just placed an order for CPM 154 but stumbled upon some info about CPMS 30V. I have experience with ATS-34 and 154-CM so I thought the natural progression would be the powdered version. I was at the Crucible site and from their data 30 seems like a much better choice. It HT's about the same it grinds easier and has a better wear resistance. But when I look at the Jantz site they say it's harder to grind which is why I didn't go that route. Now I tend to think Crucible understands their product better but Jantz dealers with a lot of Knifemakers. What say you guys? I think I would like to change my steel order, but I wanted to ask the question first.
 
Also for what ever reason my computer keeps getting bumped from the site and searching on the iPad via Tapatalk kinda sucks.
 
aslink. There are many good knife steels out there. I want you to catch up to asking making questions before I post much more. I did want to suggest here that the cut out on the blade for the spring to enter should be at 8 degress and ground with 120 grit. The leaf will later be ground with a 400 grit or less (I use a 16 grit) These three factors will let the lock work properly without causing the liner to bind in the lock or for it to produce a weak lock up.
Frank.
 
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CPM S30V is supposed to have more wear resistance than 154CM, yet be harder to grind and polish. CPM S35VN was supposed to have made the grinding and polishing easier than S30V, yet still provide the extra wear resistance supposedly provided by S30V. I've worked with all three and cannot tell a difference while grinding and finishing S30V and S35VN. 154CM is probably a bit easier to work with before heat treat.

In then end, it really won't matter much. The final performance of the blade is dependent mostly upon the quality of the heat treat.

You should feel good that the 154CM that you ordered will provide stellar performance if heat treated properly and will probably be easier to grind and finish than S30V or S35VN.

Mike L.
 
Again thanks Frank, great info on the grinds for the springs. I did read in Bob's book the an angle of 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 were the best on the blade so I figured shoot for the middle and I'd be good, glad to see I wasn't to far from the mark.

Not to be a jerk but the steel on order is CPM 154. Seeing how I was going to try something new I really wanted it to be worth the learning curve if there was one. One thing I forgot to mention was at Crucible they said CPM 154 was oil quenched. I'm not set up to oil quench where as CPMS 30V is air quenched due to my working with ATS-34 and 154CM I'm more comfortable going with CPMS 30V.

I'm trying to work through my recent confusion so I can fix my order if need be.

One last thing it seems every knife I look at lately is made with CPMS 30V if it is really that nice of a steel I'd like to switch especially if my biggest hurdle would only be hardness in grinding.
 
First to Mike. I don't have a surface grinder or a milling machine but have been making liner locks for about 35 years. I'm sure pleased I didn't try to wait until I did them.
aslink, Most CPM154 I know is air cooled. Alfa knife Supply has many steels listed for sale. They also have the go to it heat treating directions. I send all my stainless out for heat treat.
Frank
 
I'm now in the waiting state for orders to be shipped. I ended up going with CPMS 35VN, could be a mistake or the best thing ever. We'll see.
 
I did use some CPM35VN. It works well if I remember correctly but I don't believe it polishes very well. I used a satin hand finish
Frank.
 
Some good info here,
Frank glad to hear a surface grinder and mill are not a necessity. I'm wanting to make a frame lock in the near future and have neither.
Justin
 
I posted a bunch of absolutely proven info about the lock in a thread about a weak detent. My lack of even minor computer skills and not being able to send pictures to the forum has made me feel I should stay only with individuals on line and here at home. I decided the other day to try to do more for more. I sure hope it will work.
Here is some things that may help people without a surface grinder to go ahead. It has always seemed to me that if the part can be sized down, do that first. For me I found that was a mistake. It worked better if I left the piece in rectangle shape and did my thickness sizing , then do the shaping. As well I also learned that .010 is a lot more than it sounds when you want to take that off of that rectangle. Some may think that a new 400 belt will be the one to go with but in fact a new 60 grit is what to use with care of course to begin with and then some hand sanding on the granite or whatever plate with 120 grit on it.
Frank
 
I heard it didn't polish well so my plan was satin or in the future tumble it. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Okay, I've finally wrapped up my last project and acquired what I think is my supplies and tooling to get started. I purchased some .05 7075 T6 as template material to work instead of the planned Titanium for the finished knife. I had a though if I'm using the Ti on the spring side could the 7075 be used on the other side? Or is it too soft?
 
Hello again, Aslink. I have no idea what that is like. Why not use a proven material and proven procedures on this first one and do the playing around on the next?
 
My plan was to use Ti on both sides I was just curious if someone had an answer to my silly question.

I will probable mess around with it on my personal folder to check it out.
 
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