My Cold Steel Pipe Hawk Project

racegunner

racegunner

Joined
Aug 28, 2000
Messages
453
Photos posted!
CS_pipehawk1.jpgCS_pipehawk2.jpgCS_pipehawk3.jpg
I still haven't finished drilling out the bowl, but I wanted to get the photos up right away. Let me know what you think.

I refinished a Cold Steel Rifleman's hawk last year, but found it on the heavy side for what I wanted, so I just purchased a Cold Steel Pipe Hawk. It has no functional bowl...more of a faux hawk, a poll hawk dressed up to look like a pipe hawk. But I really wanted a user and love the looks of a pipe hawk, so this is perfect for me. Head size was what I was looking for, right length, right weight. I drilled out the bowl to make it look more like a real pipe hawk, not all the way through to the eye. I took out the set-screw and stuck in a cap screw M6-1.00x20, hack sawed off the extra so it is flush and staked it to fill the hole.
Haft is longer than I expected, 22 inches. I rounded the bottom, used a propane torch to scorch the top and bottom. Rubbed on some Solar Lux dye stain, Medium walnut over a light coat of blood red (could have left off the red). Then a coat of boiled linseed oil. I have a curly maple haft for it, but the trial haft turned out so nice I'm keeping it as is and saving the maple for later. Also impressed how the Solarlux dye made the plain Jane hickory look like it has some nice grain.

I have some Laurel Mountain Forge Rust Brown on order. I plan to do a rust blue with that. I have some antiqued brass tacks I will stick in the haft to finish it, three rows of three near the head based on some historical relics I've seen. Total investment of about $45 includes the Rust Brown. I had the stain, tacks and oil already.
-Brian
 
Last edited:
Becareful what you smoke out of. I know some metals release toxic gases when heated up.
Cool idea though !!!
 
Looking forward to pics! I also really enjoy working on CS hawks. Just sold one I did to a buddy of mine who really liked it, so need to pick up a spike hawk I think as the next project.

Bit of advice, you may need to drill small holes for the tacks. I found out the hard way that the ones I had weren't strong enough to drive into the handle.
 
Yes, I plan to drill pilot holes for the tacks. I did it on the Rifleman's hawk. I figured brass is no match for ash or hickory. I will also not be smoking out of this...smoke makes me weeze :) plus it's a blind hole, mostly for looks but it will lighten it up a touch if noticeable. thanks for the comments!
 
Thanks for the info on what you did to the set screw hole. I have been contemplating what to do to the set screw hole on the spike hawk I just finished moding. I am anxious to see the rust brown finish on the metal. I am considering the brown for my next project.
 
I plan to use the Rust Brown to Rust BLUE the head. Similar process, but using boiling distilled water during the process. Should turn out almost black. I'm getting anxious :)
Also the Laurel Mountain Forge Rust Brown is non-toxic. Haven't tried it yet, but heard good things over the Birchwood Casey Brown.
 
Nice. I have a rifleman I have been throwing for about a decade.

I also have a Norse Hawk that I throw.

I have been eying the Pipe hawk and the spike hawk for some time!

The Rifleman is a heavy beast, but so great for throwing. The greater weight makes for a more repeatable thrower I have found.
 
Just finished rust Blueing the head tonight. I'll just pop in some antiqued brass tacks and post up some photos tomorrow (God willing and the creek don't rise).
The Laurel Mtn Forge rust works well if a bit optimistic. Was plenty humid here over the weekend and the first application time of 3 to 24 hours really did need the full 24 and I'd say go the full 12 for the second or more. I really have to learn to be patient... but the results are great. Can't complain. Stay tuned. Same bat time same bat channel :)
 
worthless_without_pic.gif



_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

My two camp:D:thumbup:


I smooth out my Pipe and Trail Hawks

NEC_0409.jpg




After sharpening progress & cold bluing


NEC_0420.jpg


NEC_0421.jpg


NEC_0423.jpg


NEC_0426.jpg


NEC_0432.jpg
 
Nice looking Hawk:eek:
I was wondering if you can take apart after you put the pins on the handle?
 
I was wondering about the brown solution. I have used the Plumb Brown by Birchwood in the past. Just heat and apply. Could you say more on the toxic aspect of it? Just curious. You hawk turned out great. I like the color of the wood.
 
Loosearrow said:
I was wondering about the brown solution. I have used the Plumb Brown by Birchwood in the past. Just heat and apply. Could you say more on the toxic aspect of it? Just curious. You hawk turned out great. I like the color of the wood.
Click to expand...

I can't really comment on the Birchwood Casey Plum brown except I've used it before and I prefer the Laurel Mtn Forge Brown. You don't have to heat it (for a brown), it's its own degreaser so you don't have to worry about handling the piece with gloves and I've heard it's very durable. My hawk turned out darker than it appears in the photos. But when the instructions say 3-24 hours for the first application, I would go with the full 24. Maybe it would work faster on the smooth steel of a rifle barrel, but I've found hawks take a little longer than I expect to finish or patina....I'm not a patient man when it comes to projects, but I'm getting better.

As far as the wood goes, my tastes keep changing. I used to like the deep reddish tones, but for hawk hafts I sort of like the plain hickory with scorching and oil...the solution is to have some of both :)
 
100_1039.jpg

100_1123.jpg

You can change the screw hole to a different shape with needle files and fill with pewter, then polish. I use Brownell's dicropan blue and rub out with 0000 steel wool as my finish. I complete my polishing, thoroughly wash in warm soapy water, rinse in warm water, then apply the blueing per directions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top