Motor Oil vs Blade Steel:

Vlade said:
And how many more miles per gallon are they getting using such a lightweight oil. 1% more? What happens if you throw a little thicker oil in there? Would the dealer know?
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don't know. they don't release that data that I've seen. just heard it.

also dont know. we have to assume engineers make choices based on hitting requirements and standards and.....whether they like it or not....also meeting some economic and some marketing reasons.
 
Engineers? That says everything I don't like them. They don't have a clue what they're doing and they refuse to learn from Hands-On people.
 
Come to think of it there was a threat. This is all JB monkey's fault. He did it. I don't remember anything. I didn't see nothing I didn't say nothing I didn't hear nothing. But it's all his fault
 
99 degree weather doesn’t mean much to motor oil in an internal combustion engine. In a lot of applications that is considered cold for oil. It will be slightly thinner at colder(winter) temps which is extremely important since it flows better i.e lubricates quicker on starts which is when a lot of engine wear occurs. Running at steady state isn’t a very difficult situation as long as you have good oil pressure/flow, good filtration and are cool enough to keep the oil from breaking down which is generally hundreds of degrees depending on the particular oil. Some of the viscosity curves are surprising for different weight motor oils at the temps they see in a combustion engine.
 
ScarFoot said:
99 degree weather doesn’t mean much to motor oil in an internal combustion engine. In a lot of applications that is considered cold for oil. It will be slightly thinner at colder(winter) temps which is extremely important since it flows better i.e lubricates quicker on starts which is when a lot of engine wear occurs. Running at steady state isn’t a very difficult situation as long as you have good oil pressure/flow, good filtration and are cool enough to keep the oil from breaking down which is generally hundreds of degrees depending on the particular oil. Some of the viscosity curves are surprising for different weight motor oils at the temps they see in a combustion engine.
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Okay but I got a theory and it's worked for the past 50 years. If you open up the journals to accept a thicker oil the oil would be less likely to drip off of the upper engine parts such as camshaft Etc. Providing a cushion of oil upon startup. If you're using a light oil it would be in the oil pan a lot faster than a thicker oil. That's just my thoughts anyway. I used to run straight 30 weight. And never had a oil related problem. But I got to use what the book says so I'm stuck with 0w-20. If I don't they will try to void my warranty. I don't like it but I got to use it
 
Vlade said:
Okay but I got a theory and it's worked for the past 50 years. If you open up the journals to accept a thicker oil the oil would be less likely to drip off of the upper engine parts such as camshaft Etc. Providing a cushion of oil upon startup. If you're using a light oil it would be in the oil pan a lot faster than a thicker oil. That's just my thoughts anyway. I used to run straight 30 weight. And never had a oil related problem. But I got to use what the book says so I'm stuck with 0w-20. If I don't they will try to void my warranty. I don't like it but I got to use it
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Once you open up the journal clearances you get more slop. More slop means the shaft is kind of bouncing around inside, not good for durability. Proper oil with tight tolerances can provide very good wear characteristics. I've seen some of these "new motors" from Mazda with 250k+ on them that are still running fine.....
How much the oil drips isn't necessarily dependent on viscosity. To actually make the oil stay in place, you'd need some sort of polymer tackifier like what is found in chainsaw bar oil. The problem there is you can't because it would not allow proper flow into the places where there are tight tolerances or very small oil galleys.
Perhaps you should do some research on oil grading and see what all the numbers mean for your car.....
 
Vlade said:
Okay but I got a theory and it's worked for the past 50 years. If you open up the journals to accept a thicker oil the oil would be less likely to drip off of the upper engine parts such as camshaft Etc. Providing a cushion of oil upon startup. If you're using a light oil it would be in the oil pan a lot faster than a thicker oil. That's just my thoughts anyway. I used to run straight 30 weight. And never had an oil related problem. But I got to use what the book says so I'm stuck with 0w-20. If I don't they will try to void my warranty. I don't like it but I got to use it
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But 5w-20, 10w-20 or 0w-20 are all going to have the same viscosity when the motor is running and/or hot. I don’t disagree with your premise about holding oil but that is generally seen on very large low rpm industrial machines with very heavy weight oil. Combustion engines run so much hotter because of the combustion process that you won’t get oil to stick after you shut the engine off. Also since this is a knife forum here is a picture of a knife.
30C4B882-7DDA-43D9-BB14-F4ADF2DD33F0.jpeg
 
Vlade said:
Why are today's engines using 0w-20 motor oil? Somebody mentioned something about motor oil so I figured I'd inquire. Don't you think it's too light?
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On that note, what’s with some brands stating to change the oil only every 10,000 miles? Looking at you Toyota
 
I read the title to this thread and thought it was gonna be about using motor oil on a knife.

Which could be done, but I would think it would attract more dirt and maybe be unhealthy if used for food.

But hey, Nutnfancy uses WD-40 to baton, so there's that little tidbit of trivia.

And in regards to using motor oil in your vehicle, yes, do that too.

😁

I am militant in changing oil, to the point of obsessive. I do it often, and much sooner than what any manufacturer recommends. They are in the selling business, and not necessarily keen on people keeping their cars for long periods of time.

Use the good stuff, and change it a lot. Your engine will thank you. And don't overfill!
 
ibute21 said:
On that note, what’s with some brands stating to change the oil only every 10,000 miles? Looking at you Toyota
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3-5k was arbitrary and based off tire rotation schedule from what I recall. The better question is why do manufacturers make their oil filters to where you have to drain the oil to replace them? The oil could go longer than 10k if with better filtration.
 
ibute21 said:
On that note, what’s with some brands stating to change the oil only every 10,000 miles? Looking at you Toyota
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Better oil technology means more extended maintenance intervals....

ScarFoot said:
is a knife forum here is a picture of a knife.
View attachment 2106565
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I hear 5w20 is a good pivot lube......works good in hot and cold weather, able to get into tight pivot pin clearances easily...
 
ScarFoot said:
3-5k was arbitrary and based off tire rotation schedule from what I recall. The better question is why do manufacturers make their oil filters to where you have to drain the oil to replace them? The oil could go longer than 10k if with better filtration.
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Honestly, I don’t trust the 10k miles and change mine every 3kish. Then again my Tacoma only has 12k on it. Or it could be that this is my first truck that I’m the first to fart in the seats so I want to baby it.
 
I'm a Yota fanboy too. I got four in my garage right now, ranging from a 85 4Runner with 500,000 on the clock to a second gen Tacoma. They love fresh oil often, and that truck of yours will treat you good for a long time.
 
ibute21 said:
Honestly, I don’t trust the 10k miles and change mine every 3kish. Then again my Tacoma only has 12k on it. Or it could be that this is my first truck that I’m the first to fart in the seats so I want to baby it.
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I get what you’re saying but the the 3k “standard” doesn’t mean much. Running hours would be a better reference. Some vehicles run parked for hours. I’m not trying to get you to change your routine. It’s just more arbitrary than people realize and it benefits the oil companies so they ain’t gonna stop you…
 
MolokaiRider said:
I'm a Yota fanboy too. I got four in my garage right now, ranging from a 85 4Runner with 500,000 on the clock to a second gen Tacoma. They love fresh oil often, and that truck of yours will treat you good for a long time.
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This is my first. My wife grew up with Toyotas and she likes them, but she drives a GMC currently. I picked up the Tacoma in November 2021 since they were the only brand not being marked up by the dealer locally. It’s a good truck, definitely different from the Chevys and GMCs I grew up driving.
 
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