My fallkniven F1 experience + questions

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Mar 4, 2010
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So after months of trying to find the perfect emergency hiking/camping knife, I settled on the F1. Wrapped the zytel sheath with some 550, and stowed it in my pack.

This weekend my Lady and I went for a decently long and strenuous hike/trail camp. I never would have thought I would need to use any knife, except my swiss army this weekend. The F1 was supposed to stay in the pack, all nice and new and shiny, only for emergencies...or so I thought...

Without re-telling the whole boring story, the following occurred:

1. we had to use designated firewood, were not allowed to gather

2. we had to use a designated fire pit, which is sunk into the ground, designed to put fires out/keep them small, and was wet in the bottom (found this out later).

3. The firewood we had to use, was wet (just barely)

4. we lit 4 fires, which kept going out


Basically, I just couldn't get any larger wood to burn. Due to the firepit, and the wood, the fire would just burn itself out after 10-15 minutes. There was another set of hikers camping nearby, so we stopped by to inquire how they had managed to keep their fire going, and asked if they had used lighter fluid. It was so wet, so I figured some accelerant had to have been used. When we asked they replied in a really snide way "Just basic fire starting skills."

I'll admit, at this point my ego was feeling smashed. I had never had so hard of a time starting a fire in my life...

Well my Lady was hungry, and wanted to make smores. It wasn't cold out (about 45 degrees) and we had a nice tent and sleeping bags set up. We also had food that didn't require cooking, so it's not like this was a survival situation. But this was a bummed out lady situation, which I'm sure some of you can relate to...a different kind of survival?

Anway, the long and short of it is, after exhausting all our man made tinder (she even broke the cardinal rule when I wasn't looking, and tossed our friggin MAP in!), and even moving to a lighter instead of a firesteel...

I finally decided to break out my virgin Fallkniven F1. I proceeded to use the F1 to baton through a bunch of wood (first time batoning with a knife, ever) and make a ton of kindling, and shavings for tinder. FYI this was no easy task having never split wood without a hatchet before in my entire life..my hands are still sore, and I can't imagine how I would have gotten it done had I not had the thermorun to cushion the blows.

I got the fire built, it held long enough to cook our food and make smores. About this time we made a trip to the stream for water, looked over, and saw that the other campers fire had gone out, and all 6 of them were scurrying to get it re-lit. They never accomplished that.

After cooking, we decided to turn in as the fire died down, finally giving up. I threw some of the lightly charred logs back in that I had pulled out earlier, just for safetys sake to have them in the pit, and we made another water run before bed.

Low an behold, we came back, and WHAM...our burned out fire had turned into a BLAZE, of almost unsafe proportions. I guess we dried out the bottom of that damn fire pit, and got to the dry wood with the knife.

The fire burned furiously for about 7 hours, providing lots of warmth and romance for our little camp site. The funniest part is, my lady who was previously beyond bored when it comes to anything knife related, and not understanding why I would pack such a tool...after now having whittled her own cooking sticks, and seeing what a knife can do when you want to cook and its pitch dark...

Now she wants a knife of her own!

So heres my questions:

1) The Fallkniven came razor sharp. While it is now still sharp enough to cut paper (barely, but still amazing given how much wood I chopped and shaved), it is not shaving sharp, and has some very tiny chips on the edge. What is the best way to sharpen this back to a FACTORY edge? I have never sharpened this knife before...I've already read up on the mousepad method etc, but will that restore it to a factory Fallkniven edge? It sounds like the F1 isn't a full convex from the factory?

2) My f1 is now scratched up to hell...is there a way to polish the scratches out, or should I just consider it a war wound patina?

3) The thermorun came off in a couple spots near the spine of the blade...do I need to fill it in so it doesnt rot or dry out?

4) What knife should I buy the lady? She likes the size of the Izula, but her and I both agree that the Fallkniven (even after being chipped and dulled) cuts things (especially wood) much much better than the Izula.

