Motor Oil vs Blade Steel:

VorpelSword said:
And off we gol on oil . . . .
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We’re just trying to help prove your point… I thought this is what you wanted.?.?
Also, the oil we put in our vehicles is filthy straight out of the jug when it’s brand new.
 
Thread title seems oddly reminiscent of former member Filthrum and his motor oil casserole/salad pics with plastic visqueen and all that glow in the dark Chernobyl paraphernalia...

Closest thing I've got with knives and motor oil.

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Listen, me? See, what I prefer is a good, tough carbon steel, from 1075 to K390. I like the colors turning to the grey patina that will not rust. Fact is... Steels like M390 from MT is a good tough steel, geometry helps but it hass not failed me in any task, so see... I am thinking about giving particle stainless a try... 20CV, S90V, as they do not seem to chip in light office work....

But, M4 is my most carried steel, follered by Cruwear. I also always carry a Kruppbladed SAK, tuff. And a beater... I LOVE tough stainless... 12c26, 14c28, AUS10a, AEB-L, 440c or hc (whichever is the easy to sharpen) and ofc Krupsteel. Good simple steel.

I want to learn more so I can like, regrind Rex 45 like zap.

I always carry a stainless pocket prybar. 12 bucks and curved. Wonder what the steel is. But .. I carry something like.. SAK is mandatory and I have a lot to pick from.

1. So SAK...usually a 91mm with three or four layers, sometimes five... Sometimes a 81 or my favored 74mm Explorer. Usually with my white Finnish designs or red.

2. small thin blade that is fast for cutting small stuff fast! Usually UTX75 by MT but could be a Dragonfly wharnie or Chaparral...

3. Main pocketknife - Maple Cruwear PM2, Rez45 Native, 4V para3, K390 police 4, AD20.5, Spyderco Advocate, David Mary "Travellin' Man" (I just picked that name lol)

(4.)If it's one of thes above then I have a blacked oot Matriarch 2 with a ring or same config Lil Ma.
If it's something like an XHP Espada L, Police 4, Native Chief, Yojumbo or Jimbo for my EDC then I feel it can double as my safety knife. Looking to lighten or smarten my carry and carry more in less of a package.

5. Also a beater like a RAT, K55 Mercator, Douk Douk, Cold Steel GRIK, just tough ass knives. Suuuuper slim and nice. I mean the tough Douk cannot be understand. Carbon or 14c28. Dope
 
What’s this guy doing talking about knives in an oil thread? We don’t stand for that here on OilForums.com.

Parker
 
ibute21 said:
This is my first. My wife grew up with Toyotas and she likes them, but she drives a GMC currently. I picked up the Tacoma in November 2021 since they were the only brand not being marked up by the dealer locally. It’s a good truck, definitely different from the Chevys and GMCs I grew up driving.
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Sadly my white runner just got destroyed a couple days ago by a drunk driver. It did it's job, and saved my daughter from any injury.

Great rigs.

4E0880C1-E677-491F-9826-3A390230DF8A.jpegA2AFC488-A27C-4BD4-86ED-42985AD17B25.jpeg85B41DDB-041A-41CE-B0E5-C40467382AEC.jpeg66C98F1B-CE97-4757-8BD3-AFD9A6CFFF8C.jpeg
 
Speaking of the most wear on an engine is during startup, how about these newer vehicles that turn the engine off at every stop light. That can't be the greatest thing for wear on an engine? More technology that is harmful to an engine, one would think.
 
Moving to Gadgets and Gear, as the preponderance of the posts are about engine oil.
 
I don't think synthetic steel is a thing. CPM-Syntec?

I've been using synthetic motor oil for 20+ years myself. Started with Royal Purple in my 1992 Camaro RS 305.
 
Listen, me? See, what I prefer is a good, tough carbon steel, from 1075 to K390. I like the colors turning to the grey patina that will not rust. Fact is... Steels like M390 from MT is a good tough steel, geometry helps but it hass not failed me in any task, so see... I am thinking about giving particle stainless a try... 20CV, S90V, as they do not seem to chip in light office work....

But, M4 is my most carried steel, follered by Cruwear. I also always carry a Kruppbladed SAK, tuff. And a beater... I LOVE tough stainless... 12c26, 14c28, AUS10a, AEB-L, 440c or hc (whichever is the easy to sharpen) and ofc Krupsteel. Good simple steel.

I want to learn more so I can like, regrind Rex 45 like zap.

I always carry a stainless pocket prybar. 12 bucks and curved. Wonder what the steel is. But .. I carry something like.. SAK is mandatory and I have a lot to pick from.

1. So SAK...usually a 91mm with three or four layers, sometimes five... Sometimes a 81 or my favored 74mm Explorer. Usually with my white Finnish designs or red.

2. small thin blade that is fast for cutting small stuff fast! Usually UTX75 by MT but could be a Dragonfly wharnie or Chaparral...
3. Main pocketknife - Maple Cruwear PM2, Rez45 Native, 4V para3, K390 police 4, AD20.5, Spyderco Advocate, David Mary "Travellin' Man" (I just picked that name lol)
(4.)If it's one of these then I have a blacked oot Matriarch 2 with a ring or same config Lil Ma.
If it's something like an XHP Espada L, Police 4, Native Chief, then I feel it can double as my safety knife. Looking to lighten kr smarten thekad.
5. Also a beater like a RAT, K55 Mercator, Douk Douk, Cold Steel GRIK, just tough ass knives. Suuuuper slim and nice. I mean the tough Douk cannot be understand. Carbon or 14c28. Dope
 
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Way late to the lube party ...😭

In the olden days , engines were often not built to close tolerance and you needed to carefully follow a break-in ritual .

I guess you could ruin an engine or short the life significantly , if you didn't .

You could definitely see the crud build up on the dipstick on that first oil .

Contrast that with my two Honda Commercial mowers , just small walk behind type, but cost ~$1200 each . Fine machines , worth the price and caring for .



No oil filters at all , but the oil hardly ever showed anything , even from the start . I change it anyway as per the schedule . :)

Car oil , I just change when I don't like how it looks .
 
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Arathol said:
Once you open up the journal clearances you get more slop. More slop means the shaft is kind of bouncing around inside, not good for durability. Proper oil with tight tolerances can provide very good wear characteristics. I've seen some of these "new motors" from Mazda with 250k+ on them that are still running fine.....
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My father owned a garage for over 60 years, I've seen and worked on lots of cars. Many years ago engines would typically last 80k to 100k miles before they needed a rebuild. A rare engine might go 150k. This was in the era where it was common to run just 30 weight oil, then a little while later multi viscosity oils were more common. Oils and additives have improved over the years, but more improvement is possible. Now engines can go twice as far without a rebuild, and twice as long without an oil change. Besides oil I don't know what else has changed. I think engine block materials, crankshafts, bearing materials are the same. Maybe ring materials have improved.

I don't think motor oil and blades is a good combination, even though I've read that Bark River uses it as protection on their blades. Some of my tools that didn't get used frequently were liberally coated with motor oil but it didn't keep them from corroding. I've been told that motor oil doesn't have the protective additives that other types of oils have.

I'm an engineer if that matters, but not an automotive engineer. I'm also not a Toyota fan, I've read their book and I don't like the philosophy of the company. Plus there is the girl that tried to kill me with one.
 
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