5) What kind of hatchet can I buy? Looking for something with good chopping abilities, that is light weight, and easy to pack.


FYI, it didn't save my life, but it sure saved the fun on our trip. I will never go hiking/camping without this knife (or another one of similar quality) ever again.

I only wish I could make my knife like new again...:(

=)


FYI things I learned:

If the ground is wet, and your wood is wet, and you can't build a fire outside of a pit, and you don't have some kind of amazing man made tinder, without a knife that can split wood, you are screwed. Also, in that sort of a situation, you can forget using a firesteel to light a fire. From now on, I'll be using a firesteel as a backup only...stormproof lighter here I come. Also, batoning is hard work. I am buying a hatchet for next time when I _know_ I will be splitting wood. Lastly, the spine of the F1 makes sparks way better than the striker included with my firesteel. Also, it seems that the more times you use the spine on a firesteel, the sharper it gets and the better it works.

so new additions to pack will be:

1) storm proof lighter
2) better tinder (even cottonballs arent good enough)
3) some kind of fire paste/fluid
4) axe/hatchet

While I could see in dry weather, in an emergency, using a firesteel and some kind of tinder...honestly in any real emergency Id rather have a lighter. Getting a fire going with wet wood is much harder than I thought.


-Freq
 
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1) The Fallkniven came razor sharp. While it is now still sharp enough to cut paper (barely, but still amazing given how much wood I chopped and shaved), it is not shaving sharp, and has some very tiny chips on the edge. What is the best way to sharpen this back to a FACTORY edge? I have never sharpened a convex knife before...I've read up on the mousepad method etc.

2) My f1 is now scratched up to hell...is there a way to polish the scratches out, or should I just consider it a war wound patina?

3) The thermorun came off in a couple spots near the spine of the blade...do I need to fill it in so it doesnt rot or dry out?

4) What knife should I buy the lady? She likes the size of the Izula, but her and I both agree that the Fallkniven (even after being chipped and dulled) cuts things (especially wood) much much better than the Izula.

5) What kind of hatchet can I buy? Looking for something with good chopping abilities, that is light weight, and easy to pack.

[/B]

-Freq

Answer 1 - http://www.barkriverknives.com/convex.htm

Answer 2 - What have you done to scratch it up to hell? scratches doesn't affect performances.

Answer 3 - Wat have you done to this knife :eek:

Answer 4 - Bark River Gunny,liten bror or necker or Fallkniven Wm1 or another F1

Answer 5 - A Gransfors Bruks or Wetterlings in the size of you're choice.
 
1) The Fallkniven came razor sharp. While it is now still sharp enough to cut paper (barely, but still amazing given how much wood I chopped and shaved), it is not shaving sharp, and has some very tiny chips on the edge. What is the best way to sharpen this back to a FACTORY edge? I have never sharpened a convex knife before...I've read up on the mousepad method etc.

2) My f1 is now scratched up to hell...is there a way to polish the scratches out, or should I just consider it a war wound patina?

3) The thermorun came off in a couple spots near the spine of the blade...do I need to fill it in so it doesnt rot or dry out?

4) What knife should I buy the lady? She likes the size of the Izula, but her and I both agree that the Fallkniven (even after being chipped and dulled) cuts things (especially wood) much much better than the Izula.

5) What kind of hatchet can I buy? Looking for something with good chopping abilities, that is light weight, and easy to pack.
-Freq

1. Previous poster gave excellent advice.
2. Don't you dare. Now you have a real knife, and those scratches are called "character" and "memories". Hey honey, remember that hike where it was really wet? :D If you shine it up, it will cut you on purpose on your next trip.
3. Thermorun won't rot, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to fill it in, I'd email Fallkniven and ask them. You can "heal" small cuts in Respirene C with a match, don't know if thermorun can also be fixed that way. Someone smarter than me will chime in here soon.
4. Take a look at all of Fallkniven, Spyderco, and Bark River offerings. There's bound to be something that she likes.
5. Both Gransfor Bruks and Wetterlings have nice hatchets for not a lot of coin.
 
You seem to be pretty hard on your stuff. You might want to try a knife where the tang is exposed. That way when you beat the fire out of it, you won't bust off the coating.
 
Get a hold of some Fatwood. It will help a lot to get the fire going.

Mouse pad and sandpaper works great for convex edges. Finish it up with leather strop and you're good to go. If edge is badly damaged (sounds like yours is not) you could repair it sharpening knife to a V grind using some more aggressive stones and then round it up back to convex.

I wouldn't worry about scratches. They can be polished out, but it is a waste of time if you're planning on using your knife on regular basis. Just let them be.
Also, when you will be sharpening your knife, you might get rid of some bad scratches.

Do not hit the thermorun handle (or any handle) then batonning and you won't have any problems with it.

Show your lady a bunch of good knives (from BRKT, Fallkniven, ESEE etc) and let her choose what she wants. Steel, grind, etc are important, but it is better to let her decide which one she likes most. Performance will not be very different, especially if her knife won't be used too much.
 
Less expensive fairly bulletproof hatchet is the Estwing 24a model available in many hardware stores. Hnadle can't break under normal use and even abuse.

Fallkniven DC4 hone use the diamond side to remove the chips and put on a micro bevel, Then finish on the ceramic side. You can then polish the edge on a strop with green compound if you want though it isn't a neccesity.

If you would like a blade with more real estate for batonning then look into the Fallkniven S1. That way you may not wind up tearing up the handle. Personaly I always take a couple knives one of which is larger for batonning etc and a smaller knife (F1 or a couple others) for fine work. A hatchet can serve the same roll, and can also be batonned.
 
What did I do to my knife?

I used it to baton through wood...

It was dark, I don't see how you could baton through wood and NOT scratch up the blade? Also, the thermorun dented more easily that I would think.

Also the fallkniven DOES have an exposed tang...does anyone on this thread actually own the knife?

Also: regarding fatwood, I had some that we found on the trail. It burned nicely, but nothing would keep burning.

I think Dag-Nabit was saying that the F1 has a microbevel, so why would I sharpen it the same way a person sharpens a full convex bark river?

-Freq
 
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What knife should I buy the lady? She likes the size of the Izula, but her and I both agree that the Fallkniven (even after being chipped and dulled) cuts things (especially wood) much much better than the Izula.



-Freq

You're right. The Fallkniven would cut better, so I would go with the smallest Northern Lights (if $$$ is no issue) or, check out the most excellent Bark River Pro Scalpel, Highland Special, Woodland Special, Gunny, etc.
 
Mine came with a convex edge and I've kept it that way... basically, sharpen 'backwards'; instead of stroking forward on the stone (as if cutting a shallow slice off it), do it hte other way, with the sharpened edge trailing. Do a search on Bladeforums and you'll come across some excellent sketches. No magic. Start with a coarse hone and work those chips out. I wouldn't worry about the handle at all. F1's are designed for hard use.
 
Get the F1 with the Micarta handle. Much tougher, or get one of the Bark River custom F1's if you can still find them. DLT had them awhile back. Bark River took some F1 blanks and put nice handles on them, including a few with Micarta and G10 scales.
 
on iphone keepingit short: Great story my friend!!! love it! glad to hear you like it. you used it allright and saved the day (and night prbbly ;))
 
What did I do to my knife?

I used it to baton through wood...

It was dark, I don't see how you could baton through wood and NOT scratch up the blade? Also, the thermorun dented more easily that I would think.

Also the fallkniven DOES have an exposed tang...does anyone on this thread actually own the knife?

Also: regarding fatwood, I had some that we found on the trail. It burned nicely, but nothing would keep burning.

I think Dag-Nabit was saying that the F1 has a microbevel, so why would I sharpen it the same way a person sharpens a full convex bark river?

-Freq

whoa, hold on I don't think they're saying you did wrong, more teasing. And batoning to most people means hitting only the blade sticking through the log, not the handle. By exposed tang they mean on top of the knife, not sticking out the end, reference the ESEE cutlery knives. On the micro bevel issue, The micro bevel is only for ease of maintenance, I believe fallknivens are full convex, but if not, if I had one, I would convex it for ease of maintenance( for me, I can get sandpaper/leather cheaper than a stone)
Hope this helps!
 
Your knife is a tool. Do you worry about scratches in your screwdriver? Or hammer?

Just use it!

As for a knife for your lady. Try a Bark River Bravo Necker. About the same size as the Izula, but with scales on, it feels much better in the hand. Plus, it has the wonderful convex grind.

You should consider posting this thread in the Wilderness and Survival section of this forum. Lot's of F1 nuts there. Me included!
 
the tutorial that helped me the most w/ convex edges is the set of videos posted on knives ship free (done by a member of this forum :))

for small chips your going to be starting off a little coarser than normal

I wouldn't worry about scratches- it's a user, it will get scratched

for your wife, if you like the F1, the WM1 would be a good choice- evidently designed specifically for a woman (hence the WM) I own two and they are fast becoming favorites :D

if you have to get a fire going (you'll still need decently dry kindling)- wetfire cubes are dandies- there is video around that shows the cube on fire floating in a cup of water :) I demonstrated to a class one that I lit and put on a bank of snow- it burned great for over a full minute before burning itself out
 
Yeah, I didn't damage the thermorun on the handle from batoning it, I demaged it because as I was batonning, it rubed against the log. It was hard for me to keep the knife straight, so I guess I kinda blew it.

The bravo necker and wm1 are interesting for sure.

FYI I had no problem lighting the tinder, or even getting the kindling to burn, it was getting the larger wood to keep burning. I probably just needed a ton more kindling.


-Freq
 
Bark River Bravo 1!!! Done..maybe! I am a big fan of Fallkniven but the Bravo 1 is really a great knife. Superior handle, excellent thickness, great grind, I also like the RAT RC4 alot...maybe more. Gonna order one as well.. I like to have 2 knives in the same size category for backup...knowing RAT's warranty...no worries. I have seen that knife take a beating! The grip is nice, the choil is nice, the sheath is nice, and the micarta is nice (something I didnt think I would be that big of a fan of). I think the Fallkniven is an excellent knife however the finger guard is small. The steel is awesome!!! Stainless with strength and edge retention. All 3 are so good it is hard to choose! Only hang up I have with the F1 is the finger guard is small, no choil and the sheath...it sucks! I do like the steel the strength and as for the grip...it is a sticky shock absorbing beauty. It does have its hot spots and is a little smallish but it is still decent enough. Like I said this is a tight category. I think the Bravo 1 and the RC4 are every bit as good.

If you want maneuverability from a choil, a great sheath and the best warranty...thinner blade for carver fine work yet can take a beating and still baton...do the RC4

If you are going to be near water want on of the toughest blades with a shock absorbing grip...F1

If you want the best handle, strongest blade, thumb serrations for leverage the Bark River.

I like the Bark better than F1 and to be honest the RC4 might be my favorite...it lacks the strength but remember it is a 4-4 1/2" the RC4 thickness is suitable yet better for fine work than both. Plus the warranty!!! It is really awesome...neither even come close!
 
Your knife is a tool. Do you worry about scratches in your screwdriver? Or hammer?

Just use it!

As for a knife for your lady. Try a Bark River Bravo Necker. About the same size as the Izula, but with scales on, it feels much better in the hand. Plus, it has the wonderful convex grind.

You should consider posting this thread in the Wilderness and Survival section of this forum. Lot's of F1 nuts there. Me included!

maybe a bit slow but i looked twice and can not find it:eek: help please
 
I have a chimnea which often gets full of soggy wet ash in the dished base. I split some wood down into inch square sticks and lay them flat to make a platform to build the fire on. I think I got the idea from ray mears building fires in a swamp somewhere!!
 
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